Chains - Quick Question

[aeblank]

I'm hoping santa will bring me a set of tire chains this year.
They're pretty spendy, naturally.

I put the V-bar ladder on my list, cause it is what my dad got.
The non-v-bar (but still ladder) is $100 cheaper for the rears alone. Naturally the fronts are a bit cheaper too.
So, for a set, perhaps $450 instead of $640-ish.

17.5-24 Tire Chains

I'm in an L3940 with R4 tires and a 72" front mount blower. I do ok enough without chains, but have to do one section of my driveway downhill-only. Sometimes turning is iffy, and I need to raise the blower, I suppose. Also struggle a bit when I widen our seasonal road that has gotten narrower all year from (someone else) plowing. Though again, I manage.

So..... Is the V-bar a requirement, or is the standard ladder also a large improvement?

Thanks!

 

[George2615]

If you are snow blowing or plowing on any hard pack or ice or on hilly driveways then v-bar chains will give you the most traction. V-bar will bite better than ladder chains. Most of my plowing is on level or a slight incline. I have standard ladder or the rear and V-bar on front to give me better bite for steering. Anytime there is the hard pack or ice chains will help give the bite you need to continue plowing instead of spinning the tires. Rear ballast also helps.

 

[arrow]

I'm hoping santa will bring me a set of tire chains this year.
They're pretty spendy, naturally.

I put the V-bar ladder on my list, cause it is what my dad got.
The non-v-bar (but still ladder) is $100 cheaper for the rears alone. Naturally the fronts are a bit cheaper too.
So, for a set, perhaps $450 instead of $640-ish.

17.5-24 Tire Chains

I'm in an L3940 with R4 tires and a 72" front mount blower. I do ok enough without chains, but have to do one section of my driveway downhill-only. Sometimes turning is iffy, and I need to raise the blower, I suppose. Also struggle a bit when I widen our seasonal road that has gotten narrower all year from (someone else) plowing. Though again, I manage.

So..... Is the V-bar a requirement, or is the standard ladder also a large improvement?

Thanks!

Depends on how steep the hill is. Ladder chains work well on ice even if the hill is at 45* grade (or a bit more than 20 degree slope) Otherwise, I do not think so especially if the fronts are 2 link. Chains are a game changer for the better and that includes just regular ladder.

 

[dave1949]

V-bar is probably worth it. For true ice coatings I think it would make a big difference.

Every now and then we get rain on snow followed by cold air. I could ice skate on the driveway--well I could if I was younger and wouldn't fall and break my butt. :laughing: With that kind of hard ice when I drive on it with my 3/8" studded chains all you see is little pits where a stud landed on the surface of the ice. That's what the tractor is traveling on. I'm not sure if regular ladder links would work near as well in that situation.

If your drive is asphalt or concrete, regular ladder chains will not mark it as much or maybe not at all.

 

[arrow]

V-bar is probably worth it. For true ice coatings I think it would make a big difference.

Every now and then we get rain on snow followed by cold air. I could ice skate on the driveway--well I could if I was younger and wouldn't fall and break my butt. :laughing: With that kind of hard ice when I drive on it with my 3/8" studded chains all you see is little pits where a stud landed on the surface of the ice. That's what the tractor is traveling on. I'm not sure if regular ladder links would work near as well in that situation.

If your drive is asphalt or concrete, regular ladder chains will not mark it as much or maybe not at all.

They work Dave but I'm not gonna say they work as well. Ladders also leave little "pock marks" where the chain is actually imbedded into the ice. The op stated that he has only some inconvenience w/o chains and is why I figured the ladders would work real well for him without having to go through the expense of v-bars.

 

[dave1949]

They work Dave but I'm not gonna say they work as well. Ladders also leave little "pock marks" where the chain is actually imbedded into the ice. The op stated that he has only some inconvenience w/o chains and is why I figured the ladders would work real well for him without having to go through the expense of v-bars.

That's a good point. He probably doesn't need aggressive chains, just a bit of help.

Our old house driveway was about flat. Some asphalt, some stone. I didn't need or own chains there on the same tractor as now. I used to leave the backhoe on and that weight helped with traction.

Current driveway has a long, continuous slope, and sloped away on the sides too.

 

[k0ua]

Depends on how steep the hill is. Ladder chains work well on ice even if the hill is at 45* grade (or a bit more than 20 degree slope) Otherwise, I do not think so especially if the fronts are 2 link. Chains are a game changer for the better and that includes just regular ladder.

I tend to agree with this, my chains are not the V bars, they are the aquiline talons, and the bars are flat, but they work well on ice. Night and day difference between them and no chains. I am sure other designs could be even better, but even here with my steep hills, I get along fine with the aquiline's on just the rear, and I tap the steering brakes when steering becomes iffy via the front tires. One of the hills I have is a pain to walk down in the summer as it is so steep and gravel covered.

