Bubba's Basic Barn

/ Bubba's Basic Barn #41  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

That is one nice bank barn. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
I've always wanted to build one, but this land is so flat, a pole barn is the only way to go.
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #42  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Nice Mark! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I sure hope the first picture that showed the completed roof was just off because of lighting, and your roof isn't really pink?? /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Didn't you take any pictures of the upstairs shop and storage loft? Would love to see that too! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #43  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Well thanks for the positive reinforcement fellas I really haven't finished the inside yet ,but I try to get
some pics for ideas sake , Thanks again Mark /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #44  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Golfgar4 Almost forgot NOOOO!! It's not pink, but you knew that...regulation barn red /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #45  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Its not the clay, and if that was true 700 yards of paving would be cracking as bad as yours on my jobsite. There are so many variable that can play in the cracking on your slab. How deep is your slab? Do you have any expansion joints?
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn
  • Thread Starter
#46  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

When I sited the barn, there was a difference of from 1-4' that needed to be built up. they used a pan to scoop up from the back yard and deposit in the barn area. Then they used a sheepsfoot roller to pack it. On top of that is about 6-8" of gravel, then the slab is 4-5" thick with expansion joints. In the front of the barn where there is only about 1' of fill, there are no cracks. In the back of the barn where there is 3-4' of fill is where most of the cracks are. Shortly after they poured the barn we started a drought that lasted into the fall, with only about 1" of rain in that 4-5 month period. I had cracks in the ground that I could slip my hand into clear up to my wrist all over our 23 acres. With that information, can you give me another reason why I have so much cracking? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks,
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #47  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Bubba....... That sure is a nice barn..... being also a car collector, would you like me to come out there and show you how to fill up a garage properly. Ask almost any one here that has seen a picture of my garage if I know how and they will tell you that I am an expert in that field! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Hi Junkman,
Trust me, I know how to fill it, I just have to get the purchase order from the CFO. That is always a challenge, but I think I'm ready for it. I almost bought a 31 Ford Victoria last fall. It was in real nice original driveable condition. But he backed out at the last minute. I may get it yet, as I had the PO from the CFO in hand. I would also like to get a muscle car, like maybe a 68 Charger or an AAR Cuda eventually, along with a Packhard, and maybe a LaSalle. I suffer from the BISW (big ideas, small wallet) syndrome. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #49  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Bubba, you know in our part of the country most homes are built on a slab foundation, and I think every builder tries to do the final grading to provide adequate drainage away from the house, but then also provides written instructions to adequately water around the foundation during dry spells, and that really is necessary to prevent shifting and/or cracking.
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #50  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( After the barn was up I insulated the walls with 6" fiberglass batts, installed horizontal 2x4's, then OSB. )</font>
bubba, the width between the posts inside the barn look to be about 8 feet apart. what kind of insulation did you use? is it the type that is purchased at home depot, or lowes that is 15 or 23 inches wide or did you have to purchase special wide insulation to fit exactly between the posts? did you use some type of vapor barrier? very nice looking building!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #51  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Bubba and Nasty, thanks to both of you for posting your great projects. Nasty, that barn of yours certainly goes well with that spectacular home you have. How considerate of you to make it nice for the wife as well. Nice touch. John
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #52  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Never heard of using gravel as a base. Here we used a thin layer of #2 bank sand and using gravel could be a reason that there are cracks. Could of been many things from not enough rocks in the concrete to rebar not being in center of concrete slab
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn #53  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

