BX7326 Rear Aux. Kit (install)

[CHDinCT]

Nice job. It looks like they replaced the metal pipe that routes around the back of the tractor under the top link bracket with a hose. In my old kit, they included a new metal pipe for the pressure in connection to the new valve vs the hose, not that it necessarily matters. Probably easier to line up a hose than the pipe, plus I recall them having some issues with that pipe sealing correctly on some BXs.

What are your plans for a top link? I ended up just getting a swivel eye cylinder from Surplus Center. It's a little shorter than the oem top link (19" vs 21" IIRC) when fully extended. I could use those extra two inches, but I couldn't find a cylinder that length that would work and all of the aftermarket "true" hydraulic top links where even shorter at about 18" fully extended. Maybe you'll have better luck.

 

[Kerton]

Chris,

As for the rubber hose I have at the rear, nice catch. They kit did have a metal tube for that, but my BX already had a rubber hose running there, so I just re-used it. I'm not sure why I had the hose, but my BX was a demo unit that Kubota was apparently taking to trade shows for a year, and had a bunch of accessories on it that I never saw. It had 8 hours on the engine, but had still been around the block.

--Anyone have any ideas why I had a rubber hose, and what it was used for?

For Hydraulic Top Link (HTL), I have searched far and wide, and not found much that is perfect. My OEM top link is 14.5-21.5", and 17" is where the implement is level. I prefer the ability to pull in closer rather than push back further, so after much digging, I've settled on pretty much the same as you. I'm about to order a 2X6X1.25 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES from Surplus Center for $125. It has 2" bore, and goes from 13.5 to 19.5. The swivel eyes will fit, but I will have to put a bushing on my .75" pins to bump them up to 1", which is what the cylinder's swivel eye hole is. However, I am waiting for a call from CCM to give me a quote on a cylinder kit with hoses. Everything takes so long in this industry...this ain't no amazon.com shopping.

The link I am looking at from Supply Center is not one of these "check valve" ones, so there will be some creep. I don't care much, but I think I will put a needle valve on it so I can lock it. I am also still wondering about the 1.5" bore cylinder with a 13.25"-19.25" length. All the ball sizes are perfect on this one.

--- Can anyone tell me if 1.5" will be strong enough?

Thanks, and I hope my install photos helped. I certainly appreciate those that posted their photos earlier on this thread.

 

[CHDinCT]

I suspect you have a hose in place of the pipe due to leakage where the pipe connected to the HST pump. As I mentioned, Kubota had a run of bad pipes I believe that wouldn't seal properly and in some cases they switched people out to a hose with an o-ring (the pipes use a flare-type fitting IIRC).

On the top link, I'll have to check which one I bought, but I don't recall having to get bushings. Of course it was about 4 years ago, so their offerings may have changed. When I considered what length I needed, the research here suggested the shorter length was more important than the longer length, but I find that with mine at it's shortest length, some of my implements barely touch the ground (e.g. boxblade), and that I can't use the box blade to smooth as much as I'd like since it only tilts back so far. I've had fleeting thoughts on some kind of top link bracket extension, but just vague thoughts to this point. Curious what CCM come back with for price and size for you.

 

[CHDinCT]

Found the Surplus Center e-mail order confirmation in my archives. Looks like I bought the 1.5" version. It has held up fine with no bending, etc. Like you said, with no check valves, the weight of the implement, when raised, will slowly extend the rod over time. The heavier the implement, the faster it leaks down.

1 9-7258-6 1.5X6X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVE $85.95

 

[Jeff F.]

I also am using the 1.5" cylinder. If there is any creeping, I do not notice it unless my wood carrier is full and I am not moving it for awhile. I never noticed it with my box blade but that might be as I am adjusting it

 

[Kerton]

Of course it was about 4 years ago, so their offerings may have changed.

That would be "lightning fast" for what I can tell of shopping in this tractor supply industry. Not much changes year over year. It takes days not hours to get answers from vendors, and it takes weeks not days to get parts delivered.

Speaking of which...I spoke with CCM on Wednesday to see what they could offer me (since they advertise Hyd. top links, but say "call" for details). They said they would call me back next day with a quote. That was three days ago. At the prices they charge (they ballparked me upper $200s), I'd expect them to be more motivated.

My dealer also sucked. Slow to return all my calls (even from before I bought it), sold me a tractor that had a seat that fell off in the first 30 minutes of use (seat bolts all fell off), seat was mounted incorrectly too far left, so rubbed paint off fender, oils were low, top link was missing. I bought industrial tires from them one week later, and had a similar terrible non-responsive interaction. They are 45 minutes away, too. I am done with them.

Can you read my frustration? I've had my tractor for 3 months, and a pile of money burning a hole in my pocket to customize it...but nobody seems to have information, answers, prices, fast delivery, etc. Once again, thanks to you all here on this forum, and a couple of other forums, who actually help a fella get an answer.

 

[Kerton]

By the way, here's one of the useful things I wanted the rear aux hydraulic kit for. I welded up some extra mounts for my BXpanded bucket forks, and moved them to the rear onto my quick hitch. Now I can forklift on the back or the front, but the back is stronger, and makes for more maneuverability. Pic is of me lifting 850 lb of flooring (I had to split the pallet they dropped off in two :-( or I could not lift it). Anyway, when I get the hydraulic top link, this forklift will work even better.

