Snow Attachments Chains

[flingwing1969]

I'll never go back to ladder chains after this winter we had.

View attachment 545618

Great photo. You have to get that framed.

 

[sailingsolo]

thanks to all the comments and the consenous is ice chains, which i was leaning towards. they seem to display constant gripping as opposed to a grip-slip with the link snow chains.

aren't toys fun to play with?

 

[Peter 315]

Did you make the deal on the tractor yet ?

 

[rd_macgregor]

I made a mistake to save a couple of hundred dollars and ended up with grip-slip jerkiness and really rough ride down the lane...go with the ice chains and continuous chain contact with the ground; it is definitely worth it.

 

[sailingsolo]

the dealer says no to front chains because kubota says no, rear chains only, yet i see pictures on here with kubotas and front chains. anybody had any problems with front chains on their kubota or is my dealer being very conservative?

 

[Piston]

No problems with front chains on mine, although it's only been a season, but I'm not concerned at all.

Since the font tires are always turning slightly faster than the rear tires when in 4wd, there can be additional strain placed on the drivetrain if you are in perfect grip conditions with no slippage of the chain (either on the ground, or actual tire slippage within the chain, as the chain is supposed to slowly rotate around the tire with use).
I can't really think of an example of "perfect" grip, but perhaps would could come close to it, is extreme ice conditions where the grip is absolutely rigid with no slippage, and you could put additional strain on the fronts by them turning faster than the rears.
In theory this is certainly a concern. However, in practice, I believe that (properly installed and used) front chains are never going to have that 'perfect' traction scenario. On ice for instance, if the ice is "that" hard, then the studded chains will still slip and gauge the ice rather than prevent any slippage whatsoever.

Regarding installation, the chains should never be extremely tight on your tire, there should always be some 'give' and 'slackness' to the chains. For example, a good rule of thumb is if you can not put a fist between the sidewall of the tire and the chain going around it, then it's too tight. As a tire rotates the chain of course rotates with it, and as the chain grips, the tire slips slightly inside the chain, this goes for both front and rear. So, when the front chains grab, the tire still rotates slightly within the chain.

In addition to proper installation, I believe that the understanding of how the 4wd works, how the chains assist in traction, rotate around the tires, and have the ability to place additional strain on the drivechain, will help alleviate any dangers of going against manufacturers recommendations. The very fact that you understand how it happens, is what will help prevent the possibility of damage. When I am in excellent traction situations, I have my tractor in 2wd. In fact the majority of the time, my tractor is in 4wd unless I start losing traction, or can't maintain a straight line because the front of the tractor is sliding sideways (such as a heavy load on an angled blade applying sideways forces.)

I wouldn't decide against front chains based on a dealers recommendation, but if you truly think or worry about damage to the drivetrain then by all means don't fit the front chains.

 

[sailingsolo]

not yet. wondering what accessories i want but don't need. got to make sure i have one of everything. now i have to figure out what that everything is.

 

[sailingsolo]

the dealer basically said the same as you. if in 4wd and neither front or rear tire slipped then you might do damage to the drive train. i would believe that that happening would be about as good as winning the lottery, even if you do play it. as long as the tractor is under warranty best to play by the kubota rules and don't do it. dealer said if kubota knows you used front chains, tough. no warranty coverage.

 

[Oldoak]

To my thinking, if you feel you need chains on the front wheels too, your tractor is too small for the job you want it to do and should be using a bigger tractor. :confused3:

 

[LouNY]

To my thinking, if you feel you need chains on the front wheels too, your tractor is too small for the job you want it to do and should be using a bigger tractor. :confused3:

Light tractors with front blades at an angle will benefit form front chains even if only in 2wd or 2wd tractors it will keep the front end in place and require less steering brake.
In deep snow chains all the way around will allow a tractor to keep right on walking through when only on the rear they will at times get to crow hopping.

 

[PILOON]

My take looking at the size of the front drive components is that the term 'front assist' is just that. Assistance and not main power.

On my CUT it cost me a (costly) crown and pinion once.
Also trashed my front rims due to crabbing in push mode with an angled snow blade.

 

[FatTire]

Chains aren't optional here most winters. Use chains on your equipment or stay home. On the Kubota I use the net style on the front, Duo's on rear. No pavement.