wire and / or rebar only keep the concrete from separating if it does crack. It doesn't keep it from cracking. Cracking is caused by many things that are difficult to diagnose unless you can physically inspect the concrete job, the underlying substructure and the installation procedures. All these factors are important to understand why the job failed. My un-educated guess since I am not able to see the job is that the material under the floor being very dry, was not compacted enough and it shifted. Also, if they didn't put down a vapor barrier in the floor before the concrete was poured, the dry powdery material under the floor would have pull the moisture out of the concrete rapidly and that would cause the concrete to fail. Concrete gets its strength by slowly drying or curing being the correct term. The correct way would have been to have kept wetting the top of the floor the following day with a garden hose and to have continued to "watered" the floor for at least 30 days. The floor was sealed and it shouldn't have been done until much later. Watering would have given the floor its maximum strength and longest cure time. Even after 30 days, it will continue to "age" and cure and gather strength. This is why you will see them pour the bridge piers for highways many months in advance of when the steel is to arrive. They are allowing the concrete to cure to maximum strength. Also, if the contractor had the concrete truck drive add additional water to the mix after it left the concrete mixing facility where the proper ratio of sand, stone, and cement were place into the vat then that also will effect the strength. It is called changing the "slump". Adding water to the mix makes the concrete flow easier and the guys putting the floor down, like that. It is easier to move around. It also creates more voids in the concrete when the water evaporates from the mix resulting in a weaker concrete floor. A stiffer mix is a denser mix and a stronger floor. Concrete comes in various grades, 2000#, 2500#, 3000#, 3500#, etc mix. The higher the pound number, the more that it cost. If the job is a contract job based on price, then they order the least expensive concrete that will get the job done. Unfortunately, most home owners don't learn all this until after the job is done. Most people only build once and if they have a bad experience the first time, they don't even want to think of doing it a second time. I was fortunate enough to have worked construction at one time and learned a lot of the trades.
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn
  • Thread Starter
#54  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Hi Bird,
Our house has 2 sump pumps, one connected to an external line around the perimeter of the basement and one connected to the interior perimeter of the basement, and both get pumped to our creek. We also have all our downspouts connected to a seperate line that also goes to the creek. The barn has the downspouts connected together and they tie into the curtain drain that goes around our leach field. The barn also has good drainage all around the perimeter. However this is the first time I have heard about applying water around the edge fo the building. I guess that is because a drought condition isn't that common here. The last one we had was in 1988, so I guess that bit of wisdom is seldom needed here and therefore never given. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn
  • Thread Starter
#55  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Hello, I used rolls of 6" thick by 24" wide kraft backed fibreglass insulation. I got it at cost through my builder from the lumber yard that is part of the construction company. They have basically the same thing at the box stores. What I had to do to be able to handle the process by myself, was to intall spikes every so often to support the insulation while I stapled it to the header and to each other. These spikes (I've forgotten the real name of them) are made with a metal perforated backing about 1.5" square. Then the spike part is welded to it perpendicular to the backing. The spike is about 8" long and it's nailed or screwed to the support and the fiberglass is impaled on it, then for added security I bent the end so the insulation wouldn't fall off. The kraft backing was stapled at the vertical joints and that serves as the moisture barrier. The batts were installed vertically and then I installed horizontal 2x4's to protect myself from the spikes and to support the OSB walls. I would have liked to use the 8' wide fiberglass, but as I was doing all this by myself, there was no way I could handle that much insulation at once.
 
/ Bubba's Basic Barn
  • Thread Starter
#56  
Re: Bubba\'s Basic Barn

Hi Junkman,
From your description I think you pretty much nailed it. There was no vapor barrier under the concrete, and they sealed it later that same day it was poured. The guy was having a terrible time with his sprayer plugging up, so I have patches of sealer 1/16 to 3/32" thick in some places even today. I didn't see anyone add any water to the mix after it was here. Everything moved fairly rapidly without any problems, so they didn't have any delays they had to adjust the consistency for. And of course no one mentioned anything about spraying water on it after is was poured. Of course that wouldn't have done any good with the sealer already on. This crew has lots of experience so I guess they do this same type of job at all the worksites, and probably have similar results. But the strange thing is, that later they poured a patio at our basement walkout and a front sidewalk using the same techniques and they are both in perfect shape. Go figure. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Thanks for the concrete lesson.
 

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