 

[aeblank]

Thanks for the replies guys. My driveway is sand/dirt. Eventually it will be gravel. It's 800 or 900' long, too.
I noticed last night that my biggest problem is turning. Going up my one hill (maybe I need a level app on my phone and see how steep it is), I could do it with my diff lock on. But I am still scraping down into the sand, so that was giving me good traction, too.

Anyway, the moral of the story is that I'm strongly considering ladder rears and v-bar fronts.
Probably like the difference between snow tires and *good* snow tires. Any snow tire is a huge improvement, and then smaller improvements with better tires.

 

[aeblank]

tirechains.com the best place to go?
Trying to trim some $ off of the vbars.

 

[k0ua]

tirechains.com the best place to go?
Trying to trim some $ off of the vbars.

I went to these guys.

Tire Chains by TireChainsRequired.com

 

[oosik]

I had V-bar both front & rear when I had the Ford 1700. They provided - "climb-a-tree" traction but also were a pretty rough, cobbie ride. They kept the Ford going in a straight path and never lacked for traction when going up/down the valley in my driveway. I have found, fortunately, that I do not need chains with the Kubota. I can only imagine the expense of V-bar chains on all four for the Kubota - and the FUN of installation of the rear chains.

 

[aeblank]

$635-ish. Yeah, bit hard to take. And they'll be all sorts of "fun" as well.
My dad has a set for his L3710, which is my only frame of reference.
He hates them, but loves them.

 

[dave1949]

$635-ish. Yeah, bit hard to take. And they'll be all sorts of "fun" as well.
My dad has a set for his L3710, which is my only frame of reference.
He hates them, but loves them.

Me too. :laughing:

It takes me about 2-3 hours to mount my chains working at my own leisurely pace and getting sidetracked here and there along the way. But, I pick my day and I'm inside.

It's much better than dragging tow chains and a come-along to the tractor through deep snow hoping there is a decent size tree close enough for the chains to reach. Or, thinking just maybe the pickup would be enough to help get the tractor moving and end up with both stuck. Those "learning experiences" made me a believer in good chains.

 

[arrow]

tirechains.com the best place to go?
Trying to trim some $ off of the vbars.

They are pretty helpful there. Inquire about "square-link" chains for the fronts and see if they're cheaper than v-bar. They may be all you need. Be sure to get 2 link for the fronts. They may come like that anyway but it's best to check.

 

[arrow]

Me too. :laughing:

It takes me about 2-3 hours to mount my chains working at my own leisurely pace and getting sidetracked here and there along the way. But, I pick my day and I'm inside.

It's much better than dragging tow chains and a come-along to the tractor through deep snow hoping there is a decent size tree close enough for the chains to reach. Or, thinking just maybe the pickup would be enough to help get the tractor moving and end up with both stuck. Those "learning experiences" made me a believer in good chains.

You must be a "futtzser" Dave. There is no better day dreamer than me and I get my chains on in under a half hour.

 

[dave1949]

You must be a "futtzser" Dave. There is no better day dreamer than me and I get my chains on in under a half hour.

No way I'd get my chains on in a 1/2 hour. I do futz. :laughing: I could do it in around an hour if I stayed on task and everything went well.

This year I made some minor changes that took some angle grinder cutting time. I decided to get rid of the ladder sections that were hanging free, two per chain. They have a u-hook on the free end like they could be hooked in the binder chain links. I've always kept them on thinking someday I would understand what they were good for. It was a pain tucking them in so they wouldn't rub on the fender wall. I decided they were totally useless and cut them off which took eight separate cuts. I take the time to put keeper wires on the four binder u-strap screws too.

 

[vtsnowedin]

I have got to put mine on tomorrow. I had been putting it off while hunting and doing other things but the weather says no. We had tracking snow for opening day but not enough to plow. That got packed down into ice and today we got a good three inches of fluff on top of it at 16 degrees f. Three inches shouldn't be any problem with four wheel drive and diff lock right? Not exactly!! Not only could I not plow up hill I had trouble going up hill with the plow off the ground. I had to pull over into the shoulder where traffic had not iced it then use diff lock to keep both rears spinning. Got it done though plowing down hill but tomorrow I'm spending a couple of hours putting my chains back on. We have the technology!

 

[George2615]

You must be a "futtzser" Dave. There is no better day dreamer than me and I get my chains on in under a half hour.

I put my chains on last weekend and did all 4 in under a half hour.
I figure it takes Dave 2-3 hours to put his chains on because he is only using one hand. The other one is holding his beer.

 

[dave1949]

I put my chains on last weekend and did all 4 in under a half hour.
I figure it takes Dave 2-3 hours to put his chains on because he is only using one hand. The other one is holding his beer.

You guys are a tough crowd. :laughing:

I spent at least a half hour sweeping up all the dust and dirt around and under the tractor. Had to move my stall mats first, then put them back where the tractor gets parked after sweeping.

Before sweeping I had to back the truck out and drive the tractor out. Heck that's 4 minutes right there. And then it was time for a break. :laughing:

 

[George2615]

You must be a union man.