Build A Pond?
- Thread starter ctpres
- Start date
- Views: 122458
Renze
Elite Member
Yes, but you never met the fellow I bought that place from. Common sense definitely wasn't one of his attributes.
Also, digging 4 feet DEEPER and grading the clay back, will increase the cost of the pond quite a bit....
Rowdius
Silver Member
It does add some to it, but not _that_ much, as that he would not have to put all four feet of clay back to seal it. I've lined tanks that started out as sandy gravel with a foot of clay and they are holding water today.
blueriver
Elite Member
- Joined
- Oct 4, 2007
- Messages
- 4,821
- Location
- S.E.Oklahoma
- Tractor
- JD 5520 Montana 4340 Farmall Super A Montana 5720C
Your local county agency ... here it is the NRCS (Natural Resources Conservation Service)
Last edited:
SGBotsford
Bronze Member
I'll emphasize what an earlier poster said:
Give or sell the dirt in the hole.
A local oil field service company was working on the gas well at our place. We had a chat, and he needed 800 cubic yards of fill for remediation on another site. I told him he could have the dirt if he took it form where I said. Two days later a Hitachi track hoe showed up. They pulled 45 dump truck loads of clay out, leaving me a pond that was 14 feet deep in the middle.
In general a tractor is not the right tool for the job. It's really a multi tool job: Here to get any governemtn assistance (33%) it has to be a minimum of 6000 cubic meters, and a minimum of 14 feet deep. For the main hole, get the biggest trackhoe that can fit on a lowboy. Get the operator with it. A good operator will be 10 times as fast as you will be. If the soil is going to be spread nearby, get a cat to do it. Cats are a lot faster as spreading.
Around here, you'd better seed the dirt pile to something, otherwise it will be thistles and nettles. Annual rye and good pasture mix. If all your top soil ends underneath, start out with a legume like hairy vetch.
Lot to be said for deep and shallow spots. A cattail fringe will help keep small kids out, or at least keep them from dying. If the inlet area has a large shallow zone of cattail, it will filter excess nutrients out of the water, reducing the algae and pond weed. It also will settle out a lot of dirt during spring runoff.
Try to keep organic matter from falling in. (leaves/sticks) This aggravates the pond weed problem, and the decomposition drops the Oxygen levels if you have fish.
If it isn't exposed to much wind, adding some form of aeration will keep the fish happier and reduce the scum problem.
If you are on a stream bed, then put another very shallow pond upstream. It will only fill for 3-4 weeks during spring runoff or during heavy rain fall periods, but it can act as a pre-filter to keep the big pond clean. Leakage from it can keep the big pond full if you have a long summer.
Carrying this idea further, a chain of ponds up the creek.
To minimize the distance dirt is moved, use all the dirt you dig OUT of the hole as material for the dam. In this case you probably want a sheep's foot roller. Dams need to be well packed. Having a drain pipe will make it easier to drain the pond for digging, fixing leaks and so on.
Warning: In our province, DIY dams can be no more than 6 feet high. More than that requries another permit, a design approval signed by an engineer, and periodic inspection. For some reason the authorities have a dim view of 20 foot high walls of water sweeping over the county roads. Go Figure.
Give or sell the dirt in the hole.
A local oil field service company was working on the gas well at our place. We had a chat, and he needed 800 cubic yards of fill for remediation on another site. I told him he could have the dirt if he took it form where I said. Two days later a Hitachi track hoe showed up. They pulled 45 dump truck loads of clay out, leaving me a pond that was 14 feet deep in the middle.
In general a tractor is not the right tool for the job. It's really a multi tool job: Here to get any governemtn assistance (33%) it has to be a minimum of 6000 cubic meters, and a minimum of 14 feet deep. For the main hole, get the biggest trackhoe that can fit on a lowboy. Get the operator with it. A good operator will be 10 times as fast as you will be. If the soil is going to be spread nearby, get a cat to do it. Cats are a lot faster as spreading.
Around here, you'd better seed the dirt pile to something, otherwise it will be thistles and nettles. Annual rye and good pasture mix. If all your top soil ends underneath, start out with a legume like hairy vetch.
Lot to be said for deep and shallow spots. A cattail fringe will help keep small kids out, or at least keep them from dying. If the inlet area has a large shallow zone of cattail, it will filter excess nutrients out of the water, reducing the algae and pond weed. It also will settle out a lot of dirt during spring runoff.
Try to keep organic matter from falling in. (leaves/sticks) This aggravates the pond weed problem, and the decomposition drops the Oxygen levels if you have fish.
If it isn't exposed to much wind, adding some form of aeration will keep the fish happier and reduce the scum problem.
If you are on a stream bed, then put another very shallow pond upstream. It will only fill for 3-4 weeks during spring runoff or during heavy rain fall periods, but it can act as a pre-filter to keep the big pond clean. Leakage from it can keep the big pond full if you have a long summer.
Carrying this idea further, a chain of ponds up the creek.
To minimize the distance dirt is moved, use all the dirt you dig OUT of the hole as material for the dam. In this case you probably want a sheep's foot roller. Dams need to be well packed. Having a drain pipe will make it easier to drain the pond for digging, fixing leaks and so on.
Warning: In our province, DIY dams can be no more than 6 feet high. More than that requries another permit, a design approval signed by an engineer, and periodic inspection. For some reason the authorities have a dim view of 20 foot high walls of water sweeping over the county roads. Go Figure.
Based on input from TBN University faculty (Y'all) I decided to Go 4 It. 1. Reduced size to 1/4 to 1/5 acre. 2. Changed location from rear of property to nearer house with layout based on best line of sight from house. 3. Added option to bring in heavy equipment if/when I get tired or run out of time. 4. Give some dirt to neighbors (they come get it) to reduce work.
Bacically am going to dig a very shallow ditch deeper and wider. Currently: getting rid of trees and major roots, removing top foot or so of top soil for use around property and defining size an shape of finished project. Retired 1/1/2010 and now have time. Will post pic's from time to time as work progresses
Bacically am going to dig a very shallow ditch deeper and wider. Currently: getting rid of trees and major roots, removing top foot or so of top soil for use around property and defining size an shape of finished project. Retired 1/1/2010 and now have time. Will post pic's from time to time as work progresses
Attachments
jinman
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2001
- Messages
- 20,387
- Location
- Texas - Wise County - Sunset
- Tractor
- NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee
Ctpres, it sounds and looks like you've got it going. Congratulations on your retirement.
You sure have a pretty place with nice trees. A nice pond in there would be very cool.
You sure have a pretty place with nice trees. A nice pond in there would be very cool.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
CONGRATULATIONS !!!!!
With lots of time on your hands, digging your pond will be just about the most fun you can have. Of course, it might seem like work while you're doing it, but it's not. When you feel wore out, take a break, but never quit digging and moving dirt until it's where you want it to be. The only regret that anybody ever has with a pond is that it's not big enough. No pond ever is!! Figure out the maximum size that you can make it, and keep at it until you get it to that point. If it takes all year, or five years, it's better to take the time then to have any regrets.
Enjoy,
Eddie
Bartcephus
Gold Member
Ponds.... I just love those "tanks" of water. I found out that sometimes having a pond close to a house in a rural area can lower your homeowner's insurance premiums if it is accessable to a fire engine pumper. Good thought on getting it closer to the house!
Hey Eddie,
I'm only two hours away in Texarkana! Your lake is BEAUTIFUL. If your ever up this way let me know.
Hey Eddie,
I'm only two hours away in Texarkana! Your lake is BEAUTIFUL. If your ever up this way let me know.
FortClatsop
Silver Member
- Joined
- Mar 18, 2006
- Messages
- 110
- Tractor
- 2006 JD 2305, X540, X324, 314, 316/33 tiller
Here we go again. Just when my slough starts feeling good about itself again it's fragile self image is over taken by another case of pond envy.
I do love these threads. Keep us posted.
I do love these threads. Keep us posted.
