BX23S / BX25 Back hoe capabilities

[BX23S-1]

I'm not so sure that it's a good idea. Isn't it true that back dragging with the FEL is much harder on the cylinders? And of course when you are digging with the BH, sometimes it will want to pull the tractor backwards towards the trench, which is kind of like back dragging, and will put a lot of force on the FEL cylinders. Just a thought.

If you read your operators manual, (BX23S page 75, section 2) it states the proper use of the bucket position, in which it DOES say:
"When possible, the loader bucket cutting edge should be lowered vertically into the ground surface"

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

If you read your operators manual, (BX23S page 75, section 2) it states the proper use of the bucket position, in which it DOES say:
"When possible, the loader bucket cutting edge should be lowered vertically into the ground surface"

Actually, it says that whether he reads it or not.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

Hey, don't one of you BX23s guys want a thumb to make that BX BH complete????? I just so happened to have one for sale that I didn't use on my BX25D1 and $250 cash or trade would get it out of my way. See that hole on that BH arm, that's where it goes, easy peasy and makes that BH 10 to 98% more usable for picking stuff up!!!:cool2:.

Here are some pics of the thumb at this page. http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...g/382010-mechanical-thumb-kubota-b21-w-2.html

 

[nikerret]

I agree with you about how much to lift the rear wheels... i see so many people raising the rear tires as high as they possibly can. Number one, your digging depth is effected, number two, your out riggers dont stabilize as well when they start pulling inward. Keep it low, the out riggers reach out further, more stable. When i feel the tractor just start to just lift up, i stop right there. Tires contacting the ground adds more stability in my opinion.

I have found the opposite to be true. When I dig, I have learned I usually need to have the tractor lifted as high as the outriggers will go. I've also found it's better to leave the MMM on, for the weight. In our hard ground, I end up pulling the tractor, instead of digging, when I leave it lower. Most of the time, I have the outriggers a few inches under ground. Sure, the digging depth is less, but I'm usually only going 2-4 feet.

 

[timswi]

My BX23 BH does a great job. The bucket is kinda small (12") and things can kinda go slow but that's OK since my digging time is free and kind of mind numbing--A good thing for me anyways.

One thing to watch is that the BH can easily over-power the weight of the machine, so be a little careful there...

Also, I found this out almost the hard way, if you're jumping off the BH wearing a long shirt or coat with the tractor running be careful...My shirt caught the stick and the bucket/arm almost nailed me. Lesson learned.

I usually lightly put the FEL bucket in the ground angled at a 45ish degree angle and slightly lift/level the machine with the outriggers..The rear tires are usually only an inch or 2 off the ground on level. Never had an issue with that approach in 14 years.

 

[BX23S-1]

My BX23 BH does a great job. The bucket is kinda small (12") and things can kinda go slow but that's OK since my digging time is free and kind of mind numbing--A good thing for me anyways.

One thing to watch is that the BH can easily over-power the weight of the machine, so be a little careful there...

Also, I found this out almost the hard way, if you're jumping off the BH wearing a long shirt or coat with the tractor running be careful...My shirt caught the stick and the bucket/arm almost nailed me. Lesson learned.

I usually lightly put the FEL bucket in the ground angled at a 45ish degree angle and slightly lift/level the machine with the outriggers..The rear tires are usually only an inch or 2 off the ground on level. Never had an issue with that approach in 14 years.

Exactly...! I`ve used that method for over 40yrs, it worked this long, i`m not changing it.
Your BX should handle a 16in with no problem... my BX 16in scoop is the perfect size.

 

[katoomed00]

I've knocked down several big trees using a BX24. I found it easier to not cut the tree. Get an extension ladder and wrap a strap or cable around the tree as high as I can get it. Then dig around the tree, pile the dirt on the side of the tree where you want it to fall, use an electric chainsaw with a generator to cut the bigger roots (the saw turns much slower than a gas powered chainsaw and the chain will last a lot longer running it into dirt). Just add enough straps or cable to ensure you are far enough away when pulling it over. Pulling it over the pile of dirt will lift the stump out of the hole. Then backfill the hole so when you cut the stump it will still be easier to move it around. Also to pull the tree over I'll use the truck and 16' trailer, attach the strap to the trailer, so if there is any jerking needed the trailer will move and not put the stress on the truck. At the time all I had was the BX24, truck and trailer, now having the TYM it's much easier to knock over trees after being dug.

 

[Indian MC]

It may be fine if you have one or two small stumps that have been dead for several years.
I recently fell a dozen trees averaging 14" in diameter.
It didn't even cross my mind whether to dig them out myself with the backhoe on my new 2601.
Why beat the heck out of the machine for several hours / multiple days to dig out a few stubborn stumps?
You can rent a stump Grinder for one of two days and be done very quickly.
Sure, after several years you may get a dip in the ground from rot,,, Fill it in.

 

[TemporaryKubotaOwnerMark]

Exactly...! I`ve used that method for over 40yrs, it worked this long, i`m not changing it.
Your BX should handle a 16in with no problem... my BX 16in scoop is the perfect size.

I recently did a few hundred feet of French drain in heavy clay with a 16". Depth was from 18" to about twice that in some places. No problem at all.

 

[ruralwarrior]

The only thing i find disappointing with the BX23S is, is how fast you can dig with the BH... mainly because you`re gonna get tired of getting on an off the tractor & flipping the seat back an forth...lol. Make sure your steering wheel is fully tilted forward so the seat will clear it when flipping back an forth from BH to tractor position. And KEEP YOUR FINGERS CLEAR OF THE SEAT when locking it back into position both ways. And watch out for the little rear fender tool box, the seat CAN hit it if your not watching for it.

I just finished digging a dry well with 120 foot drain. You are correct, moving the seat again and again to move 3-5 feet forward to keep digging is a pain.

I found that if you apply the forward pedal when the seat is reversed, the tractor will stall. By design I assume.
Standing beside the tractor I was able to very gently apply the gas (front pedal) by hand and move the tractor without stalling. Works fine to move very slowly 3-5 feet only.
Probably not supposed to do this but I found it a great time saver.