Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
- Thread starter LetsRoll
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DiskDoctr
Platinum Member
These are good guys, very smart.
Find complete plans available here:
Murphy's Machines - Waste Oil Heater Plans
- DD
Find complete plans available here:
Murphy's Machines - Waste Oil Heater Plans
- DD
OP
LetsRoll
Gold Member
Yes, I took them down for safety reasons. My burner was not safe.
But, I've put up some new videos of my newest burner.
YouTube - OLetsRoll's Channel
OP
LetsRoll
Gold Member
Well Cliff, first of all many thanks for taking the time to detail your experience and share it online. That is one fine piece of workmanship. Only one problem. Now I HAVE to build one. But I do have some questions for you. Actually a lot of questions.
First about your funnel. Is it just butted up tight to the air tube?
The little door on your burn tube, I assume is just so the flame is directed to the back of the furnace yes?
What is the distance between the two barrels?
Do you think that the two barrels could be shorter than the 3 footers that you used?
You say your burn tube is 20 inches with the three inch pipe in the center. What is the distance from the center of that pipe to the front of the stove?
I like your stack and how it's cemented to the ground. I also live in a very high wind area. What is the thickness of the 8 inch pipe you used for your stack?
I noticed you have no cleanout for your top barrel, unless it's on the back. Are you still going to add one or do you think it's unnecesary?
Last question, for now at least. On a low burn, approximatly how much oil do you think you are burning per hour?
I just recently got hold of 24 feet of the same 24 inch gas pipe that you used. I'm going to use 14 feet for a land roller and was wondering what to do with the rest. Well, now I know.
But I do have some questions for you. Actually a lot of questions.First about your funnel. Is it just butted up tight to the air tube?
The little door on your burn tube, I assume is just so the flame is directed to the back of the furnace yes?
What is the distance between the two barrels?
Do you think that the two barrels could be shorter than the 3 footers that you used?
You say your burn tube is 20 inches with the three inch pipe in the center. What is the distance from the center of that pipe to the front of the stove?
I like your stack and how it's cemented to the ground. I also live in a very high wind area. What is the thickness of the 8 inch pipe you used for your stack?
I noticed you have no cleanout for your top barrel, unless it's on the back. Are you still going to add one or do you think it's unnecesary?
Last question, for now at least. On a low burn, approximatly how much oil do you think you are burning per hour?
I just recently got hold of 24 feet of the same 24 inch gas pipe that you used. I'm going to use 14 feet for a land roller and was wondering what to do with the rest. Well, now I know.
OP
LetsRoll
Gold Member
Well Cliff, first of all many thanks for taking the time to detail your experience and share it online. That is one fine piece of workmanship. Only one problem. Now I HAVE to build one. But I do have some questions for you. Actually a lot of questions.
Train, thanks for the compliment.
First about your funnel. Is it just butted up tight to the air tube?
Yes it is. That funnel was made out of a cap off a welding bottle (shielding gas for mig welder). I just cut the end off and drilled holes on each side. Welded nuts over each hole and screwed a bolt into the nut. Also used another nut to lock the bolt. The hole were the air and oil comes out of, is 1 inch in diameter. 1 inch hole was enough to allow the funnel to compress the air. My blower motor has enough volume of air, but I need to compress or localize the air it so that it would atomize the oil. This acts like a fuel injector so to speak. Its hard to see in the video's, but seeing it in person. The oil comes out about 1.5 inchs and as it enters the top tube on the burner, the oil patterns out (kind of like a umbrella , like this--->/\ ). The inside of the tube acts like a vortex. The air entering the burner, swirls inside. This also helps to atomize the oil.
The little door on your burn tube, I assume is just so the flame is directed to the back of the furnace yes?
That door is for cleaning and preheating the burner. That door allows me to to clean the inside of the burner. I also use it for when I pour 4 ounces of diesel in it to help preheat the burner. I was using 1 ounce of oil and shreaded paper. But the paper would burn up to fast. The burner has to reach 375 degree (F) before I turn the oil on. The paper just burnt up before the burner reached that temperature. 4 ounces of diesel would get the burner up to 500 degrees (F). Oil take allot of heat to effectively burn proper (clean burn).
