BX25 Full Cage Rollbar

[Artisan]

I APPLAUDE your posts NHMitch... ( and others.......... )
Thank YOU all...

THAT is what I call PASSION "."

I have a factory "ROPS" on my BX25. Kubota Co. sells a canopy #1133 I
believe that attaches to said ROPS and I would bet that attaching said
does not void any warranties to the OE ROPS system. It is quite the
substancial system...if I remember correctly, FWIW.

Maybe I titled this post wrong, maybe not, but my intentions are to start
thinking about adding a pair of "A" pillars+ possibly joining w/ the 1133
canopy bracket. If I flush out a lurker, or other, w/ pics, who has done it
prior, so I might learn from their "been there done that" knowledge THAT
would be great, alas to date I see nothing built to the standards "I" seek.

I remember that 1133 bracket as being substancial, built just like the
rops it is "if I remember correctly". From there a pair of "A" pillars down
to the FEL rear supports and afix w/ bracketry, again, no welds, no
drilling, just attach to... I will probably make it w/ an "X" or "H" system,
maybe both. I am POSATIVE I can enhance the safety aspect of the
BX25, I hope not for a huge wad of cash as well. I need to fall upon the
right ROPS system, again the OE ROPS may be the ticket. So if anyone
is reading this and if you have a BX25 ROPS you took off I might be
a buyer...

It will need a few things for added support. I may "X" the A Pillars and
throw in a horizontal bar just above the dash, or maybe both...

To date I have not seen anything built for a BX25 that get's my approval.
Nada, Zilch Zip... I have seen a few men make there idea of
a cage, not to my standars is all, they did good, I want to do better...

The end all may be finding a stock BX25 ROPS and modifying it into an
"A" pillar stiuation, used in conjuction w/ the OE unmodified ROPS and
canopy bracket, I mean w/o so much a even painting the OE ROPS, let
alone welding to it.

I think it can be done w/ simple bolt on bracketry. No welding to frame or
voiding any warranties. I saw what can happen personally and trust me,
"something" will be Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaayyyyyy better then nothing
for ROP and FOP AND side swiping branches...

I wish I were made of money, I am not so I have to do mountains of
research on stuff before I implement said ideas, and eventually I will do
something, when all the stars are aligned, it will happen, it WILL work.

Right now I need to make sure the wife has anough cash and the model
number for the canopy I seek seeings how my BD is coming up :thumbsup:

PS & FWIW; I refuse to buy into the train of thought that I
should bow to the Harvard or Yale taught designer / engineer at large and
go w/o, simply because they do not make what I want and indeed is
needed, buy my readings, wanted by a lot more folks than just me.

OK WHO WANTS TO MAIL ME AN OE BX25 ROPS! I'll pay shipping!

 

[swick1]

I think building your own canopy out of 1/8" aluminum with 3/4" of polystyrene bonded to it and maybe 1/8" plywood under that would be way better than the factory fiberglass canopy.

The problem I have with factory canopies is that they can't handle being rammed into a tree!

 

[Artisan]

I have not seen that, I have seen the BX25 1133 canopy and it is
ABS.

 

[swick1]

Maybe I need an orange canopy on my John deere then!

 

[bcp]

I wonder how a section from the floor of an old pickup bed liner would work, or a piece cut from a pickup cap/cover/canopy.

With appropriate frame, of course.

Bruce

 

[swick1]

Bcp, it would work fine. I chose bright aluminum for heat rejection. I don't like the black factory canopies for that reason. They also act like a loudspeaker with minimal insulation. I was also going to put an asphalt sound dampener under the alum.

 

[TCJatko]

"Honestly I think a lot of the perception of the magical powers of factory installed ROPS comes from the backwoods hicks who think they can build a ROPS of FOPS out of electrical conduit and JBWeld."

Uh-oh. Time to re-think my new ROPS plan.

 

[swick1]

I just rented w Jd 35d mini ex and the roof panel was caulked to the round roll cage. It had some dimples in it for stiffness and wasn't too bad sounding. Of course the engine was under my butt with rear facing exhaust too!

