box scraper won't dig

[JerryG]

Jerry, what could be wrong with the rest of the 3 pt set-up? I'm not questioning your assessment, I genuinely don't know what else could be wrong. Are you thinking that it might have the wrong lower link arms installed or something like that?

It seems to me that they just put the wrong top link on it.

The dealer could have very easily have mixed up the bottom links or the third arm with parts from a different model. The rockshaft arms could have been installed wrong. There are several things that could be wrong, but there is no way anything should have had to been cut, welded or modified to make it work. If the problem couldn’t be discovered with help from members here, the dealer should have been involved. It just drives me nuts looking at the pictures, because I can't see the top link attachment. I keep trying to scroll up.

 

[evisr8]

Jerry, i sorry about the pictures. when i got back out, i'll take pictures of the toplink and all the contact points. i'll even use another full size toplink and all the possible combinations of pin holes.

 

[dieselsmoke1]

Linkage bar lengths are not a magic standard dimension that I have ever heard of. Some linkage bars have a shorter barrel even within the same catagory. With your issue checking the length of the bar fully retracted and compare to some others would be worthwhile.

 

[greg_g]

for those of you who don't have a MF 1540 and KK box scraper, i challenge you to extend your toplink with box so the scrafiers are floating on the ground, the points on parallel to the ground and the top of the box closest to the tractor is elevated (as in the first "before" picture). see if it will dig. then retract the toplink so the points of the scrarifers are touching and the box is level to the ground (as in the "post1" picture). it will not dig.

Two points: lower lift arms aside, adjustable toplinks are made in several lengths. Did you ever consider just BUYING a shorter one? I gave up this year, tired of keeping several different length toplinks around. Finally broke down and bought a hydraulic toplink. Should done it years ago.

Second point: the scarifiers should have holes in them as well. If they don't reach the ground - or dig as aggressively as you want - pull the pins and drop them down a hole or two.

//greg//

 

[evisr8]

pt 1: i have 2 top links. the one for the 8N is longer and when i tried it on the MF 1540, the elevation of the front of the box increased by a large amount. the dealership was closed the day it happened, so i took the top link to my cut off saw and hacked away. it took me all of 15 minutes.

pt 2: when i initially started, the scarifers were in the 2nd position from the top and it wasn't digging. then i dropped them down to the lowest position. it didn't dig. only after i shortened the toplink this enbabled the front of the box to be level and the scarifers would not float on the ground, but dig as designed.

if anyone has a 1540 with a KK boxer, please chime in.

 

[B8FISH]

Can you extend the draft link arms? On the MF site it says "Extendable draft link ends are standard on all 2006 production model 1533, 1540, 1547, 1552 & 1560 models. Fixed draft link ends are used on the 1523, 1528 & 1531 models." If you extend them more it will effectively shorten the top link. Or what about Pat's EZ change or quick hitch option--both effectively lengthen the link arms?

 

[JerryG]

B8,
Those links are designed to aid in attaching implements. They again shorten and latch when you back up after you get a implement attached. They don't lock in the extend position.

 

[N80]

I'm not sure if 'digging' is the issue to focus on (bear with me). A lot of factors can affect how well a box blade digs. These include the depth of the scarifiers and the angle of the box, but it also depends on the weight of the box, the soil type, etc.

What I would be focusing on is the range through which the box can tilt, not just if it will dig in some specific application. Even if you can get it to dig in that situation, if you don't have a full range of adjustment it might not be useful in other situations.

I can actually 'plow' with mine by tilting the front of the box down so that only the teeth engage the soil.

 

[JerryG]

I'm not sure if 'digging' is the issue to focus on (bear with me). A lot of factors can affect how well a box blade digs. These include the depth of the scarifiers and the angle of the box, but it also depends on the weight of the box, the soil type, etc.

What I would be focusing on is the range through which the box can tilt, not just if it will dig in some specific application. Even if you can get it to dig in that situation, if you don't have a full range of adjustment it might not be useful in other situations.

I can actually 'plow' with mine by tilting the front of the box down so that only the teeth engage the soil.

I agree with what you are saying. I know that from the pictures posted here on TBN there has been some that have had their box tilted to the extreme forward. I can't imagine an instance where that extreme of tilt would be more useful than only 20*. If someone is tilting their box to 40-45*, they need to purchase a different implement. Actually I don't think that I have ever had my box tilted much more than the ones in the above posts. I have no idea how many hours that I have used a box, but it would be several hundred while reworking roads, building pads and leveling areas.
BTW, the compressed length of the third arm for a MF 1250, 1260, 1433 and a 1440 is 18.5”. I am sure that is the correct length for the 1540 also.

 

[N80]

I agree. When I talk about tilting mine forward, that is still probably only about 20 degrees as you mention. At that angle, the rear blade hardly engages the ground at all.

(And I do need a different implement for 'plowing' but I'm making do with what I've got. I used the sacrifiers as described above to till up some food plots and I planted oats 10 days ago and they are already popping up, lush and green.)