What is the distance between the two barrels?
I think its 7 inchs between the two barrels.
Do you think that the two barrels could be shorter than the 3 footers that you used?
Yes, the barrels could be shorter. I went with 3 feet cause I thought if burning waste oil did not work out or was to much work. I could convert it over to burning fire wood. That is why I have 3 inch angle iron welded inside of the stove. I still have a grate that fits inside of my stove. All I have to do is take a torch and cut the down pipe out and weld a plug in its place. My flue pipe has a damper installed in it as well. I would just have to build a ash pan for it. The front of the stove door, has vents for burning fire wood. 3 hours of work, my oil burning stove can be converted over to burning fire wood. 30 inch piece of fire wood is allot of wood to burn. That is why I chose 3 foot barrels.
You say your burn tube is 20 inches with the three inch pipe in the center. What is the distance from the center of that pipe to the front of the stove?
18 inchs, give or take some.
I like your stack and how it's cemented to the ground. I also live in a very high wind area. What is the thickness of the 8 inch pipe you used for your stack?
.075 inch thick. That pipe came from a grain auger. Its allot thicker than regular flue pipe that you can buy at the store.
I noticed you have no clean out for your top barrel, unless it's on the back. Are you still going to add one or do you think it's unnecessary?
I don't have a clean out and I probably wont add one. My stove burns clean enough that I can leave the door open (as you can see in my videos).
Last question, for now at least. On a low burn, approximately how much oil do you think you are burning per hour?
My stove can burn half a gallon to 2 gallons per hour. Burning half a gallon per hour takes some time to get the settings and the burner temperature right. You just cant make a adjustment and walk off and think it will burn right and clean. Dropping the burner temperature to fast will cause the burner to start smoking. Air and fuel ratio has to be right or the burner will shut off. This burner acts like a engine. The air and fuel ratio can be right, but if its not getting the right amount of fuel (volume of fuel so to speak), it will lose power and shut right down. I've had this happen twice and to this day, I don't know what I done wrong. Now, this is just a theory and I have no actual test finding , but here latley, I've been messing with the holding tank air pressure. I can adjust the holding tank air pressure and it will change the atomizing process. I generally use about 12 lbs of air pressure to pressurize the holding tank. This acts like a fuel pump. I've been noticing that when the holding tank get down to 1/2 tank. The pressure will drop blow 12 lbs of air pressure. I need at least 12 lbs of air pressure for the stove to stay running. Gravity alone will not feed the burner enough. So, what I did was turn the pressure up to 25 lbs on the gauge. And it will stay there. But it will burn more fuel doing at. So, I adjusted the amount of oil flowing into the burner by adjusting the hydraulic flow control valve to help compensate. But, I also put a baffle inside of the burner to help centralize the heat. But that did not work right. The flame inside the burner ran right up the fuel path and got my funnel red hot. But using the baffle gave me a idea. So, hopefully my new dam baffle that I built last night will work. I calling it a dam baffle cause it looks like a dam over a river. The baffle has to be tall enough that it clears the diesel during preheat and the baffle will not block the air volume (during preheat, you can not have allot of air pressure, you need controlled air volume, which aids in building heat for the burner) . But tall enough to centralize the heat in the burner. But, not tall enough to cause the flame to travel back up the fuel path to the down pipe cap. If the down pipe cap gets too hot, the oil line is about four inch's up inside the down pipe. The hot cap will "FRY or COOK" the oil in the oil line. Right now, I'm working on a process to centralize the heat in the center of the burner with the baffle. Once I'm 100% done with it. I'm done with the burner (no more modes). I think my problem with the air pressure dropping inside of the holding tank is do to air volume in the red air tank. What I will do is completely remove the red tank and run a air hose to my compressor. All I need from the compressor is 25 lbs. 25 lbs of air pressure on the oil inside of the holding tank will help the oil flow the same regardless of how much volume is inside the holding tank. Oil viscosity plays a roll in this. My way around oil viscosity changing while the stove heat up. Pressurize the oil holding tank and meter the oil flow with the hydraulic flow control valve. Needle valve will not work (already tried it). That's why I'm using a hydraulic flow control valve, there accurate in metering oil flow.
