cab build

   / cab build #11  
Chim, could you email me some pics of how you handled the foot area on your cab?

Here's how it was done. The tube steel trapezoid is part of the left cab wall. It's welded to that part of the cab frame, and isn't fastened to the tractor. Then the floor mat is a piece of cow mat from TSC that is sufficiently rigid to bridge the small gap.

The shape of the fenders and floor of the tractor is such that it narrows toward the front. I ran the cab walls straight for two reasons. The shape of the cab being tapered in on the top half already added a degree of difficulty for the door fab, and keeping the cab as wide as the outside of the fenders made it quite roomy. There are times I reach for the grab handles and with the cab walls outboard of the fenders they are still accessible.
 

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   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Thanks. That is what I was envisioning.
 
   / cab build #13  
My cab is also a DIY unit.
The floor boards were letting in more cold than I wanted.
My solution was to use the interlocking floor foam floor mats sold in Wallmart as they are about 1/2" thick foam rubber and easy to trim to fit. I made a paper pattern first.
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Ok after a week in the garage I have a cab framed up and almost ready for paint. I am getting a glass windshield cut by a local glass shop but think I am going with lexan or plexiglass for the other windows. Where is the best (cheapest) place to buy?
 
   / cab build #15  
I bought a piece of Lexan at a hardware store for the part of the cab that swallows the hood. It seemed like too much of a job to get glass cut into the odd shapes. I paid around $70 for some 1/8" that was around 16 square feet. I can't remember where the post was but I read one within the last day or two from a guy who bought some very thin Lexan and I think it cost about half that much for a 4x8 sheet.

EDIT TO ADD - Found post:

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/348322-i-can-see-clearly-now.html

I like glass because of the scratch resistance. I can take a dry rag, glove or whatever and wipe dust off if it gets too hard to see through. If you have your mind made up to use a plastic material in lieu of glass, the guy at the hardware store told me that Plexiglass doesn't scratch as bad as Lexan, but it shatters easier. After using Lexan to cover a couple forklift roofs I was sold on its durability and decided to risk some scratches. We used our big hydraulic press brake to bend angled rain lips on the Lexan. We drilled it and bolted it to clips for fastening. The darn stuff is almost indestructible
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#17  
I am not sure how to add pictures to this thread.
 
   / cab build
  • Thread Starter
#20  
I attached a few pictures. Still trying to decide between powder coat, paint or spray on bed liner for the finish. I am also waiting for glass prices vs lexan.
 

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