 

[lutt]

Some one may have said something about already,but you could get some ideas on cage construction by looking at tractorhouse online,just google tractorhouse, and search for tractors with forestry package, there are a few in the magazine version I have right now. Or you may google forestry package on a tractor. I know the local electric coop has them for bushhogging right a ways under power lines. I was cleaning up a fencerow with the backhoe one time and had a deadfall fall on the cab. So the concern for protection from rollover and debris is understood. Hope this helps. LUTT

 

[Artisan]

Thanx for the input lutt. Were down to less than 3 weeks and I should
have the canopy and serious thought / design will begin.

 

[swick1]

Sounds great. I'll build one too after my grapple bucket project is done.

 

[swick1]

Sounds great. I'll build one too after my grapple bucket project is done.

 

[ssrfenton]

Thanx for the input lutt. Were down to less than 3 weeks and I should
have the canopy and serious thought / design will begin.

Another reverse engineer option is to visit a few ATV/UTV dealers and check out the Polaris/Yamaha/Kawasaki....brands that have all the various ROPS design as OEM certified product. The steel gauge you select can be reversed per vehicle weight comparison...just a thought

Now having suggested this I have also seen if they work via YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. as there are a few destructive but unintentional crashes of MOVING vehicles. For a slow moving/stationary vehicle with an unknown falling load that may have to be compensated for. eg If a large tree limb falls horizontal vs vertical. Slight difference in surface pressure. Most if not all high impact auto systems use triangulation cross technique, again something to consider overhead for a vertical or concentrated weight fall. Something like an X shape across the roof welded to the vertical supports.

Good luck.

 

[ssrfenton]

Thinking about the high impact vertical load, maybe a cone style roof design that will deflect the overhead moving object to the side rather a flat roof design that must sustain all force and hopefully hold up??

 

[jim_wilson]

Another reverse engineer option is to visit a few ATV/UTV dealers and check out the Polaris/Yamaha/Kawasaki....brands that have all the various ROPS design as OEM certified product. The steel gauge you select can be reversed per vehicle weight comparison...just a thought

Now having suggested this I have also seen if they work via YouTube - Broadcast Yourself. as there are a few destructive but unintentional crashes of MOVING vehicles. For a slow moving/stationary vehicle with an unknown falling load that may have to be compensated for. eg If a large tree limb falls horizontal vs vertical. Slight difference in surface pressure. Most if not all high impact auto systems use triangulation cross technique, again something to consider overhead for a vertical or concentrated weight fall. Something like an X shape across the roof welded to the vertical supports.

Good luck.

If I had to make one suggestion for this whole project - it would be to spend some time studying how rollcages are designed for race cars. These cages are designed to handle the forces of an automobile - at high speed - making impact at any angle. I would think that following the general design tips you would use for an automotive rollcage would work just fine for a rollcage on your tractor that is designed to protect you from rollover (at relatively low speed) - and falling tree limbs.

The biggest thing you're going to have to try to figure out - is how to attach the rollcage successfully to the frame of the tractor so that it doesn't rip off somehow like the ROPS in that earlier post where the tractor flipped over backwards.

I have a tubing bender - and have built a couple of cages for street cars that built (hot rods) . For a rollcage for your tractor I would start looking at suppliers of cages for cars that have pre-bent tubing and all the other assorted brackets and reinforcements etc. that are generally used. If you can find a supplier of pre-bent tubing (rollcage tubing in general is 2" or 1 3/4" DOM ) . The DOM part is important - the welded tubing can crack and split on impact which compromises the safety of the cage.

Inspectors in the race world look at weld quality and tubing thickness. The SCCA rule books specify holes drilled thru tubing so the inspectors can check the wall thickness.

Triangulation is important. If you are creative you could triangulate the thing pretty nicely without infringing on the convenience and access points.

 

[Artisan]

Yea...shouldn't be too awfully hard to attach to the tractor. I have a
few ideas but till I have that canopy in hand I wait on most designing.
Were down to 13 days and I hit 54 /BD and I should have the 1133
canopy in hand.
I have built a few different roll bar parts. I own a tubing bender w/ hydraulic.
I have BEND TECH software as well.
I have some 1.75" tube in stock "if" I go that route. I still
have not rulled out getting a second BX25 ROPS and hangin' it off
the FEL uprights...I can draw in CAD so I can do a lot. Not going to
hurry...

I do remember that 1133 canapy as having a substancial support system.
I really can't wait to have it in hand.

 

[Djames55]

I have nothing to gain from trying to stop people from making their own safety devices, and I do not surf TBN to attack these threads. I just simply cannot stand to see people die from very preventable mistakes. I am sure that I could make a seatbelt that may work from tying a piece of rope in a knot around my waist., but why take that chance?

There are plenty of implements that you can make at home, and fabricate yourself that will turn out great.. This has nothing to do with people complaining on TBN about homemade ROPS. Gary, you make good arguments and you have very good points and again, this is not an attack on what you are saying, however there have been multiple extensive research studies into the use of homemade ROPS, and all of the data strongly suggests against it. The physics of a tractor are different than that of a car, and you are not comparing apples to apples.

Again, if you want to make ROPS, or a cage for yourself, than that is completely up to your discretion, however in the case of this article, a 14 year old lost his life because someone felt very confident that they made a safe set up. NIOSH FACE Program: Iowa Case Report 03IA020 | CDC/NIOSH

Again, we are all adults, and you can take what ever chances you want, but just remember that if your farm has employees, it is illegal to have a non-certified ROPS on your tractor for any employees to operate. If you make one, and some dies, you could also be found negligent. I understand that he is making a cage, and has a certified ROPS, but I have been to fatalities, and they are ugly. To me, it is just not worth taking the chance, or suggesting that some else takes that chance.

This is from the investigation into the 14 year olds death, and I think that we can all agree that that was an absolute tragedy, and I am sure that who ever built that set up, only had the best intentions.

ROPS appear simple and relatively easy to make, but they must have appropriate structural strength to absorb the energy and provide protection in the specified envelope in case of an overturn. Manufacturers design and test ROPS according to the ASAE 383.1 standard1, but it is not feasible for individuals to do so. The rollbar on this tractor appeared to be built very well by a qualified welder. The rollbar itself did not suffer significant damage in the overturn. However, the mounting of the rollbar was insufficient and the forces from the overturn broke the axle housings. It is not known if this self-made rollbar would have stayed intact if mounted according to the manufacturerç—´ specifications (see Diagram). Self-made rollbars are often thought to be better than nothing for overturn protection. However, without testing, the adequacy of a self-made rollbar is questionable. Given the complexities in design and testing, it is recommended that ROPS be built only by manufacturers who can ensure that the ASAE standard requirements are met.

Just for informational purposes and not for the sake of this discussion, if you do have employees,

The law regarding ROPS is:

A ROPS used on wheel-type tractors shall meet the test and performance requirements of 29 CFR 1928.52, 1928.53, or 1926.1002 as appropriate
These are the outlines for a ROPS test, and you have to follow the lengthy tests that are outline in IAW 29 CFR 1928.52
Protective frames for wheel-type agricultural tractors -- test procedures and performance requirements. - 1928.52

W = Tractor weight (see 29 CFR 1928.51(a)) in lb (W' in kg);
Eis = Energy input to be absorbed during side loading in ft-lb (E'is in J [joules]);
Eis = 723 + 0.4 W (E'is = 100 + 0.12 W');
Eir = Energy input to be absorbed during rear loading in ft-lb (E'ir in J);
Eir = 0.47 W (E'ir = 0.14 W');
L = Static load, lbf [pounds force], (N) [newtons];
D = Deflection under L, in. (mm);
L-D = Static load-deflection diagram;
Lmax = Maximum observed static load;
Load Limit = Point on a continuous L-D curve where the observed static load is 0.8 Lmax on the down slope of the curve (see Figure C-5);
Eu = Strain energy absorbed by the frame in ft-lb (J); area under the L-D curve;
FER = Factor of energy ratio;
FERis = EuEis;
FERir = EuEir;
Pb = Maximum observed force in mounting connection under a static load, L lbf (N);
Pu = Ultimate force capacity of a mounting connection, lbf (N);
FSB = Design margin for a mounting connection; and
FSB = Pu/Pb