I know this is allot to take in, but all in all, I'm having fun making almost free heat. Plus, it give me something to do.
When you build one, you will be blown always at how much heat motor oil will produce. Reading up on burning waste oil, I have read that burning 1 gallon of oil per hour will produce 140,000 btu's (@100% efficient). Having a heat exchanger will raise that number. The less heat that goes up the flue pipe, the more efficient the stove is.
I just recently got hold of 24 feet of the same 24 inch gas pipe that you used. I'm going to use 14 feet for a land roller and was wondering what to do with the rest. Well, now I know.
Cool...
When are you going to start building your stove?
But I do have some questions for you. Actually a lot of questions. Train, thanks for the compliment.
First about your funnel. Is it just butted up tight to the air tube?
Yes it is. That funnel was made out of a cap off a welding bottle (shielding gas for mig welder). I just cut the end off and drilled holes on each side. Welded nuts over each hole and screwed a bolt into the nut. Also used another nut to lock the bolt. The hole were the air and oil comes out of, is 1 inch in diameter. 1 inch hole was enough to allow the funnel to compress the air. My blower motor has enough volume of air, but I need to compress or localize the air it so that it would atomize the oil. This acts like a fuel injector so to speak. Its hard to see in the video's, but seeing it in person. The oil comes out about 1.5 inchs and as it enters the top tube on the burner, the oil patterns out (kind of like a umbrella , like this--->/\ ). The inside of the tube acts like a vortex. The air entering the burner, swirls inside. This also helps to atomize the oil.
The little door on your burn tube, I assume is just so the flame is directed to the back of the furnace yes?
That door is for cleaning and preheating the burner. That door allows me to to clean the inside of the burner. I also use it for when I pour 4 ounces of diesel in it to help preheat the burner. I was using 1 ounce of oil and shreaded paper. But the paper would burn up to fast. The burner has to reach 375 degree (F) before I turn the oil on. The paper just burnt up before the burner reached that temperature. 4 ounces of diesel would get the burner up to 500 degrees (F). Oil take allot of heat to effectively burn proper (clean burn).
What is the distance between the two barrels?
I think its 7 inchs between the two barrels.
Do you think that the two barrels could be shorter than the 3 footers that you used?
Yes, the barrels could be shorter. I went with 3 feet cause I thought if burning waste oil did not work out or was to much work. I could convert it over to burning fire wood. That is why I have 3 inch angle iron welded inside of the stove. I still have a grate that fits inside of my stove. All I have to do is take a torch and cut the down pipe out and weld a plug in its place. My flue pipe has a damper installed in it as well. I would just have to build a ash pan for it. The front of the stove door, has vents for burning fire wood. 3 hours of work, my oil burning stove can be converted over to burning fire wood. 30 inch piece of fire wood is allot of wood to burn. That is why I chose 3 foot barrels.
You say your burn tube is 20 inches with the three inch pipe in the center. What is the distance from the center of that pipe to the front of the stove?
18 inchs, give or take some.
I like your stack and how it's cemented to the ground. I also live in a very high wind area. What is the thickness of the 8 inch pipe you used for your stack?
.075 inch thick. That pipe came from a grain auger. Its allot thicker than regular flue pipe that you can buy at the store.
I noticed you have no clean out for your top barrel, unless it's on the back. Are you still going to add one or do you think it's unnecessary?
I don't have a clean out and I probably wont add one. My stove burns clean enough that I can leave the door open (as you can see in my videos).
Last question, for now at least. On a low burn, approximately how much oil do you think you are burning per hour?