 

[Phil48]

Since we are getting more and more strange winter : extreme cold then melting down! Our gravel/crush stone driveway is more like a toboggan extreme slide! Since the very beginning I have installed chains on front and rear tire.

For front tire (light chain with studs):
TRYGG FAST TRAC W/SQUARE STUDS
TRYGG Kjetting

For rear tire 3/8 Aquiline Talon
11.2-24 AquilineTalon Tractor – Tire Chains by TireChainsRequired.com

A blessing for today whether!

Phil

 

[Phil48]

in conjunction with tire chain, I had to buy another attachment for keeping up with our new crazy weather: crush stone gravel anti-slip device!

I now stock about 30 bags of crush anti-slip stone (40 lbs each). I have an average of 3 to 5 severe episode of icing of our driveway ¼ mile. So far a good solution!

 

[LouNY]

I get a tri-axle of winter sand salt mix every 2-3 years and then this;
View attachment IMG_20180205_115802129.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_115816914.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_120405626.jpg View attachment IMG_20180205_123232794.jpg View attachment IMG_20171226_130905131.jpg

pic #2 is the sand pile with plastic on it except where I'm headed to scoop up a bucket full
Pics #3 and 5 are loading the sander

I have to sand after most storms if I'm expecting anyone without 4wd and good tires.
And then the shady spots almost all the time.

 

[groundcover]

Broken Track - you sporting those new see through chaps in that pic ?

 

[PILOON]

What Phil48 shows will work great on his type tires.
On turfs (if you have that style) the studded every 3rd link in traditional cross fashion will be better (studded or V ice or even plain) but every 3rd link.
NB, I have had all combinations and converted my (like Phil) to every 3rd for my turfs. Every 3rd make a nice ride and never skips but always grabs even on blue sheer ice like after a freezing rain event and that on fairly steep climbs.

 

[LouNY]

What Phil48 shows will work great on his type tires.
On turfs (if you have that style) the studded every 3rd link in traditional cross fashion will be better (studded or V ice or even plain) but every 3rd link.
NB, I have had all combinations and converted my (like Phil) to every 3rd for my turfs. Every 3rd make a nice ride and never skips but always grabs even on blue sheer ice like after a freezing rain event and that on fairly steep climbs.

I'll have to disagree the euro or net studded chain will give the absolute best traction and ride with no exception regardless the type of tire there is no way conventional cross link chains will even come close I don't care if the are 2 link or 3 link or 4 link spaced..

 

[PILOON]

I'll have to disagree the euro or net studded chain will give the absolute best traction and ride with no exception regardless the type of tire there is no way conventional cross link chains will even come close I don't care if the are 2 link or 3 link or 4 link spaced..

Yes the traction and ride was good so I agree there.

I had the euro on my CUT and they pulled apart just to often at the joints that were attached with S hooks.
From pure frustration I took them apart and converted them to ladder style.

I determined that all the energy was actually depending on the strength of any one S hook and it would open or snap and then I ended up with a tire chain all crooked and even wrapped around the axle as it slid sideways off of the tire.
Oh yes they gripped well but they usually dug down and snapped the S.
I used the chain stock and cut to cross length originally spacing every 6 link but found the ride rough so having the extra material I went to every 3 link.
At this point I ran out of chain stock and purchased more to finish up.

The result is over the last 10 years I have never had a chain failure while B4 I had 5-6 in one winter, all due to the S hooks.

 

[LouNY]

Yes the traction and ride was good so I agree there.

I had the euro on my CUT and they pulled apart just to often at the joints that were attached with S hooks.
From pure frustration I took them apart and converted them to ladder style.

I determined that all the energy was actually depending on the strength of any one S hook and it would open or snap and then I ended up with a tire chain all crooked and even wrapped around the axle as it slid sideways off of the tire.
Oh yes they gripped well but they usually dug down and snapped the S.
I used the chain stock and cut to cross length originally spacing every 6 link but found the ride rough so having the extra material I went to every 3 link.
At this point I ran out of chain stock and purchased more to finish up.

The result is over the last 10 years I have never had a chain failure while B4 I had 5-6 in one winter, all due to the S hooks.

I don't know what brand you had that had S hooks none of ours have them, all mine connect with angled links or clevis's or center locking links I have had clevis's come loose when the screw pins came out.
We put up to 135 hp to the ground with ours, the oldest set is about 8 years old and I have been waiting for them to start giving problems from being wore. So far so good