LOL at this. Talk all the safety you want. But you need to take a good look at the safety of your Bolens tractor with all that weight on the front end. That little tractors not made for them big weights. If that tractor rolled over them big weights would come back on top of you. Know way that tractor is designed for that much weight on that little bumper. I wish you would take them off and use the tractor with implements that it is designed for. If you have to add that much weight to front what you have on the back must be to big for the tractor. I see people all the time trying to use a to of a small tractor for the work they need to do. In your case if you need all this extra weight you need a bigger tractor. See how this works. You have a very dangerous setup there and others that may not know could see this and do the same thing and get killed. I wish you would remove the picture of the tractor or better remove the big weights for your safety. Just because they make a weight that big don't mean you can put it on a riding lawn mower does it?

 

[NHmitch]

LOL at this. Talk all the safety you want. But you need to take a good look at the safety of your Bolens tractor with all that weight on the front end. That little tractors not made for them big weights. If that tractor rolled over them big weights would come back on top of you. Know way that tractor is designed for that much weight on that little bumper. I wish you would take them off and use the tractor with implements that it is designed for. If you have to add that much weight to front what you have on the back must be to big for the tractor. I see people all the time trying to use a to of a small tractor for the work they need to do. In your case if you need all this extra weight you need a bigger tractor. See how this works. You have a very dangerous setup there and others that may not know could see this and do the same thing and get killed. I wish you would remove the picture of the tractor or better remove the big weights for your safety. Just because they make a weight that big don't mean you can put it on a riding lawn mower does it?

Wow????

1. Your response has nothing to do with this older post, or to what I was discussing about safety, and ROPS. If you don't like what I was advocating, instead of making very inaccurate claims about my tractor, or how safe my set up is, with no valid information, other than very rude assertions. If you are assuming that my knowledge comes from just owning this tractor, than you are wrong.

2. My tractor was actually rated for far more weight on the front than what I have, and came standard with more weight than this, but the weights are oversized because of their design. I am not sure that you know what you are looking at.

3. Iseki/Bolens tractors are designed for Cat 1 implements, and I have no issue using them. These are not by any means "riding lawn mowers" like you quoted. They are not a full size tractor, but they have a long history around the world in agricultural farming, and 200lbs of counter weight on a one ton tractor, is not by any means, over-rated.

4. ANY weights that are attached to the front of a tractor, in a roll over can come off, and strike an operator, however to suggest, that you should not use them in order to counter balance your center of gravity and risk a roll over is irresponsible on your part, and finally,

5. I am not sure why I even responded to you because having no educated discussions with you in the past, a post like this tells me that you are lurking, and looking to create issues. If you want to join a discussion, and make an educated point, then have your facts straight, and stick to the discussion. Please don't accuse me of risking others members life's, because of you baseless claims. All of the posts that I responded to in this thread were educated, and I respect the posters opinions in each one, however I question your intentions. Enough said.

 

[jim_wilson]

Yea...shouldn't be too awfully hard to attach to the tractor. I have a
few ideas but till I have that canopy in hand I wait on most designing.
Were down to 13 days and I hit 54 /BD and I should have the 1133
canopy in hand.
I have built a few different roll bar parts. I own a tubing bender w/ hydraulic.
I have BEND TECH software as well.
I have some 1.75" tube in stock "if" I go that route. I still
have not rulled out getting a second BX25 ROPS and hangin' it off
the FEL uprights...I can draw in CAD so I can do a lot. Not going to
hurry...

I do remember that 1133 canapy as having a substancial support system.
I really can't wait to have it in hand.

Sounds like you have it under control!

 

[ssrfenton]

If I had to make one suggestion for this whole project - it would be to spend some time studying Inspectors in the race world look at weld quality and tubing thickness. The SCCA rule books specify holes drilled thru tubing so the inspectors can check the wall thickness...............

Triangulation is important. If you are creative you could triangulate the thing pretty nicely without infringing on the convenience and access points.

Good point, and also one item that is continually overlooked on a rollover situation is the occupant restaint system PLUS cage netting to prevent arms, hands being thrown outside the gage and potentially being crushed...or worse. Watching those side by side UTV rollovers on youtube just goes to show you how fast and unexpected things can happen.