My stove can burn half a gallon to 2 gallons per hour. Burning half a gallon per hour takes some time to get the settings and the burner temperature right. You just cant make a adjustment and walk off and think it will burn right and clean. Dropping the burner temperature to fast will cause the burner to start smoking. Air and fuel ratio has to be right or the burner will shut off. This burner acts like a engine. The air and fuel ratio can be right, but if its not getting the right amount of fuel (volume of fuel so to speak), it will lose power and shut right down. I've had this happen twice and to this day, I don't know what I done wrong. Now, this is just a theory and I have no actual test finding , but here latley, I've been messing with the holding tank air pressure. I can adjust the holding tank air pressure and it will change the atomizing process. I generally use about 12 lbs of air pressure to pressurize the holding tank. This acts like a fuel pump. I've been noticing that when the holding tank get down to 1/2 tank. The pressure will drop blow 12 lbs of air pressure. I need at least 12 lbs of air pressure for the stove to stay running. Gravity alone will not feed the burner enough. So, what I did was turn the pressure up to 25 lbs on the gauge. And it will stay there. But it will burn more fuel doing at. So, I adjusted the amount of oil flowing into the burner by adjusting the hydraulic flow control valve to help compensate. But, I also put a baffle inside of the burner to help centralize the heat. But that did not work right. The flame inside the burner ran right up the fuel path and got my funnel red hot. But using the baffle gave me a idea. So, hopefully my new dam baffle that I built last night will work. I calling it a dam baffle cause it looks like a dam over a river. The baffle has to be tall enough that it clears the diesel during preheat and the baffle will not block the air volume (during preheat, you can not have allot of air pressure, you need controlled air volume, which aids in building heat for the burner) . But tall enough to centralize the heat in the burner. But, not tall enough to cause the flame to travel back up the fuel path to the down pipe cap. If the down pipe cap gets too hot, the oil line is about four inch's up inside the down pipe. The hot cap will "FRY or COOK" the oil in the oil line. Right now, I'm working on a process to centralize the heat in the center of the burner with the baffle. Once I'm 100% done with it. I'm done with the burner (no more modes). I think my problem with the air pressure dropping inside of the holding tank is do to air volume in the red air tank. What I will do is completely remove the red tank and run a air hose to my compressor. All I need from the compressor is 25 lbs. 25 lbs of air pressure on the oil inside of the holding tank will help the oil flow the same regardless of how much volume is inside the holding tank. Oil viscosity plays a roll in this. My way around oil viscosity changing while the stove heat up. Pressurize the oil holding tank and meter the oil flow with the hydraulic flow control valve. Needle valve will not work (already tried it). That's why I'm using a hydraulic flow control valve, there accurate in metering oil flow.
I know this is allot to take in, but all in all, I'm having fun making almost free heat. Plus, it give me something to do.
When you build one, you will be blown always at how much heat motor oil will produce. Reading up on burning waste oil, I have read that burning 1 gallon of oil per hour will produce 140,000 btu's (@100% efficient). Having a heat exchanger will raise that number. The less heat that goes up the flue pipe, the more efficient the stove is.
I just recently got hold of 24 feet of the same 24 inch gas pipe that you used. I'm going to use 14 feet for a land roller and was wondering what to do with the rest. Well, now I know.
Cool...
When are you going to start building your stove?
Well cliff it may be a while yet. It seems not much has gotten done here lately. We've had just the craziest weather around here this year and it's put a lot of stuff on hold. Right now it's -32 celcius and it hasn't been much warmer than that for the last week. A few nights ago it hit -40 and we had a good wind to go along with it. I haven't even fired the shop heater up as I just can't justify the cost of the natural gas running 24 - 7 just to spend a couple hours in there at a time. The shop is 2400 sq. feet with with an 18 foot ceiling at it's highest point. It's insulated to r 20 but it all needs to be redone and we're about a quarter of the way through that project. Just before this cold hit I was working on converting an old coal furnace to burn oil using a turk burner. Once it warms up a little I'll finish that project.I hope.
