Chain saw safety

[jimpen]

The other thing that is important with safety equipment is that it is feels normal and comfortable to wear. Otherwise it makes you awkward and off balance.

Way back in the 80's I was in the USAF and would get assigned to the occasional weed & seed duty. Cut the grass, edge the sidewalks, and use the new string trimmers. They would always give out toe shields for those not wearing steel toes, eye protection and ear protection. The only thing I would wear was the ear protection. The eye protection would cause my glasses to fog up so I couldn't see what I was doing. The toe shields would leave me freeing unbalanced.

So having safety equipment is good, but the actual use is better.

 

[arrow]

What is odd for me is I cut wood professionally for 30 years. I retired from that 20 years ago while still producing my own firewood and cutting for others the entire time and to this day. I have more fear in my heart now than I ever did as a logger and I'm not sure why. I never had a "bad" accident but have seen men die. I had a knack for spotting trouble before hand and I still bring this trait to the woods even now as a tree felled can be just as dangerous as a standing one. But lately, (last couple of years) the hair on the back of my neck raises when I step into the wood like never before. Maybe its the feeling that my odds are running out or all the 9 lives have been used up.

 

[Redneck in training]

Guys, are you saying that cut branches high in the tree in sandals and shorts is a bad thing? Well I used to do that when I was much younger and still bulletproof. People used to say: Ask the crazy neighbor he will cut it for you.
Now I have and use chaps, steel toe boots, helmet with face shield, gloves and ear mufs. And there is one more advice I developed in a habit. When walking with the saw I always set the chain brake and pull it back only when ready to cut.

 

[dieselcrawler]

One of my saws has a chain break that's very touchy... but how often it has stopped the chain made me realize its a good thing. One of my other saws chain break is so tight I do t know if it would do much good. I dont use that saw much. Check your chain break regularly, one of meny factors that could save yer hide.

 

[Coyote machine]

In response to the various errors in handling chainsaws, whether running or not, here are some things to consider to change bad habits.
Before moving from a cut in a log or tree immediately hit the brake to stop the chain. When walking any distance engage the chainbrake and put the saw in your left hand with the bar/chain facing behind you. Put a scabbard on the chain and bar to further prevent injury if one trips, falls, etc.
Also, engage the chainbrake whenever starting the saw and release it once the saw begins to run. The brake may wear out slightly earlier than it would have otherwise, BUT if it keeps one from getting cut it's well worth the effort. On average a chainsaw chain moves at 88 feet per second, = 55-60MPH. There is no way to avoid the teeth at those speeds, UNLESS one catches the teeth in the chaps, which slows the momentum of the chain and reduces or eliminates the potential cut/damage.

 

[arrow]

You know, as I'm reading this again my experience tells me otherwise and I'll give an example that astounds me to this day. I had /have the ability to look at a tree situation and spot a life threatening situation. I cannot take credit for this as I am simply wired this way. This "gift" was to the extent that loggers who were in the woods cutting for 20-25 years would call me over to see if I could spot a problem as what i previously saw saved many a guys' ***. That being said, and not saying so to brag but more to the fact that no matter who you think you are or how good you are, **** happens. I'll never forget the day after I had just dropped a large oak (24" dbh) and it was sitting on the ground for 7 or 8 seconds and I was knocked on my *** by an almost 3" thick branch that literally came from no where. Fortunately I had a helmet on but it hit so hard that I still had a bruise. To this day I do not know where this branch came from. Best I could figure is that when the tree came down, it either whipped another tree or a branch broke off and spun high in the air after ground impact so high that it took as long as it did to strike me. I heard a whirring sound and saw at the last moment "the branch". The odd part is, this branch did not come from straight up but approached me at an angle and hit me just over the brow. This happened over 20 years ago but I remember it like it was yesterday. Now if we go by the original premise; then JD would be correct that this accident was caused and the cause was me taking down the tree. If we go by something else, it could very well be that sometimes a person cannot foresee everything and no matter how careful, one can still get dinged or worse. Lets face it; its just a very dangerous activity. I've seen accidents caused by ignorance and stupidity and rushing. I have also seen accidents happen with the unforeseen. It may be an activity that no matter what you think you've covered or how you've prepared, there always lurks a surprise caused by a freak of nature.

