BX or B

[oldballs]

Let's see......all the ways I like my B2620 (2012 model) over the BX2660 (2009 model) that preceded it. Ground clearance has several advantages...1st is it gives more ground clearance for the use of 3 point plowing, middle busting, tilling and working in rough ground where there are rocks, ruts and stubble. 2nd... the clearance also allow for access to the underside of the tractor for maintenance (without a jack)
3rd...the clearance allows for more ease in mounting/dismounting my MMM. 4th...there is no cooling fan to damage and therefore don't need underarmour....5th...there are not rubber boots to mess up on the front steering.

Other likes are ...the rear signal lights are mounted inside the ROPS so as not so easy to break.....the ROPS is foldable....the engine starts and shuts off with no vibration....my "B" runs cooler and has 3 gears which allows a better ground speed when mowing (and other chores) with less work on the engine....the dash is not digital, so I can read the hour meter without fetching the key again....the R4 stock tires are more rugged and take more abuse...........

Neither of my ownerships had a backhoe but the FEL has greater lift capacity as I recall. I have not noticed much difference in maneuverability
Cheers,
Mike

 

[s219]

I've owned several Bs and BXs and one Grand L. I don't know what a garden tractor is and maybe others don't either or maybe it's just me so could you please explain what a garden tractor is and I can see how that relates to my BX25D that comes with a FEL and backhoe being more like. I don't even have 3ph arms for it so a bit more confused. It also weighs near what my what you refer to as a utility tractor B2620 FEL BH that I just got rid of. Guess my BX25D weighs more than the B2320 I owned. Please help and have you owned for your own use either a B or BX Tractor? Your explanation will be greatly appreciated. Love/appreciate hearing from people with actual hands on experience. :thumbsup:

A garden tractor is generally one size up from a riding mower, and can have 4WD, diesel engines, three-point hitches, PTO, front loader, hydraulics, etc. A modern example would be a Deere x758:

https://www.deere.com/en_US/products/equipment/riding_mowers/x700_signature_series/x758/x758.page?

When talking B versus BX, it comes down to size and scale. The BX overlaps dimensions with a garden tractor (it's actually a teeny bit smaller than that Deere x758, comparing wheelbase and width) but has a heavier frame than a garden tractor, better hydraulics, better front loader, more implement options, etc. Hence my comment that it's like a garden tractor on steroids. It combines the size/scale/nimbleness of a garden tractor with features/capabilities of larger tractors.

The B, on the other hand, is very much unlike a garden tractor in size, scale, and general construction, and is more like a shrunk down utility tractor. I see a lot of similarity between my current L3200 and former B2920 in terms of raw construction and design philosophy, and that doesn't carry down to the BX. I think if you scaled an L down to BX size, the result would be a heavy clumsy tractor that lacks the nimble finesse of a BX.

So I see completely different design philosophy and target use between BX and B.

 

[Will_C]

I'll second the comment about the BX being a garden tractor on steroids. I used mine for all the tasks I used to use a Case garden for- but did them so much easier with the BX-and the FEL was a real bonus.
My B is more of a tractor- I bush hog 8-10 acres worth of small parcels, used it to put in a 1 acre food plot, and maintain a 600 foot gravel driveway. As much as I loved my BX, it would have marginal for all those tasks.

Will

Sent from my iPhone using TractorByNet

 

[bp fick]

Had two BX's and a B. Loved them all. All great machines. Different? Yes. Different target customer base. It surprises me that this constant "debate" or question, if you will, doesn't seem to occur on the John Deere threads. They too have these same sized tractors, because the market demands it. JD has it's 1000 series and it's 2000 series for all the same reasons.

It depends entirely upon what tasks, over what kind of terrain the tractor will be used. End of story. The confusing part for a novice tractor buyer is sometimes just what those tasks will be and what to expect from these various machines. It wouldn't be the end of the world to buy either one. They aren't THAT different. But, they are different intentionally and purposely.

