cab build

   / cab build #31  
Is mcmaster carr the best place to buy weatherstripping for the doors?
They are the most wonderful company to deal with! They offer a pretty good selection for weatherstripping and I would go with the bulb seals also.
 
   / cab build #32  
And amazing fast shipping too. I often get items the next day, even when ordered mid-afternoon.
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#33  
As I wait for the body shop to paint my cab I am looking into a cab heater. I have a curtis tuck away heater but dont have the install kit for it. I just priced the install kit from our local Deere dealer and it is expensive. Has anyone put an aftermarket heater on their JD 2305? If so can you post pics of how you connected it into the coolant system?
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#34  
I got part of the cab back from the body shop today.
 

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   / cab build #36  
As I wait for the body shop to paint my cab I am looking into a cab heater. I have a curtis tuck away heater but dont have the install kit for it. I just priced the install kit from our local Deere dealer and it is expensive. Has anyone put an aftermarket heater on their JD 2305? If so can you post pics of how you connected it into the coolant system?

Nice looking cab. Congrats!

About 3 years ago I installed a heater in my Kubota and we are nearing the time to install one in a homebrew Montana cab at work. Both of these use the bypass connection at the stat and are piped (hosed) to the heater in an H arrangement using off the shelf components. If your tractor has a bypass like these do, it should be easy.

For heating, the engine coolant enters the bottom of the H on one side and runs straight up through the heater core and returns to the engine down through the other side of the H. There's a valve in the horizontal part of the H that is closed for heating and makes the coolant flow through the heater.

When heat isn't needed the valve in the horizontal is opened and valves in the upper part of the H are closed so the coolant flow is through the bottom half of the H only and not through the heater core.
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#37  
Looking for a little advice on the cab I built two years ago. It has worked out very well with the exception of the window adhesive. The lexan window keep coming loose from the doors. What would be the preferred adhesive to use on lexan to steel?
 
   / cab build #38  
Have you tried the black urethane caulk that auto glass guys use to glue in most auto windshields? Buddy of mine, 25+ years in the auto glass installation business, used the urethane to put lexan in as windshields in pipeline equipment where subject to impact damage, seemed to work great. Sticks like crazy to everything, clothes, fingers, paint glass, etc..

Local glass shop might sell you a tube, or find it online.
 
   / cab build #39  
Have you tried the black urethane caulk that auto glass guys use to glue in most auto windshields? Buddy of mine, 25+ years in the auto glass installation business, used the urethane to put lexan in as windshields in pipeline equipment where subject to impact damage, seemed to work great. Sticks like crazy to everything, clothes, fingers, paint glass, etc..

Local glass shop might sell you a tube, or find it online.

Autoparts should have it.
Also an all weather construction caulk is about the same product and much less costly.
In Canada we have a brand called FLEXTRA and I can vouch for its adhesive qualities.

Standard caulking gun tube runs a tad over $5.00 (Cdn) and they have 20 or so colors.
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#40  
I tried a product I found at the local hardware store called Lexal. The hardware guy said it worked great on Lexan and Steel.
 

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