GPintheMitten
Elite Member
- Joined
- Sep 8, 2009
- Messages
- 3,331
- Location
- Flushing, Michigan
- Tractor
- Kubota B2620 with BH65 backhoe, Ford 2N
Nice.
cab build
- Thread starter Drtumolo
- Start date
- Views: 20242
PILOON
Super Star Member
On my DIY cab I acid etched, primed and used Tremclad enamel.
Still looks great many years later.
Consider using windshield adhesive to 'glue' your windows on, be it glass or Lexan.
Front, however should be safety glass if you plan to use a wiper.
Still looks great many years later.
Consider using windshield adhesive to 'glue' your windows on, be it glass or Lexan.
Front, however should be safety glass if you plan to use a wiper.
I dropped off the cab at the body shop yesterday. Going with a sprayed on black bed liner coating for the the main frame and doors and John Deere green epoxy paint for the roof. Decided to use lexan on all the windows except the front will be real safety glass so the wiper doesn't destroy it.
Posters commenting about lexan scratching is bunk. Sure if you take a sharp object and apply pressure it will scratch but normal use and abuse it will be fine. The real advantage of lexan for DIY projects is its reasonably priced and the savings of being able to cut it yourself with common power tools such as a router. Ive had my homebuilt cab for a couple of years now and the Lexan shows no sign of wear or scratches.
tman1020
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2014
- Messages
- 1,467
- Location
- north west indiana
- Tractor
- Bobcat ct225 and Bad Boy zero turn
Make sure you look at some ways for some soundproofing in your cab. You will be surprised at how loud it is inside there when you add all the glass. I would consider spraying some soundproof undercoating or some of the rubber sound observing material that you can stick on and then adding some type of soundproof fabric over that in the areas that are steel.
PILOON
Super Star Member
On my DIY cab I foresaw the fact that a flat metal roof would drum and echo noise.*
I was fortunate in that I had a padded, quilted fabric (also fireproof) that had been used in aircraft.
I used contact cement to adhere it to the roof panel before attaching it to the frame, in fact is is permanently sandwiched between the roof and frame.
Proved very effective and played a major role in insulation as well as isolation.
For my floor I used 1/2" foam pads that they sell as exercise mats often in box stores. The material is tough, anti skid and 1/2" is a very effective insulation.
*Large aircraft metal skin areas are major noise transmitters as well as conductors. The panels simply drum from vibration.
I was fortunate in that I had a padded, quilted fabric (also fireproof) that had been used in aircraft.
I used contact cement to adhere it to the roof panel before attaching it to the frame, in fact is is permanently sandwiched between the roof and frame.
Proved very effective and played a major role in insulation as well as isolation.
For my floor I used 1/2" foam pads that they sell as exercise mats often in box stores. The material is tough, anti skid and 1/2" is a very effective insulation.
*Large aircraft metal skin areas are major noise transmitters as well as conductors. The panels simply drum from vibration.
tman1020
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2014
- Messages
- 1,467
- Location
- north west indiana
- Tractor
- Bobcat ct225 and Bad Boy zero turn
Your welcome. It's looking good so far.
chim
Elite Member
McMaster Carr worked for me twice. It's where the weatherstripping came from three years ago for my build and a week or so ago for the Montana. They have lots of different styles and sizes. On the Montana there will be one type for the top and front of the door opening and another for the rear.
Edit to add: Here's a place to start. I used the Edge Grip Rubber Bulb Seals on the Kubota. On the Montana we will be using that type in another size and Soft Foam Rubber Seals (on the hinge side only).
McMaster-Carr
Edit to add: Here's a place to start. I used the Edge Grip Rubber Bulb Seals on the Kubota. On the Montana we will be using that type in another size and Soft Foam Rubber Seals (on the hinge side only).
McMaster-Carr
Last edited:
Mysfyt
Platinum Member
They are the most wonderful company to deal with! They offer a pretty good selection for weatherstripping and I would go with the bulb seals also.
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
And amazing fast shipping too. I often get items the next day, even when ordered mid-afternoon.
As I wait for the body shop to paint my cab I am looking into a cab heater. I have a curtis tuck away heater but dont have the install kit for it. I just priced the install kit from our local Deere dealer and it is expensive. Has anyone put an aftermarket heater on their JD 2305? If so can you post pics of how you connected it into the coolant system?
tman1020
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2014
- Messages
- 1,467
- Location
- north west indiana
- Tractor
- Bobcat ct225 and Bad Boy zero turn
Looking good. I like the lights.
chim
Elite Member
Nice looking cab. Congrats!
About 3 years ago I installed a heater in my Kubota and we are nearing the time to install one in a homebrew Montana cab at work. Both of these use the bypass connection at the stat and are piped (hosed) to the heater in an H arrangement using off the shelf components. If your tractor has a bypass like these do, it should be easy.
For heating, the engine coolant enters the bottom of the H on one side and runs straight up through the heater core and returns to the engine down through the other side of the H. There's a valve in the horizontal part of the H that is closed for heating and makes the coolant flow through the heater.
When heat isn't needed the valve in the horizontal is opened and valves in the upper part of the H are closed so the coolant flow is through the bottom half of the H only and not through the heater core.
dieselcrawler
Elite Member
Have you tried the black urethane caulk that auto glass guys use to glue in most auto windshields? Buddy of mine, 25+ years in the auto glass installation business, used the urethane to put lexan in as windshields in pipeline equipment where subject to impact damage, seemed to work great. Sticks like crazy to everything, clothes, fingers, paint glass, etc..
Local glass shop might sell you a tube, or find it online.
Local glass shop might sell you a tube, or find it online.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Autoparts should have it.
Also an all weather construction caulk is about the same product and much less costly.
In Canada we have a brand called FLEXTRA and I can vouch for its adhesive qualities.
Standard caulking gun tube runs a tad over $5.00 (Cdn) and they have 20 or so colors.
Here are some similar links:
