Case 310G Dozer - Rebuild/Repair Project and Questions

[aczlan]

Something else I'm planning on address is the electrical system. When I went through and documented everything, I found that the only thing that the generator was connected to was the voltage regulator - and the voltage regulator wasn't connected to anything! No wonder my batteries died quickly! I'm planning to replace the generator with an alternator. Do you happen to know what might be a good alternator to use? I've googled some stuff about it and a Delco 1100170 (or it's equivalent) pops up a lot. I'm assuming I may have to make a bracket to adapt the longer generator mounting to a shorter alternator. My only real concern is that the space where the generator/alternator will mount is between the engine and the upright stanchion that holds the blade lift cylinder (mine has a 4 way blade).

Thanks.

I have one of these alternators on our 1960s David Brown project: ACDelco 334-2114 Professional Alternator, Remanufactured https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C9NN5S/
Under $50 and it's a 3 wire alternator, so it needs 1 wire to the key, 1 wire to your fuse block (to sense voltage at the fuse block) and 1 wire to the battery (or in our case, to the positive lead from the battery at the starter).

Aaron Z

 

[MtnViewRanch]

As far as an alternator, what I remember is getting one for a 1969 Camaro. Super easy to make the new mount and wired in easy. Should have no problem for any interference issues. :thumbsup:

 

[EddieWalker]

I don't know anything about your model Case dozer, but will comment on my Case dozer engine and a few things that I learned when I rebuilt my engine. Case is really bad about supporting older equipment, so it's hit or miss on what they have or don't have anymore. My engine is a Cummins, but in order to buy parts for it, everybody wants the serial number off of the block. Napa said that they are unable to get parts for my engine and that I could only get them from the dealer. They told me what their rebuild kits sold for, so I had an idea what I should pay when going to the dealer. I was very surprised to learn that the Case dealer was cheaper then Napa. I also learned that buying a new turbo from the dealer cost less then having one rebuilt by a specialty shop in Waco. The parts guys at Case where fantastic. The mechanics in the shop where also fantastic. They copied pages and pages from their manuals on what to do, what to torque everything to and pretty much every single thing that they could think of on my engine. I had the very distinct impression that they did not want to have to do this and went out of their way to provide me with everything that they knew of to help me do it and keep it out of their shop!!!

I built my own tool for pulling the sleeves. That was something new to me that I had never done before, or even knew about.

I used the loader on my backhoe to pick up the cylinder head. It was way too heavy for me to get off of the block and into my truck.

I posted pictures of what I was doing on here and was really saved by a huge mistake by one of the guys here in something that I did, that I shouldn't have done. I forget what it was, but i remember it being significant.

This was my one and only diesel engine that I ever rebuilt. I've done about ten car engines, but mostly when I was in my teens and 20's and thought that was fun. Now I hate wrenching on stuff.

Here is the link to my project.
https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...welcome-my-nightmare.html?highlight=Case+1550

 

[rtimgray]

Hi Eddie-

Thanks for the link to your project. I can remember perusing that when it was going on and thinking "Wow, what kind of dummy would work on his own dozer?" Now I know..

...at any rate, my dozer isn't half of what yours is. Mine is a lot more akin to working on a 30 horsepower tractor, in terms of size of components and scale. With the blade, hood, grill and radiator off, everything is pretty accessible. I'm planning to strip all the accessories of the engine and then use my loader and a chainfall to get it out of tractor, then into the small pump house that has electricity, light and heat.

I don't plan on making an engine rebuild my vocation; I'm just hoping it ends up being a project that I learn something from and have a usable dozer when I'm done.

Thanks again. Good luck and take care.

 

[rtimgray]

It was a beautiful Christmas day (70 degrees F and sunny, so I decided to work on the dozer a bit. I managed to get the pump house (what's going to be my workspace) cleaned out and an engine stand on site. I looked for the full 310G manual that my friend thought he had, but came up empty on that. I may just have to order one. Anyway, here's my progress and question:

I pretty well got everything removed off of the engine - air cleaner assembly, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, starter, generator, fuel filter assembly, all fuel lines, hydraulic pump and a lot of minor odds and ends. I bagged and labeled everything that came off and made notes in my notebook - nothing was really difficult and it seems reassembly shouldn't be too bad, although the fuel lines from the injection pump to each injector are like spaghetti (in their shape - they are all rigid lines) and that will take some patience to get them all placed back where they go.

