Brush Hog question: lean backwards?

[Flatheadyoungin]

I was up to my buddy's last night and he was showing me his new land pride hog- really nice, BTW. Anywho, he was saying something about the hog should lean backwards so that the blade wouldn't impact, say, a stump as it enters the front of the brush hog.....I guess this is how the stump jumper works.

Well, his rakes/leans forward toward the tractor.....he's tried changing the top link adjustment and using the other holes in the top link pivot on the brush hog.

Are brush hogs supposed to lean back?

I looked it over and couldn't see any other adjustment points on the hog.

 

[jbrumberg]

I have had a Woods and 2 Tebben rotary cutters. In both cases the manufacturers recommended that the rear of the cutter (i.e. blade height) should be ~1" - 2" higher making the deck lean forward towards the tractor. Jay

 

[polo1665]

If by leaning back you mean that the rear of the mower should be lower than the front, no that is not correct. The front should be 3/4" (or so) lower than the rear. That's how mine is set up.

Mark

 

[kthompson]

It would seem if the rear side of the blade is lower it will be hitting stuff and kicking out the FRONT where you sure don't want it, cause that is where you and your tractor should be. kt

 

[jinman]

I was up to my buddy's last night and he was showing me his new land pride hog- really nice, BTW. Anywho, he was saying something about the hog should lean backwards so that the blade wouldn't impact, say, a stump as it enters the front of the brush hog.....I guess this is how the stump jumper works.

It sounds like somebody filled your buddy's head full of "smoke and mirrors" about how a stump jumper works. As everyone has pointed out, the front of the cutter should always be slightly lower than the rear.

The stump jumper is there to protect the gearbox. If you had rigid arms coming out of the gearbox to attach to swinging blades. Those arms could impact a stump or big rock and instantly transfer the shock to the gearbox causing it to explode. The blades can flex at the pivot and the dish-shaped stump jumper pan keeps the center portion of the cutter covered and protects the gearbox fixed arms and also the lower seal and bearing. The only thing that can stop blades from hitting stumps is a careful operator or leaving the tractor and cutter in the barn.

 

[RollTideRam]

With the rear lower, you cut everything twice. JC

 

[Soundguy]

Ditto what the others said... a slight lean forward is the way to set it up.

Who told your buddy it needed to lean back?

soundguy

 

[bjcsc]

The way you set it up depends on what you're trying to do. Didn't he get a manual? From the Bush Hog operating Manual:

For best results under heavier cutting conditions, always tilt the cutter approximately 2 inches (51mm) lower in the front. This decreases horsepower requirements and increases potential ground speed. When fine shredding is desired, adjust cutter deck level or slightly lower in the rear. This will keep the foliage under cutter until thoroughly shredded. More power is required for shredding.

 

[SPYDERLK]

With the rear lower, you cut everything twice. JC

Yes. Actually, even worse, you try to cut it many times as each successive blade pass is lower. In the case if cutting small trees and substantial brush this setup will soon damage the mower as the blades are continually wedged upward as the mower tries to cut again with parts of the blade that arent sharpened.
larry

 

[bjcsc]

In the case if cutting small trees and substantial brush this setup will soon damage the mower as the blades are continually wedged upward as the mower tries to cut again with parts of the blade that arent sharpened.
larry

I'm not sure I understand that part...the sharpened side of the blade will always make contact first no matter what the setup is. The rotation would have to reverse for the dull side to lead. What did you mean by that?