Car lift in garage

   / Car lift in garage #51  

3Ts

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Mine seal well enough to heat and cool my shop. I actually thought they sealed really well until you told me they don't. I wouldn't put anything else up. They take up almost no overhead room and the best part is the operators.
12'4" may be enough. My Bishmon lift takes almost 13' but it has a top crossbar. I use a photo eye to protect the tops of vehicles.
There are roll up doors and there are roll up doors. I have seen ones that seal well and thought that they all were that way. However, I had a roll up door installed that when it was down there was a gap between the door header and the door itself of about 8". (Big enough to let birds fly in.) Not at all what I thought I was paying for.
 
   / Car lift in garage #52  

workinonit

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Interesting. My door track extends well above the door header so that when the down pressure on the door flexes the door it seals at the top. Now mine aren't insulated, I didn't even know you could get them that way when I bought mine years ago. I think some of the door quality may lie in the installation.
 
   / Car lift in garage #53  

Alien

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Having used car hoists all my life, I will be installing a 4 poster with free wheeling when I build my shed. This is because they are more stable and don't require as heavy a concrete base. 2 posters require a more expensive concrete mix and thicker base.
If I was younger I may have considered a scissor hoist but my back is too damaged for working under them now.
 
   / Car lift in garage
  • Thread Starter
#54  
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Pettrix

Pettrix

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So it looks like I will do one garage bay in 4,500 psi concrete with 6" deep concrete for the 2 post lift. The other bay will be 4,500 psi with 4" deep concrete for the 4 post lift.
 
   / Car lift in garage #55  

Alien

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Got mine finished before Christmas. No hoist yet as I'm renovating the house at the moment.


Barn.jpg
 
   / Car lift in garage #56  

JJT

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So it looks like I will do one garage bay in 4,500 psi concrete with 6" deep concrete for the 2 post lift. The other bay will be 4,500 psi with 4" deep concrete for the 4 post lift.
Pour both bays 6", you will not regret spending a few hundred extra.
 
   / Car lift in garage
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Pettrix

Pettrix

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I read that BendPak is a really good hoist/car lift company to buy lifts from.
 
   / Car lift in garage #58  

scaredychicken

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We had an attached 30 x 30 double garage / large deck built about 8 years ago. I was at work when the concrete was poured, so I have no idea how thick the concrete floor is. (?) The 2 bays are suitable for vehicles, they have standard 8 x 12 ft doors, but I never considered putting a hoist in previously. Not sure if the concrete is thick enough.

My BX23S with ROPS and canopy, backhoe up fits into the garage also, so the clearance is there.
The headroom is 9.5 - 10 ft
Sideroom is 24 inches on ends, and there is also a mandoor between the garage doors / bays.
Depth of garage is 30 ft

One of my mechanic friends has a low 2 post hoist (unique height, 8 ft ? not sure of brand, common brand, blue ... Atlas maybe) in his reno'ed commercial garage in town, that he is considering replacing... I've been thinking about making an offer as I think that it may work in my garage (ceiling clearance of about 10 ft). I believe that it has a 6,000 lb lift capacity, fine for my needs.

my option may be one of those portable lifts that can be moved to the side when not in use. that may be easier on the floor.

thoughts ?


1659658827441.png
 
   / Car lift in garage #59  

MossRoad

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So it looks like I will do one garage bay in 4,500 psi concrete with 6" deep concrete for the 2 post lift. The other bay will be 4,500 psi with 4" deep concrete for the 4 post lift.
As someone mentioned, why not go 6” everywhere. You’ll have to have 2 different grade levels to make, and it’s a lot easier to put rebar on chairs in 6” of concrete VS 4” of concrete and have it remain in the middle of the slab depth. The cost of the additional 2” of concrete in one bay will be minimal compared to the total scope of the project cost.

We just went through this 2 years ago when I built a garage addition. 2x4 forms VS 2x6 forms to give 5.5” of concrete depth. Same amount of work leveling pad, setting forms, amount of rebar, chairs, wire ties, everything. Only additional cost was 2” of concrete.

24’ x 24’ slab at 3.5” thick = 6.2 yards.
24’ x 24’ slab at 5.5” thick = 9.8 yards.

We paid about $150 per yard, so that additional 2” was around $400 additional. Great value for the price.

We re-used the 2x6 forms in the framing of the garage, so they were basically free, as would 2x4 forms.
 
   / Car lift in garage #60  

MossRoad

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In other words, for every 1” additional depth of concrete you want to add to every square foot, it takes about 0.0031 cubic yards of concrete.

So figure up how many square feet you are doing, multiply that by 0.0031, and that tells you how many more cubic yards of concrete you’ll need for each inch added.

Say your bay is 10 x 30. That’s 300 square feet.

300 x 0.0031 = .93 cubic yards for 1 additional inch.

1.86 cubic yards for 2 additional inches.

1.86 X $150 = $279.

Hope that helps.

Good luck with your project.
 
 
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