building a rake

[DanielAlexander]

rake frame

 

[DanielAlexander]

rake frame

 

[DanielAlexander]

main frame beam

 

[DanielAlexander]

main frame beam

 

[DanielAlexander]

drilling pivot plate

 

[DanielAlexander]

drilling pivot plate

 

[DanielAlexander]

modeled after A&B rear blade main frame

 

[DanielAlexander]

modeled after A&B rear blade main frame

 

[EddieWalker]

Daniel,

You're doing some really nice work there!!!

Are you copying an already existing rake?

I've been looking at them myself and don't understand why they all pivot?? Is there an advantage to this?

I'm wondering how much easier and cheaper it woudl be to make one that didn't pivot.

Where are you getting the teeth or fingers, or whatever the spring steel is called that makes contact with the ground?

How much?

Thanks
Eddie

 

[EddieWalker]

Daniel,

You're doing some really nice work there!!!

Are you copying an already existing rake?

I've been looking at them myself and don't understand why they all pivot?? Is there an advantage to this?

I'm wondering how much easier and cheaper it woudl be to make one that didn't pivot.

Where are you getting the teeth or fingers, or whatever the spring steel is called that makes contact with the ground?

How much?

Thanks
Eddie

 

[MadReferee]

For a reference, here are some pics of the 72" rake with 3pt hitch I made a few years ago. It uses standard tines I purchased from Agri-Supply. The gauge wheels are adjustable up/down and back/front.

Fabrication was pretty easy for me since I have a milling machine and large mig welder. Yes, drilling al the holes was a tedious time consuming job but well worth it in the end.

 

[MadReferee]

For a reference, here are some pics of the 72" rake with 3pt hitch I made a few years ago. It uses standard tines I purchased from Agri-Supply. The gauge wheels are adjustable up/down and back/front.

Fabrication was pretty easy for me since I have a milling machine and large mig welder. Yes, drilling al the holes was a tedious time consuming job but well worth it in the end.

 

[MadReferee]

Here is another.

 

[MadReferee]

Here is another.

 

[PineRidge]

Mad with all the flex that a typical landscape rake does while using it did you ever consider square or rectangular steel tube for the frame that holds the tines?

 

[PineRidge]

Mad with all the flex that a typical landscape rake does while using it did you ever consider square or rectangular steel tube for the frame that holds the tines?

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( with all the flex that a typical landscape rake does while using it did you ever consider square or rectangular steel tube for the frame that holds the tines? )</font>

No, but I did consider 4" x 4" x 1/4" angle. I ended up using 5" x 3/8" flat bar.

As it turned out, there is a litle bit of noticeable flex up and down but the addition of the 2 holes for each of the tines stiffens everything up. There is no front to back flex at all and that flat bar will not bend front to back (along the flat axis) if you back into something. I reparied a friends Woods rake that uses 4" angle that was backed into something and bent rather easily front to back (see attached pic).

In my opinion, some flex is good, too much is no good. I have literally beat that rake to death over the past 3 years with no problems at all.

I also think my 2-pin design for the pivot lock is superior to the typical 1-pin design. I get 15 and 30 degrees of angle in both directions with no play at all. Single pin pivot locks can have significant play depending on design and placement.

 

[MadReferee]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( with all the flex that a typical landscape rake does while using it did you ever consider square or rectangular steel tube for the frame that holds the tines? )</font>

No, but I did consider 4" x 4" x 1/4" angle. I ended up using 5" x 3/8" flat bar.

As it turned out, there is a litle bit of noticeable flex up and down but the addition of the 2 holes for each of the tines stiffens everything up. There is no front to back flex at all and that flat bar will not bend front to back (along the flat axis) if you back into something. I reparied a friends Woods rake that uses 4" angle that was backed into something and bent rather easily front to back (see attached pic).

In my opinion, some flex is good, too much is no good. I have literally beat that rake to death over the past 3 years with no problems at all.

I also think my 2-pin design for the pivot lock is superior to the typical 1-pin design. I get 15 and 30 degrees of angle in both directions with no play at all. Single pin pivot locks can have significant play depending on design and placement.

 

[DanielAlexander]

Eddie, thanks, the rake is my design developed from research on the internet, studying manufactured rakes and with the help of MadReferee, he has been an inspiration.This is my first tractor, the only thing I know about tractors is what I have learned on TBN. As far as pivoting the rake,I believe it would push the debris off to the sidein a line to pick it up with the bucket or keep moving it over in a big pile.I think it would be worth making it pivot.The tines I purchased from Agri-Supply(Thanks MadReferee)

 

[DanielAlexander]

Eddie, thanks, the rake is my design developed from research on the internet, studying manufactured rakes and with the help of MadReferee, he has been an inspiration.This is my first tractor, the only thing I know about tractors is what I have learned on TBN. As far as pivoting the rake,I believe it would push the debris off to the sidein a line to pick it up with the bucket or keep moving it over in a big pile.I think it would be worth making it pivot.The tines I purchased from Agri-Supply(Thanks MadReferee)