A dozen posts but the OP, ustobefarmer, has to provide more information, other wise????? Which "hat" would you prefer I put on?

My I Love My B series tractor? or I Love My BX series tractor? They're both great machines. I couldn't possibly recommend one over the other without a whole lot more information.

 

[bumperm]

Agree with bp fick.

I've also owned two BX's and a couple of B's too. I currently have a BX24D and a B3350 - - I'll try not to repeat too much of what's already been said.

The BX generally uses 4' wide rear implements, while the B uses 5'. I've seen the BX 3-point listed as Cat 0 - 1, which seems pretty accurate. A standard Cat one dimension implement will often be too wide to fit. If the lower pins can be turned inward, that will often work, but the 3-point, IMO, is not a full-on Cat-1.

The BX will usually do what the B will do, and take more time doing it. Still, the BX is an incredible little workhorse. My company has the BX in California, I have the B and appreciate that added capability, especially the cab for snowblowing. I would never trade the B for BX, but if I had no choice, I'd be quite content with the BX ('cept for the blowing snow part).

Edit to add:

On the stability part, I have the optional rear wheel spacers on the B, still, it's a cab and it "feels" top heavy. Once, with the BH77 hoe attached, I ran the rear wheel into loose fill on a slope and the inclinometer read about 24 degrees. It felt like it was going over! When I got my butt unstuck from the seat, I exited on the uphill side and put timbers under the downhill stabilizer to get it out of the hole, then back filled the hole. I have not idea how close it really was to going over, it may have been a'ways, but it sure didn't feel like it!

Disclaimer: I'm a tippy coward. When it goes past 15 degrees I start getting concerned. I think I know 20 won't go, but if a wheel went into a rut . . .

 

[bcp]

I've heard earlier BX's would not use all full-sized Cat 1 implements, but my BX2360 seems to so far. I have none of what are sometimes called "limited Cat 1" or "Cat 0" implements, just regular sized ones. No problems with them. (blade, box blade, rake, carryall)

Bruce

 

[oldballs]

It's my take from most OP's that they are searching for critiques from prior owners, so they can fit their usage to their desires. Certainly there are pros and cons to each model. It seems to me that "Why I love my XXX" is a legitimate discussion...even though it is oft repeated, just as most other threads are. That's what TBN is about...getting an honest discussion...The OP's will make their own decisions.

 

[ustobefarmer]

I used to install new yards and did some over seeding with my tractor. I sold off most of my equipment and I only have the tractor w/fel, box blade and 6 ft tiller left. My yard is mostly level and is 1.75 ac in size. So I would use the new tractor for mowing and the loader to clear snow (when we get it). My drive way is 200 ft long with rock base. If we do get snow I have a lot of drifting problems. Thanks for all the replies. I think the BX with Fel, mmm, and 4ft tiller would fit most of my needs.

 

[wawajake]

I bought my BX in 2008 and now with the years of usage under my belt.....if I were to do it again I would buy the B series ......because of the larger wheel size. I use numerous attachments and do lots of digging and I find I run out of traction long before I run out of horsepower. I think the bigger wheels would help alleviate that . I would also of went with the AG tires instead of the R4's because the R4's fill with clay mud pretty easily and are not self cleaning as much as AG tires would be . The r4's when they are filled with mud they lose all traction............but I do not use my tractor for lawn cutting (except for brushhogging) so more aggressive tires is not a issue with my uses. ...just my two cents.
I am on hilly ground and so added rear wheel spacers years ago.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I used to install new yards and did some over seeding with my tractor. I sold off most of my equipment and I only have the tractor w/fel, box blade and 6 ft tiller left. My yard is mostly level and is 1.75 ac in size. So I would use the new tractor for mowing and the loader to clear snow (when we get it). My drive way is 200 ft long with rock base. If we do get snow I have a lot of drifting problems. Thanks for all the replies. I think the BX with Fel, mmm, and 4ft tiller would fit most of my needs.

I agree.