I was watching your videos of the temperature shots. That one of the back where it hits well over 600f, I think that's the sweet spot for developing a heat exchanger. If a guy worked around that do you think the top barrel could be made with a smaller diameter?
Your design does use more oil that I thought it would. Once I get started I'm going to experiment with a shorter burn tube and see if I can get things downsized a bit. I'd like to get to about 1 quart an hour and with the massive amount of heat your dragon is generating I'm thinking that would still produce lots of heat. Remember I am talking about incorperating some type of heat exchanger to use the heat somewhat more efficiantly.
I had to laugh when I read you used the tube from an old auger. We have several here that I got from an auction for 5 bucks a piece. Thought I could use the wheels for something, never even thought about using the tubing. Looking at all the material you used, the only two things I don't have here right now are the dimmer switch and the hydraulic control valve. Yes I even have the fan.
As an added bonus one of the stores in town has their laser thermometers on sale for 60% off and I got permision from the big cheese (wife)to buy one. I don't even have to count it as a christmas gift. I know it's not neccesary but come on. What guy doesn't want a laser thermometer?
I was watching your videos of the temperature shots. That one of the back where it hits well over 600f, I think that's the sweet spot for developing a heat exchanger. If a guy worked around that do you think the top barrel could be made with a smaller diameter?
Your design does use more oil that I thought it would. Once I get started I'm going to experiment with a shorter burn tube and see if I can get things downsized a bit. I'd like to get to about 1 quart an hour and with the massive amount of heat your dragon is generating I'm thinking that would still produce lots of heat. Remember I am talking about incorperating some type of heat exchanger to use the heat somewhat more efficiantly.
I had to laugh when I read you used the tube from an old auger. We have several here that I got from an auction for 5 bucks a piece. Thought I could use the wheels for something, never even thought about using the tubing. Looking at all the material you used, the only two things I don't have here right now are the dimmer switch and the hydraulic control valve. Yes I even have the fan.
As an added bonus one of the stores in town has their laser thermometers on sale for 60% off and I got permision from the big cheese (wife)to buy one. I don't even have to count it as a christmas gift. I know it's not neccesary but come on. What guy doesn't want a laser thermometer?
OP
LetsRoll
Gold Member
I was watching your videos of the temperature shots. That one of the back where it hits well over 600f, I think that's the sweet spot for developing a heat exchanger. If a guy worked around that do you think the top barrel could be made with a smaller diameter?
Anything is possible. There really is no limit on size. But, with my setup, I have two heat exchangers. The bottom barrel and the top barrel are both heat exchangers. Being the burner is enclosed inside of the bottom barrel. Here is what I do, once I get the burner going and the settings (fuel and air ratio) right. I close the damper in the flue pipe. You can see the damper handle sticking out of the flue pipe in the walk around video. I have a temperature gauge stuck to the flue pipe right there so that I can monitor it. I also have a temperature gauge stuck right in the middle of the top barrel on the front. After about two hours those two gauges will read the same. The reason it takes two hours for both gauges to read the same is because the top barrel is 3/8 inch thick steel and the flue pipe is .075 thousands thick. As for the closing of the damper, I do this to hold the heat inside of both barrels. I can close the damper off to 90%. With my setup, I lose very little heat up the flue pipe. That in my book of thinking is very efficient. As for the sweet spot in the back, I have a box fan that blows air on that spot. I get allot of heat from that place.
Your design does use more oil that I thought it would. Once I get started I'm going to experiment with a shorter burn tube and see if I can get things downsized a bit. I'd like to get to about 1 quart an hour and with the massive amount of heat your dragon is generating I'm thinking that would still produce lots of heat. Remember I am talking about incorporating some type of heat exchanger to use the heat somewhat more efficiently.
My design will muster some serious heat (BTU's). I didn't want to be waiting around for my shop too heat up. If you want to downsize, its going to take allot more research than what I've done. Your going to have to be able to control the oil flow better than what I'm doing. Your going to have to break the oil down to a micron particle to be able to burn a quart of oil an hour. One quart of oil an hour will not produce that much BTU's. One quart of oil per hour will produce 28,000 BTU's @ 100% efficiently. That will not be enough BTU's to heat your shop in my honest opinion.