Now the issue/questions:

I was getting ready to remove the injection pump and wanted to check the timing as I was cautioned to. I rotated the engine until (I think) I have No. 1 cylinder at top dead center. The manual says both push rods should be loose (they are) and the exhaust rod of No. 2 cylinder should be loose (it is). It also says to open the flywheel inspection window and look for the marks on the flywheel - I opened the window, and can see the indicator pin, but I can't see any marks of any kind.

Also, the injection pump is located directly behind the front stanchion that holds the lift cylinder for the dozer blade. I can't see what is in the inspection window of the injection pump because there's no way to get a clear look, even with a mirror.

So can I remove the engine with the injection pump on it? What about the timing marks on the flywheel - is that critical?

Right now, I'm going to stop and think about this for a day and look again tomorrow. Maybe the light was just bad or maybe my eyes are. Sometimes a little time helps.

But I would welcome any suggestions regarding this.

Thanks for the help.

Good luck and take care.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If your not sure about the inj. pump timing.. thats not a good start..
If your not sure about being on #1 compression stroke.. & theres no marks on the flywheel & u cant see the marks inside the inj. pump..
I'd say your probably not on the compr. stroke.??
U can prob. pull the engine w/o pulling the inj pump.??
Did u use sand paper on the flywheel to try to get any #'s up.??
I would leave the pump inplace for now.. that thing is the heart of the engine.. if u get that wrong & everything else right.. its not gonna run/start.. & that leaves u 2nd guessing everything u did..

 

[rtimgray]

I'll get some help to keep rotating the engine and keep checking the flywheel. I'm not in a hurry and I don't want to take things apart just for the sake of taking them apart.

I may wait until I get the full manual for a 310G and see if it is helpful also.

And just to clarify - the whole point of checking this is to confirm the timing of the pump relative to engine - is that right? So that when I re-install everything, I set the No. 1 cylinder to TDC and put the pump on in the same position is came off in - correct?

Thanks again.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

The only thing I know about the 188 is, they have a nasty habit of putting a rod through the block. I've seen quite a few dead ones with a rod out.

That was corrected with the up-grade to 207, and the 207 has more power too.

Anyway, good luck with your rebuild.

SR

 

[rtimgray]

All right - some good news to report (I hope).

I took a fresh look at it this morning and removed the access panel on the bottom of the bellhousing/clutch housing/whatever it's called). I used a wire brush while my son turned the cranked and I had to clean off about 1/8" of gunk from the flywheel, and sure enough I found some markings on it. I also removed the instrument panel/hydraulic tank/floorboard so that I could get a straight-on look at the access hole in the bell housing. We put the engine to Cylinder 1 TDC like we did yesterday, and then turned it to 8 degrees past. At that point we pulled the access window off of the injection pump and my son used his phone to get a picture, and sure enough the timing lines were lined up. So it looks like my pump is timed at 8 degrees above TDC like it shows in the manual. After that, we removed the injection pump and put it with the injectors. With that accomplished, I removed the 6 bolts that hold the clutch to the flywheel and then we removed the 4 bolts in the bellhousing and one up front that holds the engine to the crossmember.

We used one of the tractors with a fork attachments and some straps and were able to pull the engine out of the bellhousing and frame pretty easily, then got it settled onto the engine stand.

I have a ton of cleaning to do, both on the engine and on the crawler. Almost every surface of the engine has about 1/8" to 1/4" of grime on it (because my radiator has had multiple leaks over the years and the coolant splashed off the fan and all over the engine, and the dust settled on that). I'm also planning to thoroughly clean the frame and undercarriage of the crawler and make any repairs I need to while it's all accessible.

I believe my next steps are going to be to remove the oil pan and remove the head and see what I find inside the engine.

Also - does anyone know where to find a radiator for this model Case? I've searched and googled and yahooed and haven't found much, including searching my different manufacturer part numbers. The only one that I've located was about $1,600. I'm going to check a couple of radiator places and see if mine can be repaired for a reasonable cost. If anyone knows where to find a new radiator, I'd love to know.

Anyway, it will probably be a bit before I have a lot more to share, but thought I'd get that update on here.

Thanks for the help and advice.

Good luck and take care.

 

[aczlan]

Radiator place should be able to fix it if it just needs to be recored or the ends need to be patched.


Aaron Z