BX1850+BX24, does this make sense or am I an idiot?

[LBrown59]

Why not a commercial zero turn? They hold their value well if maintained and would make the job much faster. Why do you think lawn services use them. (easy to sell to a lawn service if well maintained ). I understand if your not comfortable with them but with a little practice they are much more suited for mowing than a 1850. This is from an owner of a bx1850. If I could have both I would. I hate going in circles to get that last little bit of grass or having to get the trimmer out.
In the end speed and quality always wins! (more time to play on the bx24)

What turns me off about a ZTR is the tremendous sacrifice in versatility they cost you.
Do to this they don't interest me a bit.
If you can swing the cost of a tractor to go with one it might be ok but that's a stiff price to pay to get the same job done that
you can do with just a tractor alone.
== L B ==

 

[LBrown59]

Ok, I have a BX24 TLB with a 60 inch MMM and used it to mow about 1 acre of lawn and 4 acres of field last year. Took the mower off in the fall and found the BX24 so much better at getting around and doing FEL and B/H work. And, taking the mower off is not easy and putting it back on is probably harder. Decided to look around for a good lawn/garden tractor for mowing. I looked at the Kubota offerings including the ZTRs that were diesel (I want a diesel and liquid cooling) and John Deere diesels. Well, at the end of the day the least expensive option was the GR tractor at $7,400. Well, then I asked the dealer what a new BX1850 would be with a mower only (48 or 54) and he said $8,800/$8,900. For that relatively small difference I can't see myself buying a lawn tractor however nice. Does anyone disagree? What am I forgetting? Oh, he offered to buy back the 60 inch at no less than $800. But I will probably keep it.

1*the least expensive option was the GR tractor at $7,400.
I asked the dealer what a new BX1850 would be with a mower only (48 or 54) and he said $8,800/$8,900.
2*For that relatively small difference I can't see myself buying a lawn tractor however nice.
3*he offered to buy back the 60 inch at no less than $800. But I will probably keep it

1*I bought these back on 11/8/2007
Used Kubota BX1500 with 48'' mower $5250.oo
New Kubota BX1500 with 48'' mower $7750.oo.
2*The BX1500 and BX1850 are a lot nicer.
3*I'm asking $800 for my used 48'' BX1500 mower so I don't think the dealer is offering you enough for yours. Hang onto it.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

While zero turns are great for speed and being able to get into tight areas all they can do is mow. Also in the Northwest here we measure are rain in feet per year and with the wet hillsides that I have the zero turn will break traction before doing a turn uphill. Besides I have an extra tractor to haul the log splitter with while the BX hauls the log rounds to it for splitting. I know the G2160 is close in price to what the BX1500 was but you cannot compare the quickness of the electric power steering to what the BXs hydraulic is.

David Kb7uns

 

[JJPP]

I would rather spend my time doing something productive on the tractor other than mowing grass that is why if it were an option I would have a zero turn along with my bx. The speed and ease of a zero turn can't be matched by a tractor.

 

[mjarrels]

More tractors is always a GOOD thing!

mark

 

[LBrown59]

The least expensive option was the GR tractor at $7,400. Well, then I asked the dealer what a new BX1850 would be with a mower only (48 or 54) and he said $8,800/$8,900. For that relatively small difference I can't see myself buying a lawn tractor.

The G series are nicer than the GR series but they are still only high end higher priced garden tractors.
The BX 1850 is a much better deal for the money.
My dealer don't even stock the G series because the BX1850 is a better deal for the consumer.

Disadvantages of the GR over the BX1850
You have to remove and attach the FEL on the BX24 to use other front mounted attachments.
You have to remove and attach the back hoe on the BX24 to use other rear mounted 3 point hitch implements.

Advantages of A BX1850 over the GR.
No need to remove and attach the FEL on the BX24 to use other front mounted attachments.
Don't have to remove and attach the back hoe on the BX24 to use other rear mounted 3 point hitch implements.