I had to laugh when I read you used the tube from an old auger. We have several here that I got from an auction for 5 bucks a piece. Thought I could use the wheels for something, never even thought about using the tubing. Looking at all the material you used, the only two things I don't have here right now are the dimmer switch and the hydraulic control valve. Yes I even have the fan.
As an added bonus one of the stores in town has their laser thermometers on sale for 60% off and I got permission from the big cheese (wife)to buy one.
Just remember, boys buy what they "can", men buy what they "want". ~~
I don't even have to count it as a Christmas gift. I know it's not necessary but come on. What guy doesn't want a laser thermometer?
I use mine during the preheat stage and I also check the outside flue pipe temperatures. That tells me how much heat I'm losing out of the flue pipe (being efficient that is).
As a side note. Being able to heat my shop and not pay for heating fuel during these cold months, I've been able to do side jobs in my shop for other farmers. Doing these side jobs in the warmth of my shop has paid for my heater. Actually, I'm way ahead of what it cost me to build my waste oil burning stove. And most of the farmers just give me there used oil just to get rid of it. I'm working on my second 55 gallon drum as I speak (write). Its a win win situation.
Anything is possible. There really is no limit on size. But, with my setup, I have two heat exchangers. The bottom barrel and the top barrel are both heat exchangers. Being the burner is enclosed inside of the bottom barrel. Here is what I do, once I get the burner going and the settings (fuel and air ratio) right. I close the damper in the flue pipe. You can see the damper handle sticking out of the flue pipe in the walk around video. I have a temperature gauge stuck to the flue pipe right there so that I can monitor it. I also have a temperature gauge stuck right in the middle of the top barrel on the front. After about two hours those two gauges will read the same. The reason it takes two hours for both gauges to read the same is because the top barrel is 3/8 inch thick steel and the flue pipe is .075 thousands thick. As for the closing of the damper, I do this to hold the heat inside of both barrels. I can close the damper off to 90%. With my setup, I lose very little heat up the flue pipe. That in my book of thinking is very efficient. As for the sweet spot in the back, I have a box fan that blows air on that spot. I get allot of heat from that place.
Your design does use more oil that I thought it would. Once I get started I'm going to experiment with a shorter burn tube and see if I can get things downsized a bit. I'd like to get to about 1 quart an hour and with the massive amount of heat your dragon is generating I'm thinking that would still produce lots of heat. Remember I am talking about incorporating some type of heat exchanger to use the heat somewhat more efficiently.
My design will muster some serious heat (BTU's). I didn't want to be waiting around for my shop too heat up. If you want to downsize, its going to take allot more research than what I've done. Your going to have to be able to control the oil flow better than what I'm doing. Your going to have to break the oil down to a micron particle to be able to burn a quart of oil an hour. One quart of oil an hour will not produce that much BTU's. One quart of oil per hour will produce 28,000 BTU's @ 100% efficiently. That will not be enough BTU's to heat your shop in my honest opinion.
I had to laugh when I read you used the tube from an old auger. We have several here that I got from an auction for 5 bucks a piece. Thought I could use the wheels for something, never even thought about using the tubing. Looking at all the material you used, the only two things I don't have here right now are the dimmer switch and the hydraulic control valve. Yes I even have the fan.
As an added bonus one of the stores in town has their laser thermometers on sale for 60% off and I got permission from the big cheese (wife)to buy one.
Just remember, boys buy what they "can", men buy what they "want". ~
~ I don't even have to count it as a Christmas gift. I know it's not necessary but come on. What guy doesn't want a laser thermometer?
I use mine during the preheat stage and I also check the outside flue pipe temperatures. That tells me how much heat I'm losing out of the flue pipe (being efficient that is).
