charliepff
Silver Member
I was wondering where you bought you Rear Aux. Kit? I can not seem to find them online.
BX7326 Rear Aux. Kit (install)
- Thread starter actionaj
- Start date
- Views: 98061
CHDinCT
Veteran Member
I couldn't either, but I think it's because this is a kit and not a part per se, so it's sold through a dealer's sales department vs parts. I'm pretty sure if you call the dealer, like Messicks for example, they can give you a price and order it for you.
CHDinCT
Veteran Member
Purchased the BX7326 auxillary hydraulic kit from Messicks about two weeks ago and finally had the time to install it yesterday - sorry, no PICs yet, but I'll get some soon. I finished about 5:00 yesterday and didn't have the confidence to start it up to check for leaks yet. I didn't have crowsfoot wrenches which would be real helpful for tightening some of the connectors at odd angles. So, I'm going to give it a go tonight if I get home at a decent hour and see what's what.
I missed one partial step in the instructions. There's a plug in the kit that requires two o-rings on either side. One of he o-rings is "thin" and the other thicker. Missed the step to ensure I put the thin o-ring on the threaded side of the pipe connector. So now I'm not sure if I have them right. Will find out tonight - fingers crossed! All the pipe connections require an 18mm open end wrench. If any are loose, I'm gonna try torching my current wrench and bending it to about 45*. If that doesn't work, I'll have to get a set of crowsfeet wrenches. Haven't put the tire back on yet, so I can get some PICs before I do that.
My only other issue is the levers are a very tight fit and rub a little on the plastic lever guides. In a perfect world, I'd disconnect them, do a little bending on the vise and reinstall. I'm gonna try leaving them as is for now and see how much the rubbing annoys me. All in all a nice kit - just not a lot of room for wrenching all the connections.
OP
actionaj
Gold Member
My levers were tight to and rubbed the sides of the fender console. I made some guides out of delron and pop rivet to the sides of the levers. This kept it from rubbing so bad and wearing out the plastic sides. The slick delron slides a lot smoother than the steal arms. I thought I took some pics. but I wasn't able to find them if I do I will post them. Can't wait to see your pictures of your install CHDinCT.
CHDinCT
Veteran Member
Thanks actionaj. If it wasn't for your thread, I wouldn't have known Kubota offered this kit for the BX. I think it's a great value for $300 and makes for a nice OEM looking install.
Good news, fired up the tractor last night and no leaks so I got lucky with that o-ring install. Went to take some pic's but the camera battery was dead - I will get to them as soon as I can, though it looks just like your install.
Next up will be a hydraulic top link. I'm debating putting it together from Surplus Center stock or calling CCM to get a quote. Which way did you go actionaj?
Good news, fired up the tractor last night and no leaks so I got lucky with that o-ring install. Went to take some pic's but the camera battery was dead - I will get to them as soon as I can, though it looks just like your install.
Next up will be a hydraulic top link. I'm debating putting it together from Surplus Center stock or calling CCM to get a quote. Which way did you go actionaj?
OP
actionaj
Gold Member
CHDinCT, I went with the CCM top link with no regrets great company to do business with. I would not know what to do without a hyd. top link now, makes all you implements much more versatile.
CHDinCT
Veteran Member
Here are some pic's of the install. I'm working on parts I'll need for a hydraulic top link but I'm also going to get a quote from CCM too, then decide which way to go. My current top link is 14" closed and 21" fully extended. I plan to hook up my rear blade and rake to get a sense of the max tilts with the current TL, but from memory I think I can use a shorter TL at times. I can't rotate the blade or rake 180* without hitting the 3PH linkage unless the TL is fully retracted and even then it's close, so maybe an inch shorter would be helpful - we'll see. Actionaj, what size TL did you end up getting if you don't mind me asking?
Attachments
OP
actionaj
Gold Member
CHDinCT, Nice job on the install, this kit is one slick set up. My CCM top link is 14.5" retracted and 20.5 extended works well with all my attachments.
extrapairofhands
New member
Hi - a UK Newbie here. My 2350 seems to have the kit on and I have just bought a 3ph hydraulic logsplitter. Have finally matched up all the connectors and can get thte splitter to work by holding the one tractor lever open at the same time as the lever on the splitter. Likewise to return the ram.
Couple of questions:
Am I damaging the tractor hydraulics in any way - it doesn't seem the right way to be doing this.
Is there anything I can do so that I can just use the lever on the splitter as it is obviously designed?
Many thanks
Couple of questions:
Am I damaging the tractor hydraulics in any way - it doesn't seem the right way to be doing this.
Is there anything I can do so that I can just use the lever on the splitter as it is obviously designed?
Many thanks
CHDinCT
Veteran Member
I have the same set up and use it with a 3PH splitter. You are not damaging anything beyond maybe fatiguing the spring in the valve by holding it open. Think about your FEL valve with float position. That valve is made so you can keep the boom circuit open indefinitely to allow the bucket to ride up and down over the ground, or the same with a plow, for example. Same principle for your rear remotes. One thing to note is that while the valve is held open feeding the splitter, you will loose pressure to the FEL and (don't recall for sure) maybe the 3PH. I would not worry about any damage hooking it up the way you have, or spending extra money to hook it into a powerbeyond loop.
