BX Alternator kit installation (project)

[Charliebrn]

As I said earlier, I did purchase the alternator kit for the BX, but I was pretty dissapointed in the documentation, barely legible writing, and what writing there was basically said to look at the pictures which were horrible, completely indecipherable. Anyhow, I put in it today, and everything works as promised. I now have plenty of juice for my lights that i'm about to add (already had two, but I want more for moving snow this winter), and other little goodies like a cab and radio system. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Now I don't have any excuse for adding some cool electronics!!!

This pic is of the kit I bought.

 

[Charliebrn]

Step by step
1. Disconnect the battery
2. Take the cowling off. Have a Heineken.
3. Unplug the dynamo (two bullet connectors) and pull out both bolts holding the dynamo in place. Be careful here, as there is a bushing going through the casting for the lower mount. Nowhere did anything mention this, and its nearly invisible in the casting, but it had to come out or you cant mount the larger mounting bolt for the Alternator. The attached pic shows the bushing half out. I had to drive it out with a punch, it was stuck in there pretty good. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

 

[Charliebrn]

4. Remove the old top bracket from the thermostat housing and install the new one. The one with the small bend is for the 2200, the one with the large bend is for the 1800. Both are included in the kit.
5. Remove both bolts holding the old regulator from under the dash. It's held down with 2 10mm nuts, and has large aluminum heat fins. It's a tight fin to get in there, but I managed it with 1/4" deepwell sockets. Unplug it fro the harness, but save one of the lock washers and nuts, as you'll have to use it to mount the new relay.
6. Have another beer.
7. bolt on the new alternator, but put the belt over the pulley first, as it's impossible to fit the belt between the pulley and the antifreeze resevoir after its bolted up.

The attached pic shows the arrangement of the new bolt that goes on the bottom mount, as the bushing needs to be in place. Y ou'll also notice that this is how I learned to put the belt on BEFORE mounting the alternator... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

 

[Charliebrn]

8. route the wiring harness through the firewall. It looks tight, and it is, but there is room for it, as long as you remove the large 6 position molex connector from the bullet connectors.
9. plug the T-shaped connector into the alternator and mount the charge wire to the B connector on the alternator (its the one with the boot attached)

This pic shows the back of the alternator...

 

[Charliebrn]

10. Run the battery wire (the other red wire in the harness with a post loop crimped on) through the boot for the starter and mount it along with the battery cable.

 

[Charliebrn]

11. Mount the IC relay to the inside of the dash where you removed the old regulator. It's a lot smaller and only uses one of the posts, so I used the one most out of the way. lug the 4 position molex connector from the new wiring harness into the relay.

12. plug the bullet connectors back into the 6 position molex connector harness and plug that into the harness that was left inside the dash. yes, it looks strange with only two wires going into that harness, but it makes sense if you look at the wiring diagrams in the service book, as most of that wiring was just to regulate the dynamo configuration.

The attached pic shows all of this...

 

[Charliebrn]

13. Put the cowling back on and have a couple beers to celebrate. Show the wife who'll look at it and nod vacantly. Then call your brother over to check it out, cuz he'll appreciate it. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif (my bro has a B6200 and he now wants an alternator for more lights)

The attached pic shows what you'll have left over. If you have less than I do, let me know, cuz I missed something between the beers. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Junkman]

couple of questions....... first to get this out of the way.... What is the part number of the Amzoil filter that you use? Second, there are two blue wire bullet connectors that appear to be bare in picture #4 directly under the alternator .... Do these get taped up or do they plug into something? I have spoken with the dealer again and he has told me that if I purchase the alternator prior to them doing the set up of the machine, that it would be installed for me at that time at no additional charge. Would you recommend letting the dealer do the change or should I do it myself? Is this the type of job that a sloppy mechanic might cut corners to complete and do a poor job or is it relatively easy and difficult for them to screw up????? Thanks the Junkman

 

[Charliebrn]

the Amzoil filter is an SDF-20.

I'd let the dealer do it, if I were you, I can't see how they could screw this up, but I don't know your dealer either. If two of them make a good idiot, then maybe you ought to tackle it yourself. the extra blue wires aren't used anymore, and the other ends are in unused places in the 6 position molex, so they aren't hot or used for anything else. Tape them up if you wish. I did, just to keep them out of the way.

 

[Mahlon]

Charlie,

What's the Kubota part number for the alternator kit?

regards,

Mahlon

 

[Junkman]

K2561-9862-0 Alternator Kit Part Number.....

 

[Charliebrn]

Whole goods part number BX7310; High Output alternator upgrade kit 480 Watts

It's much cheaper to buy the kit through the Whole goods division, just like it is to buy wheels and tires.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> It's much cheaper to buy the kit through the Whole goods division </font>

Charliebrn
How does someone contact and purchase from the whole goods division? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Is there a site or catalog available?

 

[Charliebrn]

Your dealer can buy through the whole goods, just like he can buy individual parts through parts and service. I think it's like buying the tractor itself...the dealer doesn't buy their stock of tractors through parts, but through whole goods...can you imagine the cost of buying a BX one part at a time???? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Mahlon]

That's basically it; the "whole goods" supply chain is very similar to the new equipment supply chain (with its associated shipping/distribution channels) whereas the "parts" supply chain is completely separate and much faster (and therefore more costly).

My delaer bought my wheels/tires through the "whole goods" supply chain, which meant that they were shipped along with the new equipment shipments on the same trucks. Saved a lot of money, but took weeks instead of days to get 'em.

 

[RichT]

I did the alternator upgrade on my BX22, to support adding an aux lighting system. The directions that come with the upgrade kit are virtually useless as Charliebrn states. Many thx to Charliebrn for his excellent directions. I used them without a hitch, took me an afternoon. The upgrade cost about $170 delivered as whole goods order. Now I'll get to work on the aux lighting system, so I can see through all the smoke/haze here in socal.

 

[RichNJKubota]

For anyone with the time (and therefore lack of money) to do it - You can get a good alternator for a car from the junkyard for $15-$25. Take the Kubota one along and just walk down their alternator aisle and match it up. You won't find an exact match but with a simple mod or two it will fit. I've done this several times with old vehicles where parts are not available any longer.
The smaller car alternators usually start at about 50-60amps. More than enough for a trctor w/aux lites.
Rich

 

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For anyone with the time (and therefore lack of money) to do it - You can get a good alternator for a car from the junkyard for $15-$25. Take the Kubota one along and just walk down their alternator aisle and match it up. You won't find an exact match but with a simple mod or two it will fit. I've done this several times with old vehicles where parts are not available any longer.
The smaller car alternators usually start at about 50-60amps. More than enough for a trctor w/aux lites.
Rich )</font>
<font color="brown">You can do the same thing with batteries.
I switched from a Bolens to a regular car battery for my Bolens Tractor Years ago.
</font>

 

[rbarker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( For anyone with the time (and therefore lack of money) to do it - You can get a good alternator for a car from the junkyard for $15-$25. Take the Kubota one along and just walk down their alternator aisle and match it up. )</font>

The old alternator (actually only a dymo) is significantly smaller than the new alternator and a new mounting bracket and belt were required. There's not a lot of room in there, either. Not that you can't do what you're suggesting but it won't be easy! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Old alternator in attachment

 

[rbarker]

And here's the new one installed.