Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop

   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#141  
4 added videos of my newest burner (part 1-4). I'm going to call it the "Turbo Burner"....lol. ~:D~ ~:D~ ~:D~

Part 1 Right after start up.
Part 2 Getting hotter.
Part 3 The dragon...lol.
Part 4 Looking inside through the top air vent.

YouTube - OLetsRoll's Videos


No kerosene was used to start the fire. Just shredded paper and a little oil.
By the way...this burner will not back draft. So, no first and second degree burns for me.:eek: "\:rolleyes:/"

Enjoys,
Cliff
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #142  
Great video clips. I have been following your progress. Now you can pick up some waste oil from Burger king or McDonalds and have the aroma of French Fries while you heat up the place.
:eek:
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #143  
LetsRoll said:
4 added videos of my newest burner (part 1-4). I'm going to call it the "Turbo Burner"....lol. ~:D~ ~:D~ ~:D~

Part 1 Right after start up.
Part 2 Getting hotter.
Part 3 The dragon...lol.
Part 4 Looking inside through the top air vent.

YouTube - OLetsRoll's Videos


No kerosene was used to start the fire. Just shredded paper and a little oil.
By the way...this burner will not back draft. So, no first and second degree burns for me.:eek: "\:rolleyes:/"

Enjoys,
Cliff

Ok Cliff
So how exactly is the new burner configured? I see fuel, and I am assuming air from the blower going into the top, bright orange case and flame comming out the back... I see the part you were calling the funnel on the end of the downpipe. Dosn't that restrict airflow? Or does it instead focus/increase it's velocity along with starting to atomize the fuel?

That is one heck of a sturdy looking stove:)
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#144  
RonMar said:
Ok Cliff
So how exactly is the new burner configured? I see fuel, and I am assuming air from the blower going into the top, bright orange case and flame comming out the back... I see the part you were calling the funnel on the end of the downpipe. Dosn't that restrict airflow? Or does it instead focus/increase it's velocity along with starting to atomize the fuel?

That is one heck of a sturdy looking stove:)
The blower motor is several feet away from the stove, reason being, I wanted cooler air entering the stove (keeps the funnel from over heating and cooking the oil in the oil line). The pipe that the blower motor is connected to is 2 3/4 inch. I had the velocity but not enough pressure to atomize the oil. The more and more test I tried. I finally realized I wanted more (atomizing the oil). Plus my burner before this gave me a back draft which in return gave me first and second degree burns on my face. That setup worked rather well. But the conditions were favorable that day and my timing was rather stupid and the end result, I got a face full of fire. So, I decided the time was to re-think this setup and move to the next level and see how my idea of using a funnel would bring. This was a rather time consuming and unplanned idea. But I jumped right in and started looking for a steel funnel that could handle some heat. I looked high and low and was about to give up and just build one out of sheet metal and go from there. I was at tractor supply one day and it occurred to me that a cap off a welding or torch bottle would work. So, I bought one and got home and cut the top off it. Drilled a hole on each side and welded a nut over the hole. The opening for the oil ended up, having to be a 1 inch hole. Tried other smaller sizes, but they restricted the air. Finnally got to 1 inch and decide this was good. So, I set it up and gave it a try on my old setup burner, skillet, conical and the piece of flue pipe. After several test, I realized the flue pipe needed to higher than the conical so that the flame would flow underneith the flue pipe. My one video (waste oil burning stove) on you tube shows this setup. But my problem with that setup was, the flame would flow underneith the flue pipe and some of the flame would stay in the middle and come back up toward the funnel and one test I was doing, the funnel was glowing red hot. As soon as I seen this, I turned the oil off cause the heat was traveling up the pipe toward the oil line and it sounded like popcorn was inside the air pipe. My oil line is only about 3 inches from the end of the air pipe. Then it occured to me that if I compress the flame inside of some tube, the flame could not get to the funnel and anything up higher like the oil line. While I stood there letting the blower motor cool the funnel down. I walked around my shop over to my pile of metal and dug out a piece of pipe. This pipe is 20 inchs long and the inside is, if I remember right, its 6 1/2 inchs and its 3/8 inch thick. Then I found another piece of pipe that was 3 inchs long. I cut a hole in the tube and welded this pipe inside of the hole. I used this pipe cause it 1/2 inch thick. I thought that since its thick, it will take longer to heat up. I was right, you can see the tube is cherry red and the short pipe that the oil passes into is not. Video 3 shows this. Since the metal is thicker and the air is compressed, this pipe can not turn cherry red. It gets hot, but the heat can not travel to the funnel and the oil line. I also decide to weld some hinges from things I had around my shop and also make a door. I decided kerosene was going to be the starter fuel no more ($4.00 a gallon here). I decide I was going to use shredded paper (all paper of value gets shredded) and I have several bags that need burned. So, I built the door. Fill with shredded paper, lite paper and close door and turn on oil (very little) and after about 2 minutes, turn the blower motor to full power. While the paper and small amount of oil is burning, I have the blower motor turned on a low setting. This helps it to get hot faster. Two minutes later, blower full power. I have a draggon inside the tube. 8 minutes later, is when I made video 3 and 4. Video 4, I could not even open the door cause of how much heat was inside. The top heat exchanger barrel on the stove was hitting 450 degrees. :eek:

Also, the funnel does restrict the air some cause the blower motor now runs cooler. These blowers need some back pressure, cause thats how they cool themselfs.

Later on, I will be cutting the funnel some more, so that the outer edge is the same size as the down air pipe. But just a little bit bigger so that I can weld a piece of pipe on it. That will allow me to slip the funnel over the down air pipe. And at a later date, I can slip the funnel off and check the oil line. If it needs probed with a gun barrel brush, I can clean it. When I'm done, slip the funnel back on.
 

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   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #145  
OK, I see, thanks for the detailed information. The little dams at the end of the "Dragon" pipe create a trough to contain the fuel, and you inject a column of air and fuel at the top pipe. Interesting. How much residue is there in the "Dragon" after a few hours burn?
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop
  • Thread Starter
#146  
RonMar said:
OK, I see, thanks for the detailed information. The little dams at the end of the "Dragon" pipe create a trough to contain the fuel, and you inject a column of air and fuel at the top pipe. Interesting. How much residue is there in the "Dragon" after a few hours burn?
No residue is left. Only ash is left from the shredded paper. The tube gets cherry red and burns everything. To take a guess, I'd say the tube reachs probably 1500 plus degrees. The oil does not even touch the inside of the tube. As soon as it enters the tube, its turned into a gas/vapor form and burns as soon as it hits the flame/heat.

As for the ends of the tube. I welded stops in there encase I had the oil turned up to high when starting the fire. There only need during start up. It takes some time liting the fire if you dont know what the settings are for starting the fire inside of the tube. Since I've ran several test trying to determine the right amount of fuel and air and how much air pressure I need so that I dont blow the flame out. I can now lite it with no problems. I even know how much time I need and what temperture the tube has to be at for the dragon to take off on its own. When I say dragon, I really ment turn the blower motor to full power. To find out the temperture of the outside of the tube, I had to buy a infrared thermometer. After trial by error, I found out the temp.

By the way Ron, are you going to build you a waste oil burning stove?

Cliff
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #147  
Cliff
I have an old woodstove I removed from my home when I went pellet. I plan to put this in a metal box outside my garage, weld heatsink fins to the stove in the box and pump garage air to/from the box to heat the garage. This will give me heat without loosing any floor space.

I have a bit of oil available, so I was thinking of makeing an addon oil burner for the stove for when I had oil to get rid of. Your Dragon looks like something that could be pulled out easilly and a wood grate subbed for wood combustion(my planned main source of fuel). I was looking for something a little more passive though that didn't require a blower, but I think that is going to be necessary for really agressive/complete combustion.

Thanks for sharing the great information on your development.

Ron
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #148  
If you have a wood stove to heat a shop space and not enough oil to warrant an oil stove, what about soaking the wood in oil?

Pat
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #149  
patrick_g said:
If you have a wood stove to heat a shop space and not enough oil to warrant an oil stove, what about soaking the wood in oil?

Pat

It might not burn right. Unless you have an extremely hot fire, the oil might not completely combust, as the wood would shield the oil from air which would leave you with oily ashes and coals.

I thought about a little spray nozzle that would shoot a very small quantity of oil into an already hot wood fire. That is about the simplest, but I havn't experimented with it yet. Again I wanted to keep it simple, but that method requires a pump and oil filtered fine enough to pass thru the nozzle.
 
   / Building a waste oil burning stove for my shop #150  
Thanks for your thoughts Ron, you addressed my concern. One day I may try a drip system to drip oil onto the wood fire or onto a ceramic plate heated by the wood fire. I don't have enough oil available to warrant a forced draft version with pressurized oil supply such as has been interesting to read about in this thread. I don't need perfect, just good enough to not have yet another job to do, clean the oil burning part of the stove.

Yesterday afternoon it was 87F and I was not thinking about supplemental heat. This morning after breakfast when I went out to "tend the herd" it was windy and 44F and it wasn't quite such a stretch.

Pat
 

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