As a side note. Being able to heat my shop and not pay for heating fuel during these cold months, I've been able to do side jobs in my shop for other farmers. Doing these side jobs in the warmth of my shop has paid for my heater. Actually, I'm way ahead of what it cost me to build my waste oil burning stove. And most of the farmers just give me there used oil just to get rid of it. I'm working on my second 55 gallon drum as I speak (write). Its a win win situation.
Cliff, good to see your still working on the stove. I hope when your done with the latest mod--dam/baffle-- you will give us a drawing or at least a description of the final design.
I was wondering, your funnel has a 1" hole I think you said, what would be the difference with that or just running 1" tube all the way from the blower?
Keep up the good work.
DRL
I was wondering, your funnel has a 1" hole I think you said, what would be the difference with that or just running 1" tube all the way from the blower?
Keep up the good work.
DRL
OP
LetsRoll
Gold Member
Cliff, good to see your still working on the stove.
Thanks, hopefully one of these days I will leave it alone and just use it for what I intended to use it for.
I hope when your done with the latest mod--dam/baffle-- you will give us a drawing or at least a description of the final design.
Nope, it's "TOP SECRET".
If I told you, you know what I will have to do to you.... ~~
I was wondering, your funnel has a 1" hole I think you said, what would be the difference with that or just running 1" tube all the way from the blower?
Running a 1 inch tube from the blower to the burner would put too much back pressure on the blower motor and cause it to over heat. Plus, it would not give me the amount of volume that I needed. To get the pressure from this blower, I had to use a bigger diameter pipe/tube and to get the pressure, I had to fab up a end cap on the end of the down pipe. That gave me the right amount of air pressure to atomize the oil. I also wanted to use this blower cause of how low of amps (1.8 amps) it takes to run it. I wanted my stove to take very little power to run (cost savings factor so to speak) and product a ton of BTU's (heat). Plus, having a damper installed in the flue pipe. I can control how much heat escapes up the flue pipe. The damper has a small hole in the middle of it. So, I can hold 90% of the heat that the stove is producing when I have the damper closed. Plus I can control how much heat this stove produces by adjusting the amount of oil flow via the hydraulic flow control valve and by adjusting how hot the flame/fire gets by adjusting the air via the variable speed switch. As a side note, it took me about 10 gallons of oil during testing to see what size hole I needed just for the end cap. Looking back and thinking out loud, I have almost 100 hours worth of testing in this stove.
Keep up the good work.
You do the same and have a Merry Christmas.
DRL
Thanks,
Cliff
Thanks, hopefully one of these days I will leave it alone and just use it for what I intended to use it for.
I hope when your done with the latest mod--dam/baffle-- you will give us a drawing or at least a description of the final design.
Nope, it's "TOP SECRET".
If I told you, you know what I will have to do to you.... ~
~I was wondering, your funnel has a 1" hole I think you said, what would be the difference with that or just running 1" tube all the way from the blower?
Running a 1 inch tube from the blower to the burner would put too much back pressure on the blower motor and cause it to over heat. Plus, it would not give me the amount of volume that I needed. To get the pressure from this blower, I had to use a bigger diameter pipe/tube and to get the pressure, I had to fab up a end cap on the end of the down pipe. That gave me the right amount of air pressure to atomize the oil. I also wanted to use this blower cause of how low of amps (1.8 amps) it takes to run it. I wanted my stove to take very little power to run (cost savings factor so to speak) and product a ton of BTU's (heat). Plus, having a damper installed in the flue pipe. I can control how much heat escapes up the flue pipe. The damper has a small hole in the middle of it. So, I can hold 90% of the heat that the stove is producing when I have the damper closed. Plus I can control how much heat this stove produces by adjusting the amount of oil flow via the hydraulic flow control valve and by adjusting how hot the flame/fire gets by adjusting the air via the variable speed switch. As a side note, it took me about 10 gallons of oil during testing to see what size hole I needed just for the end cap. Looking back and thinking out loud, I have almost 100 hours worth of testing in this stove.
Keep up the good work.
You do the same and have a Merry Christmas.
DRL
Thanks,
Cliff