 

[montelatici]

Well, today the dealer asked me to drive the GR2110 before making the decision. It was quite amazing, it is like a zero turn. However, the flexibility of using some of my old implements (plow, disc) without removing the B/H from the BX24, and the possibility of being able to mount other 3 pt implements made me choose the little BX. The dealer was kind of pushing the GR, he said that removing and replacing the B/H on the BX24 (to use the 3Pt) was not so difficult. I told him I wasn't getting any younger and that while it is a PITA now, it might become impossible for me to do it alone 15 years from now. So it is the BX1850 with a 54" mower and turf tires. By the way, it has the hydraulics and the FEL subframe on it. Is this how they are sold?

Thanks for your help.

 

[LBrown59]

Congratulations on making the right decision.
The BX1850 is A hands down winner over the GR2110.

Between:
My BX23 with the FEL BH & 60'' MMM
My used BX1500 with a front blade and a 48'' rear tiller
And my New BX1500 with the 48'' MMM.
I can do all the following without switching any attachments.
Loader work
BH work
Mowing
Tilling
Grading
pushing snow dirt gravel etc.
Mowing in small tight spots.
Use various 3 point implements.

I wouldn't trade this luxury for 5 garden tractors or ZTRs.

Well, today the dealer asked me to drive the GR2110 before making the decision. It was quite amazing, it is like a zero turn. However, the flexibility of using some of my old implements (plow, disc) without removing the B/H from the BX24, and the possibility of being able to mount other 3 pt implements made me choose the little BX. The dealer was kind of pushing the GR, he said that removing and replacing the B/H on the BX24 (to use the 3Pt) was not so difficult. I told him I wasn't getting any younger and that while it is a PITA now, it might become impossible for me to do it alone 15 years from now. So it is the BX1850 with a 54" mower and turf tires. By the way, it has the hydraulics and the FEL subframe on it. Is this how they are sold?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Tom_H]

I certainly hear the part about getting older. That's why I always ask myself whether I will be able to operate any new attachment 20 years from now before buying it. It's also why all my implements are on custom built dollies.

All of my implements and the tractor stay in the third bay of the garage. When it is time to change implements, the 2 cars go out, leaving a very smooth and sizeable surface for moving things around. The implements roll easily into docking position.

The MMM dolly is made of 1/2" plywood cut to match the MMM skirt profile. It has 16 2" swivel casters around the perimeter. The wheels on the MMM do not have to be pivoted. The dolly has some small trim to raise the elevation at the front edge, as well as holes just beneath the bolts that hold the blades on. The trim and holes allow the blades not to rest on the plywood, which in turn allows me to rotate the PTO coupling when attaching. It only takes me 3 min. to get the MMM on or off, and not much physical effort is required. When removing it, I push the dolly with my foot and allow the 2 sections of the drive shaft to come apart. It is then easy to remove the section still attached to the PTO. When reattaching, it is easy to camber the MMM at an angle and get one hand to the coupling. The secrets to recoupling the PTO are: plenty of lube, cock the retraction ring, and finesse. When I find myself struggling, I have to remember to lighten my touch, not try to force it harder. I gently rotate the coupling while simultaneously rocking and pushing gently forward. Nine out of ten times I can get the thing on in less than three seconds. It did take a couple of years in the learning curve to get this technique down.

There are TBN members who attach and detach the FEL to lift the front of the tractor in order to get more clearance when attaching/detaching the MMM. A much easier solution is to place a short piece of 2" x 12" board in front of each tire and drive up on them.

I will get the tractor back next week with my new Woods backhoe. I already have most of the materials for building the dolly for this.

I do not have the space to store two tractors, and having the funds invested in one machine gives me the financial ability to have more attachments. It also means fewer internal combustion engines to maintain. For this same reason, I try to buy things like chipper, generator, etc. that can be powered from the rear PTO. Keeping multiple IC engines lubed and ready to run is something I would rather not spend time on when I can just attach the machine to the PTO and fire up the tractor.

 

[Bob_Young]

Yeah, montelatici, you're an idiot. No one in their right mind would want to own more than one tractor. You've jumped the track for sure this time.

Want proof? LBrown59 is on your side. Need say no more.
Bob

P.S. Just kiddin' You made the "right" choice. Welcome to the Dark Side.... You still may be crazy; but it'll be crazy happy. Tractors....the more the merrier. Watcha gonna get next?