BX25 3PT Modifications?

[Tractor Seabee]

Seems this thread got a little far afield, but just to finish up my comments on adding a hydraulic top link, I pulled the trigger today on a Prince dual-spool valve with, hopefully, all the fittings and adapters I'll need to add dual rear remotes to my BX25. I plan to plum it into the BH power-beyond loop to run the hydraulic top link I made up when I had the old BX1860 with the dual rear remote kit (which is not available for BX25). I will start a thread probably in the Hydraulics forum once the project begins. I will need to make up a mounting bracket that will attach to the ROPS and then measure and order hoses, so it will be a while before it's functional. Chow.

Oh, mostly for Artisan, my long run plans are to add the Thumb grapple to my FEL bucket and power it from the rear remotes with loooong hoses. Not the ideal solution, but this approach will let me use my old hydraulic top link to start.

Chris,

My Bota dealer has a kit (there own design) for the BX 25 FEL which a solenoid valve that switches from the bucket curl circuit to a grapple. There is a switch on the joy stick that you push and hold to run the grapple and when you release the curl is back. Greatly reduces a bunch of hoses running around. I will do the rear remotes same as you when I get around to building my logging winch.

I am building a set of trash forks that will fit where the bucket fits and then I plan to add that type grapple circuit. Just starting the project. Using a piece of 6" channel for the bottom pins and just settled on how to weld on the pin brackets. Will then make a series of attachments that will hook onto the channel and its structure. Trying to decide how long to make the forks. Maybe I will make a set of long ones and a set of short ones. The forks are 1 1/2 square tube !/4" wall. My goal is to have a set up that can be changed from bucket to ?? w/o using any tools. Will update as I go along. Probably start a new thread once I have something to report.

I plan the winch to mount on the BH mount so I have a solid connection to the frame instead of the weak link 3PT (another project) in the planning stage.

Ron

 

[CHDinCT]

Chris,

My Bota dealer has a kit (there own design) for the BX 25 FEL which a solenoid valve that switches from the bucket curl circuit to a grapple. There is a switch on the joy stick that you push and hold to run the grapple and when you release the curl is back. Greatly reduces a bunch of hoses running around. I will do the rear remotes same as you when I get around to building my logging winch.

Ron, that sounds cool and rather plug and play. I tried to get info and prices from my dealer on a 3rd function solution including a Fasse valve but they weren't much help for us BX owners. Artisan's aftermarket solution is very OEM too. I'm committed now to my rear remote solution for running the eventual thumb - first delivery of quick connects and some fittings came today from Discount Hydraulic Hose; the rest of it including the valve itself is coming from Surplus Center but hasn't shipped yet.

 

[Artisan]

Ron be sure to read my GrapplOmatic thread....It shows teh whole shootin match re that FASSE VALVE. If you want prices PM me and I will give you the guys tele number.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ron be sure to read my GrapplOmatic thread....It shows teh whole shootin match re that FASSE VALVE. If you want prices PM me and I will give you the guys tele number.

The set up by my dealer is the same as your Fasse valve, not sure they use that brand valve though. Also my grapple will attach the my new fork system. That system will attach on nthe FEL arms in place of the bucket. Brings everything closer to the tractor so I shouild see a weight capacity increase. I will also build a 2 fork attachment to go on the basic frame for lifting pallets, also a big weight lifting increaser. Let your imagination go wild on what all I could hang on this new frame. This is the poor man's solution to the one BXExpander has. I am trying to make my BX25 into a 30 HP tractor for FEL stuff. I am still trying to find the bushing stock for the three pins.

Ron

 

[radioman]

seabee, are you referring the the collar that you put clips in for pin? or just pins itself?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

seabee, are you referring the the collar that you put clips in for pin? or just pins itself?

No the bushings are the permanent piece (welded in place) the pins slide into the attach the item to the arms/cylinders. They are the lubicated joint.

Ron

 

[radioman]

why not just get a pipe and cut off what you need and weld in?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

why not just get a pipe and cut off what you need and weld in?

Pipe ID is too loose a fit for a lubricated shaft assembly, it would create too much play up and down on the pin.

Ron

 

[Artisan]

Whats' the OD of the pins?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Whats' the OD of the pins?

3/4" schd 40 is too large and schd 80 would have to be bored out. As I am weldoing them in I prefer at least 1/4" wall to p[revent distortion as they are 1" long and less. I have a speciality steel supplier looking for the right sizes of regular bushing stock whih also is harder than iron pipe and close to the same as the standard cold rolled tractor pins.

Ron

 

[bcp]

Could you use shaft collars? Put a grease fitting in place of the set screw.

Steel collar - Acme Power Tranmission Industrial Supply

Bruce

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Could you use shaft collars? Put a grease fitting in place of the set screw.

Steel collar - Acme Power Tranmission Industrial Supply

Bruce

That would work as a last resort as the bushing welded into the support piece and is anchored to the pin with a bolt to keep the pin from drifting. Fot the 1" long one I would just use two end to end. Most colars, as I remember, in that size are no more than 1/2" long. Its an option. The top pin for the curl cylinder is 1 1/8" Dia so may work there also.

All, thanks for the ideas. We will hit something this week one way or the other.

Ron

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Could you use shaft collars? Put a grease fitting in place of the set screw.