 

[hslogger]

echoes of previous posters..... With a career in the PNW behind me, I can tell you when they introduced chaps as a law it was a pain in the butt and many were resistant to their use, including me. I can tell you and others without any question, if you are gonna run a saw buy the best chaps there are, wear them, keep them handy and don't lose em. Wear good gloves with out rips and holes in them, I prefer heavy cotton gloves. If you are gonna be working in the woods, absolutely wear a brain bucket. When I go out cutting something for some one or myself now adays, I always wear my gear with out fail. It became part of my routine, ie uniform, uniform and prescription for safety.

 

[Redneck in training]

echoes of previous posters..... With a career in the PNW behind me, I can tell you when they introduced chaps as a law it was a pain in the butt and many were resistant to their use, including me. I can tell you and others without any question, if you are gonna run a saw buy the best chaps there are, wear them, keep them handy and don't lose em. Wear good gloves with out rips and holes in them, I prefer heavy cotton gloves. If you are gonna be working in the woods, absolutely wear a brain bucket. When I go out cutting something for some one or myself now adays, I always wear my gear with out fail. It became part of my routine, ie uniform, uniform and prescription for safety.

It i slike in any profession. You should have, beside of knowledge and skills, all tools and equipment for your job. When you bring your saw, axe sharp and wear safety equipment to the job you are projecting competence as opposed to sloppiness and incompetence.

 

[Tollster]

I've been handling a pocket knife all my day too, doesn't mean I won't cut myself in the future.

 

[JDgreen227]

Not trying to breathe new life into my own thread, but wanted to share something with others: To me, the most dangerous cutting I do with a chainsaw is when I have a mass of branches on the ground and need to remove the small stuff prior to cutting up any thing big enough for real firewood. I have a complete hearing loss and therefore my balance is poor at best, and it's very easy to stumble over the small branches which are underfoot after trimming. I REALLY enjoy cutting up the big stuff, but the small crap takes up so much of my time to clear out from underfoot so I don't trip over it, it's a real PIB. I already tripped twice today because I was in a hurry...but no harm done because I was letting the saw idle down before I moved to another spot. Oh...I was wearing my new chaps, but they are still pristine, although muddy in spots.

Back to the cleanup now....thanks for listening...I will try to be more careful the rest of this afternoon and I hope you will be, too....either today, or the next time you start up a chainsaw.

 

[TomSeller]

Not trying to breathe new life into my own thread, but wanted to share something with others: To me, the most dangerous cutting I do with a chainsaw is when I have a mass of branches on the ground and need to remove the small stuff prior to cutting up any thing big enough for real firewood. .

Totally agree with this. Add a slope to the ground and rain and it is very, very dangerous.

 

[mark02tj]

To me, the most dangerous cutting I do with a chainsaw is when I have a mass of branches on the ground and need to remove the small stuff prior to cutting up any thing big enough for real firewood.

First let me say that I don't have nearly as much chainsaw experience as a lot of you guys. I've run a saw since my late teens, but it used to be a little bit here and there, often with a few years between even having to fire up my saw. Three years ago I moved to a very wooded property and have used my saw more since than in the 15 years previous. Like JDGreen, I don't like cutting the little crap with my chain saw. I'm thinking about getting a good battery operated reciprocating saw (aka SawzAll) to do this. I figure that it will be safer and quieter and I won't have to keep shutting off and restarting the saw while cutting branches then moving/chipping them. Any comments on that idea?

I don't have chaps or a helmet yet, but have been planning on getting them. This thread has reinforced that plan!! In addition to clearing a lot of brush, I also have a lot of ash that need to come out so I will be using the chainsaw a lot over the next couple of years.

