chainsaw sharpening question

[Egon]

<font class="small">Code:</font><hr /><pre>seems that heat changes the temper of the metal - but you can make it usable. </pre><hr />

Very true. If the chain is overheated as will happen when it is used dull the temper is removed and the chain will never cut as well or long as when new.

I used to take my chains to a shop till I noticed the fellow was sharpening them with a file freehand. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Decided that perhaps I could manage to do it that way too. I have some of the proper guides but find they are slow to use and after practice not really required. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Egon

 

[1bush2hog]

Not sure what kind of chain you have, but the speed chain is the way to go.

Stihl and probably others have round files that insert into a Stihl handle. This nifty handle has an angle on two sides of it, that when sharpening, you keep it parallel to the bar as you push the file. You will learn with practice the other angle. It is easy to freehand using this handle as your eyes automatically keep the angle on the handle parallel with the bar as you complete your stroke.

It saves time over a guide, and extends life of chain also. I used to take mine to have sharpened, but some lost their temper with this grinding process, and it was never convenient to take the chains in. The plastic orange handle is also inexpensive and has a spark plug wrench on the very end.

I sharpen my chain a couple of strokes(same amount unless cutting at angle) on each tooth with every fill up of gas. No need to be a gorilla when sharpening - just let the file do it's work using a smooth push stroke. It is easier to keep a chain sharp if you don't let it get real dull.

If you are cutting at an angle, sharper 1 or two more strokes on that side, check, and hit 1 or two more times on that side if necessary. Practice on your safety chain that came with the saw and then put the speed chain on.

With a little practice you will become proficient and save yourself a heck of alot of time if you have to cut much wood.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> I do the same thing but was too ashamed to admit it till you did! $2.50 a chain here. </font>

Pete
I did the same thing. Except about 20 years ago I happened to stop by a chain saw shop that was going out of business. Bought their Oregon sharpener $100.
Since its easy to sharpen my chains. When they start showing signs of not cutting properly. I change to one of the 3 chains that I have. Still have the original chain that came with my Sthil 031 over 25 years ago.

 

[BigEddy]

I use the Husqvarna Roller file guide for my saw. Been using it for 15 years - best file guide I've ever used. Keeps both angles correct. Just make sure you are using the right file and guide for your chain. Using the wrong file size will result in a lousy cut and quickly wear out your chain. Oregon has a good troubleshooting guide that will help you understand what to correct if you are having problems with your chain, plus giving you some guidelines for care and maintenance.

http://www.oregonchain.ca/tech/manual_maint.shtm

My issue with grinding is that it tends to overheat the chain damaging the temper, and it sure is a fast way to grind away a chain quickly.

I check and touch up each time I run out of fuel - figure I should wait the 5 minutes to let the muffler cool off before I spill fuel on it anyway. I usually use 5 strokes per tooth for a touch up, and 10 for a real sharpening and my last 2 chains lasted 15 years heating solely with wood.

 

[ronjhall]

<font color="blue"> My issue with grinding is that it tends to overheat the chain damaging the temper </font>
Using a grinder can overheat and grind away a chain quickly. There was another thread on TBN about all the problems with taking a chain to a shop that pays minimum wage and does not properly train a person to do the job correctly. When this happens, an expensive chain can be ruined. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[PineRidge]

I would hazard to guess that with the micrometer adjustment on the Oregon that you can take as little material as you would ever need. Plus once it is set every tooth will be sharpened the same length and angle, that's consistency.

That's something that you would be unlikely to duplicate on every tooth by counting the number of strokes with a file, even using a guide for your angle.