 

[CHDinCT]

Nice mod being able to use your BXpanded forks on the 3PH. I also have his forks, but no rear quick hitch, otherwise I might do the same. Instead, I picked up one of those Tractor Supply carryalls for a bit over $100 and put some PT decking on it to use for firewood hauling. The hydraulic top link is great for keeping a load on the carryall. I've moved big rocks and was even able to dump them off the carryall by just extending the top link.

As far as getting answers to your questions, 99% of the time, you'll get better and faster answers here. Just hope you don't have to make any warranty claims given your dealer's responsiveness so far.

 

[Kerton]

Well, I've done more work on my Rear Hydraulic project. I didn't really like the way the kit had the Quick Disconnects (QD) out on the plate, and then they stuck out another four inches...and then if you plug hoses in, even with 90 degrees, they stuck out a total of about 7 inches. This was going to get smushed by my Quick Hitch sooner or later. So I ordered more 90 degree elbows, and re-mounted the QDs pointing off to the side of the tractor. Much better for clearance. These photos show you that job, and the top link in action.

 

[Kerton]

Regarding the top link choice:

Thanks to CHDinCT, I decided not to get the shorter link (13.25-19.25") he advised was smaller than he wanted. I went one size up to the one that goes from 15.25 to 23.25" with an 8" stroke. That turned out to be good advice, as I can still pull it in a little too much, especially with the 3PH raised. Since I used the longer top link, I just drilled another pin hole in my upper Quick Hitch further back from the tractor. I can switch to this pin hole on jobs when I really want to tilt an implement forward -- but it will require attention not to pull it in *and* raise it...or smush!

But I stayed with the 1.5" bore as suggested by people here. Turns out 1.5" is plenty strong, and will easily handle any task the rest of the 3PH can handle, so a larger bore would just a) act more slowly because of the 6GPM hydraulic rate, and b) possibly generate too much force which would only break things. If you run the calcs on my 1.5" cylinder at 1,850 psi, the push force is 3,269 lbs and the pull force is 1,816 lbs. My stock 3PH could not lift a 1,000 lb pallet, so the top link is already stronger.

Here are the parts anyone would need to complete the Hydraulic Top Link project on the Aux Hydraulic on a BX2670:

Surplus Center:
a 1 of 9-7258-8 1.5X8X1 DA HYD CYL SWIVEL EYES 99.95
b 2 of 916-1424 1/4" X 24" 1/4 NPTM X 1/4 NPTM 2750 PSI HYD HOSE 13.30
c 4 of 9-5502-4-4 1/4 NPTM to 1/4 NPTF 90 ELBOW 11.20
d 2 of 9-6806-6-4 SAE 6M x 1/4" NPTM 90 ELBOW 4.30

Discount Hydraulic Hose dot com
e 2 of 702-04-04S 702-04-04S | 1/4" Male Coupler x 1/4" NPTF Female (Steel) $8.04
f 2 of 702-04C 702-04C | Dust Cap for 1/4" Male Coupler $2.04

Amazon dot com
g - Loctite 37482 545 Pneumatic/Hydraulic Thread Sealant Bottle - 36 ml $26.41

Notes on parts:
a - this is the hydraulic cylinder. It has swivel ball eyes at both ends and is a perfect fit for the tractor and the top link pins
b - pick your hose length. this the right length for me, also could go 6" more, but no shorter.
c - these are the elbows that you should install in the Kubota Hydraulic kit Quick Disconnects as I pictured above. This keeps them from sticking out.
d - these are the elbows that will mate your cylinder a, to your hoses, b.
e - Since Surplus Center didn't have the right Quick Disconnects, I got them from discounthydraulichose.com
f - the dust caps protect the QDs when they are apart, and connect to the OEM ones on the hydraulic kit when plugged in (see photos above)
g - I read enough advice to NOT use teflon tape on the NPT threaded connections. Use the Loctite - it's way easier and works perfectly. It's made for this job.

Random Advice:
- NPT threads seal by deforming the threads tightly against each other. Thus, they are not made for re-use. Try to get them right the first time, and use the loctite.
- That said, "get it right" is tricky. The hoses will stay in very different places depending on the routing you make, and the twists they have in them. I sure didn't get it right at first!
- Dry fit your parts (finger tight) and then make final connections in place.
- You could copy my hose routing from the photos above if you used the same size hoses and parts. It works well up/down/in/out, and stays out of the way.
- Install the cylinder HOSES DOWN!!! Or suffer the inevitable consequences of bending your extend-side connector and hose.
- Probably obvious, but cylinder on tractor, rod side on implement.
- From what I read, and experienced, there is no air bleeding necessary, just cycle through a few times to clear out air.
- Check your hydraulic oil after, you may need a top-up.
- Don't EVER pull all the way in and all the way up, or you'll smush something. This is kinda a time bomb. You're responsible.
- Buy the Loctite. I know. You don't want to. It's expensive. Just do it.