 

[radioman]

I've used many chainsaws over the years ...almost exclusively Stihls ...but when I bought a new one, recently, I discovered what, to me, is a safety glitch ...Stihl bills it as a "feature" ... it's the soft start feature ...pulling the cord doesn't directly start the saw, it "accumulates" energy, which is then released to start the saw. The "feature" is you can pull the cord like a lazy man and the saw will then start energetically ! But, there is a (variable) lag between when the cord is pulled (and returns) and the saw "decides" to start.

If find this disconcerting, if not dangerous ...but, then, I'm from the old (equally dangerous) "drop start" school. ( yeah! I hear you)

My father picked up one of these new fangled saws. I tried using it and I really dont like the soft start. He had it for over 5 years i think and its already falling apart. He has to take the pull start apart to put the clips back in to start. I like the old school stuff - and thankfully they still make em. I think I'll hang on to my super XL a little while longer.

 

[Redneck in training]

First let me say that I don't have nearly as much chainsaw experience as a lot of you guys. I've run a saw since my late teens, but it used to be a little bit here and there, often with a few years between even having to fire up my saw. Three years ago I moved to a very wooded property and have used my saw more since than in the 15 years previous. Like JDGreen, I don't like cutting the little crap with my chain saw. I'm thinking about getting a good battery operated reciprocating saw (aka SawzAll) to do this. I figure that it will be safer and quieter and I won't have to keep shutting off and restarting the saw while cutting branches then moving/chipping them. Any comments on that idea?

I don't have chaps or a helmet yet, but have been planning on getting them. This thread has reinforced that plan!! In addition to clearing a lot of brush, I also have a lot of ash that need to come out so I will be using the chainsaw a lot over the next couple of years.

We are using long handle multiple strokes shears to cut branches.

 

[TomSeller]

I think using a big saw with a long bar adds a lot of danger when trimming branches. The long bar increases the possibility of coming into intact with a branch you don't see and the big saw head is heavier and can snag on a branch as well. Not to mention a big saw can do a lot more damage with the power it has and the longer bar.

I use a little 30 cc Stihl for trimming. A little short 10" or 12" works best. If any branches can't be cut with a 12" bar, you can use your bigger saw for that cut. The smaller saw is less fatiguing as well making it safer.

 

[arrow]

I think using a big saw with a long bar adds a lot of danger when trimming branches. The long bar increases the possibility of coming into intact with a branch you don't see and the big saw head is heavier and can snag on a branch as well. Not to mention a big saw can do a lot more damage with the power it has and the longer bar.

I use a little 30 cc Stihl for trimming. A little short 10" or 12" works best. If any branches can't be cut with a 12" bar, you can use your bigger saw for that cut. The smaller saw is less fatiguing as well making it safer.

Yes and no Tom. It depends on the size of the branches and "sprung" aspects of a fallen tree. Many times I wished for 4' long arms and was glad to have a 36"-48" sometimes for "trimming". One did not want to drop a thousand pound "branch" at head high and be anywhere near its fall. Depending on the canopy support, a branch like this could move a couple of feet right at you instead of dropping straight down. The "yes" part I agree wholeheartedly with is that a big saw is more of a handful for the normal user and thus in general, support your assertion as most of us are not getting involved with such situations.

 

[arrow]

We are using long handle multiple strokes shears to cut branches.

What is this tool Ladia?

 

[Redneck in training]

What is this tool Ladia?

The shears a have a ratchet mechanism so you have to close and open the handles several times to make a single cut. But you can cut quite large branches with less force.

 

[JimRB]

Fiskars 24 in. Titanium Anvil Ratchet Lopper-66806966J at The Home Depot
Loppers / Products | Fiskars

 

[JimRB]

Here is the page that has a video of opening your root beer bottle with a ratchet cutter. Ratchet Lopper (27") / Products - Buy Online (Price $47.99) | Fiskars