Steel collar - Acme Power Tranmission Industrial Supply

Bruce

You got me thinking. Ruland corp makes shaft couplings that are a lot longer than the collars. They are 1215 steel which is cold rolled bar stock same as the pins. I can cut to length. Thats the beauty of this forum, we get the solutions one way or another. Thanks all. If bushing stock is not available at a decent price I will go with the couplings. The screw holes can either be cut out by length or actually will not affect any thing.

Ron

 

[Artisan]

Ron I "might" be of help if you can give me the exact Outside Diameter of
the pins. Do you have a pair of calipers?

Is it;

.75"
.74"
.73"

or

15/16"
7/8"
13/16"
5/8"

or other?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Ron I "might" be of help if you can give me the exact Outside Diameter of
the pins. Do you have a pair of calipers?

Is it;

.75"
.74"
.73"

or

15/16"
7/8"
13/16"
5/8"

or other?

The FEL pins are 3/4 and 1 1/8 per my HF electronic calipers.

 

[Artisan]

The FEL pins are 3/4 and 1 1/8 per my HF electronic calipers.

Pipe ID is too loose a fit for a lubricated shaft assembly, it would create too much play up and down on the pin.

Ron

So, we have 2 different sizes to deal with, 0.750" and 1.125"

What is too much slop for you?
Rememeber that when you weld those bushings are going to move.
The tighter the tolerance the more perfect you must be welding.
OE builders have the luxury of a jig, unless you make a jig you might want
to keep it pretty loose. It may be plausable to use a long piece of DOM,
weld the brackets to it, THEN cut the tube afterwards. THAT would work
well I think, so long as your sawzall skills are up to snuff.

DOM tubing will probably work just fine for you. (Drawn Over Mandrel)

For the .0750 / 3/4" pins I might consider 1-3/8" OD x .250 wall x .875 ID.
.875 ID - .750 OD = .125" Slop, if centered .0625 all the way around.

For the 1.125 / 1-1/8" pins I might consider 1-3/4" OD x .250 wall x 1.25. ID
1.250" ID - 1.125" OD = .125" Slop, if centered .0625 all the way around.

If that will not work for you CLICK HERE and look for something tighter or looser.

If it is a BX25, I believe the FEL and BH are made in the states and I
believe it all to be US measurements, it is possible DOM tubing sized
METRIC might work if your not satisfied w/ my suggestion. I do not
know where to buy such and animal.

I am thinking out loud here for I will eventually want to make my own
something or other, be it a BH bucket etc. I would want to tap in some
zerks I think. I recently pulled some tiny lil threaded zerks and found
those tiny lil taps to be a pain, well, whoever originally installed the zerk
I was working on blew it and drilled to big. I drilled it out and obtained NPT zerks.
It worked MUCH better.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

So, we have 2 different sizes to deal with, 0.750" and 1.125"

What is too much slop for you?
Rememeber that when you weld those bushings are going to move.
The tighter the tolerance the more perfect you must be welding.
OE builders have the luxury of a jig, unless you make a jig you might want
to keep it pretty loose. It may be plausable to use a long piece of DOM,
weld the brackets to it, THEN cut the tube afterwards. THAT would work
well I think, so long as your sawzall skills are up to snuff.

DOM tubing will probably work just fine for you. (Drawn Over Mandrel)

For the .0750 / 3/4" pins I might consider 1-3/8" OD x .250 wall x .875 ID.
.875 ID - .750 OD = .125" Slop, if centered .0625 all the way around.

For the 1.125 / 1-1/8" pins I might consider 1-3/4" OD x .250 wall x 1.25. ID
1.250" ID - 1.125" OD = .125" Slop, if centered .0625 all the way around.

If that will not work for you CLICK HERE and look for something tighter or looser.

If it is a BX25, I believe the FEL and BH are made in the states and I
believe it all to be US measurements, it is possible DOM tubing sized
METRIC might work if your not satisfied w/ my suggestion. I do not
know where to buy such and animal.

I am thinking out loud here for I will eventually want to make my own
something or other, be it a BH bucket etc. I would want to tap in some
zerks I think. I recently pulled some tiny lil threaded zerks and found
those tiny lil taps to be a pain, well, whoever originally installed the zerk
I was working on blew it and drilled to big. I drilled it out and obtained NPT zerks.
It worked MUCH better.

Artisan,

I am not worried about set up or distortion if I use at least 1/4" wall bushings. I have a long piece of CR 3/4" shaft that I will use to line up all four bushings on the bottom connections. Also have a piece of 1 1/8 shaft to line up the curl connection. Waiting to hear on my inquiry on the bushing stock. If it becomes too big a hassel I will settle on using the shaft connectors I discussed earlier. That seems the best option so far. Being an old!! pipe fitter/welder I am confident in my welding skills to keep everything lined up and spot heat to bring alingment back if required. As I weld I will keep moving the line up shaft to keep it straight. I will use step reamers and a pipe reamer chucked up in my drill press to make all the holes . First hole will be 1/2" with all four (2) brackets oriented with each other and tack welded together. Then ream each individually. The pipe reamer will give me the bevel I need for full penetration welds starting out with 3/32 6010 for the root. I weld hotter than most so that root pass is key.

Will start a new thread as soon as I start taking pictures.

Ron