Cinder Block Calculator

[KubotaSteve]

I am in the beginning stages of planning to add a mudroom and garage onto my house. I cannot seem to find a cinder block calculator as to how many block I am going to need. Anyone have any ideas where I can get one?
And the 2nd question is concerning the garage door. I am debating over going with two doors in the front versus 1 big door. Regardless of which one I go with, I am getting 9 foot tall doors to eliminate the hassle of folding the ROPS.

 

[beenthere]

I think concrete block (same as cinder block?) figures 8" rise and 16" run. These measurements include the ½" joint mortar. But that is from memory and its been awhile. Also, depends on the size of block you are going to use, as there are other choices.
Here is some more info.
block size history

 

[ikline]

Here you go

Block calculator

 

[Gatorboy]

<font color="blue"> Here you go </font>

I don't think that is what he is looking for. He wants something to calculate the number of blocks.

Calculating the number shouldn't be that difficult. Just add up how much linear feet you need, multiply by 12 (inches) and then divide by 16.5 (16" block with 1/2" joint). That's how many blocks you will need for one coarse. Then do the same calculation for the number of coarses by multiplying the height in feet by 12 and then dividing by 8.5 (8" block with 1/2" joint). Finally multiply the two calcuated values. Blocks per coarse * No. of Coarses high.

That should give you a rough estimate for solid walls -- you will have to subract out window openings etc.

 

[ikline]

Yeh I just realized that. I am looking for the other site now. Sorry about that

 

[Nat]

Length of wall X 12" divided X 16" Each course is 8" . Around here, central NC we go 13 courses, which is 8'6".
The mortar joint is included in the hieght, and length, but not in the width. ie an 8 " block is 7 5/8 X15 5/8 X8
a 12 in block is 7 5/8 XC 15 5/8 X 12

 

[BarrNoneConstr]

What is the formula for mixing cement, sand and water for laying block for walls?

 

[BobInMN]

Here is how I do it. Take your total length of wall times the height. I usally convert everything to inches, it just makes it easier for me. Here is an example of a project I'm working on. I want a building that is 12' long, 8' wide and 88" tall (which is 11 courses). Take 144" X 88" X 2 (walls) + 96" X 88" X 2 (walls). This equals 42240 Square Inches. The surface area of a 8" X 16" block is 128 square inches. Divide 42240 by 128, this equals 330 blocks. Now, because my wall is 11 courses high and I have 4 corners I know I need 44 corner block. This is where it gets a little confusing. Because these corner block will have 128 square inches exposed on one wall and another 64 square inches exposed on the wall around the corner I have to account for that. I multiply 44 X 64, which equals 2816 square inches. Divide 2816 by 128 which equals 22. So, orginally I needed a total of 330 block. Subtract 22 for a total of 308 block. 44 must be corner block which means 264 must be stretcher block. I hope this makes sense to you. Also, when you do your calculations the joint is accounted for, 8" X 16" block are nominal size. Someone wanted to know about mixing mortar. That depends on what you want to use it for. Is it going to be in contact with the ground? Will it be exposed to freezing weather?

 

[Henro]

Just to add a thought that probably does not mean too much...

Sometimes a block breaks when you cut it, and you end up not using it all...so you need a few more than you first thought.

And having a few left over is not too bad either...for me they work good as extra weight on my box blade.

So no matter how good you calculate the number, you probably want to get a few extra anyway...

Wonder what they cost these days? My extras are almost 25 years old now and still going strong... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Don't think they cost more than about a buck each for 12" block back then, maybe even less... /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[RobS]

<font color="blue">Sometimes a block breaks when you cut it, and you end up not using it all...so you need a few more than you first thought.
</font>

I bought in whole skids from Menards this past summer. They happily took back my leftovers at the end of the project.

<font color="blue">Wonder what they cost these days? </font>

Seems they were less than a buck a piece. I priced our local masonry supply house and even they couldn't touch Menards pricing. I don't like the service or layout of Menards but it's hard to beat the prices /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[Fungus]

There are several types of mortar used for laying block. I typically use type S and the standardized formula (by volume) is:

1 Part Hydrated Lime
2 Part Portland Cement
9 Part Sand

You can buy premixed mortar (Hydrated Lime & Portland Cement) in a bag. Then you just add 1 part premix to 3 part sand.

Water is rarely specified in mortar mix because of the variables. You add water until the right consistency is reached.

 

[Nat]

Here in central NC we buy Brixment brand mortar mix in 74 pound bags and mix in 16 shovels of sand for brick/block construction.

 

[stivemorgan]

How i can use this calculator

 

[electrycmonk]

How i can use this calculator

Well, when I clicked on the link it gave the dreaded 404 error page. So I just used backspace to remove to the last "/" & that still gave a 404, then I backspaced to the main website. That worked. Then clicked on the education link at bottom.
Then I saw the correct link for the calculation: Calculators | Quality Construction Materials | Pennsy Supply

It seems their website has gotten an update or two along the way eh?

 

[dougtrr2]

Cinder block issue aside, I would go with two doors instead of one. I had a house with one wide door and the cars seemed to edge to the center making it easy to get out of one and difficult to get out of the other. Two doors keep the cars in their right places. You might just consider having one of the doors taller and wider depending on your particular set up. If possible I would also recommend a "daylight" drain centered under each parking space. Nice way to get the snow melt out of the garage.

Doug in SW IA