Clear-Span or Box Beam Barn

[olds67]

Anyone have a clear-span barn that can let me know what they think about it compared to a traditional pole barn? I am looking at building a 30x40x12 and I really like the open design of this barn.

The following website is the type of barn I am looking at.

boxbeam

 

[crazyal]

I built, I say built but I haven't put the windows in or siding on it yet, a 28x32 garage. I ended up going with trusses. It's a two level garage with an I-beam down the middle only supported on each end (so the main floor is wide open) and the trusses span the 28 foot distance. It's a gambrel design so even though the walls are only about 2 feet high on the second floor it still has lots of room. I don't think I would build a garage, barn or shop with poles in the middle.

 

[olds67]

Crazyal, I really like the grambrel barns and a second floor is something I would like to have. Unfortunately its not with in my budget. The clear span design is completely open with cathedral type ceilings. That way with a high enough pitch a loft can be built later. I like this design a lot but I wanted to see of anyone this forum has built one or has knowledge about how structurally sound they are.

By the way, nice barn!

 

[Rustyiron]

I think that you might be a little confused with your terminoligy (unless there's a local term. diff) but all of the "pole" bldgs that I have delt with are clear span (no load bearing posts in the middle) A typical pole bldg uses a pole every 8' or so as the "foundation" as well as the bearing point for the roof system. The link that you shown looks nice but you may be able to build cheaper with locally sourced materials. A common 30' truss should be 75-100 bucks each X 21 for a 40' bldg. Keep in mind that you won't be able to get your attic unless you specify attic trusses and that adds $$ as well as more roofing mat.

 

[milkman636]

I used 30' 2x6 trusses spaced every 4' for my 30x40x10 pole barn. They have a higher vertical load bearing than the common 2x4 trusses, and the 4' spacing made them easier to use for overhead storage. Alot of stuff will fit up between the trusses that wouldn't with 2' spacing. With 2x4 purlins and 1/2" plwood on top it feels real solid when you are up on top too.

That cathedral ceiling is nice if you need alot of clearance in the center for something tall. 12' under the trusses will fit almost anything that most people have. Either way you'll love your new barn. Some prices will probably help you decide which way to go.

 

[olds67]

Thank you for all the replies so far. Rustyiron, I think you are right about the terminology, I can't find any info on this type of barn beyond branstock's website. I am just using his terminology. I was quoted around $9,600 for a 30x40x12 with 7/12 pitch, shingled roof, 12" overhang all the way around, and a 12x12 slider and entry door. This includes being built on my site. I can't even match materials for all that with a standard pole barn. The differences I have found out so far is it is all engineered wood beams mounted to a concrete footing. Similar to a steel building. There are no poles in the ground. I think this design is so new there are not many folks that have them. I am going to look at a barn he built tomorrow morning so I will have a better understanding on how it is built. I will post what I find out.

 

[milkman636]

The red barn in the middle of the page you linked to has posts going into the ground???

They look like nice structures. Was foundation cost and flatwork an addition to the price he gave you?

 

[olds67]

Milkman, you may be right about the end post being in the ground. I will get that all figured out tomorrow. It is an additional $2800 for the flatwork.

 

[olds67]

I have a better idea about the barn now, attached is the photos from the barn I looked at today. The posts are buried just like a normal post frame only they are made out of multiple 2x treated boards. The trusses (I think that may be what they are called or rafters?) Are made out of bolted together 2x as well.

 

[milkman636]

That price sounds in line with some typical pole barns that I have seen advertised. There is a 30x40x10 advertised for 8995 installed in todays paper.

What is the advantage that they are promoting over typical post construction? Is it strictly not having the bottom truss chords?

 

[olds67]

Besides not having a lower truss cord the price is the advantage. I want options such as ability to have or add a second floor for storage, which I can do with the 7/12 pitch and a loft. Also I want 12" eaves all the way around and a shingle roof. I've called on the news paper adds locally priced like that and after all the options I'm close to 12 grand without the flatwork. This type barn fits my budget with all the options I want. I was concerned about how sturdy the barn is, but after talking with the gentleman today who has one built, I am sold. I will post my progress so anyone interested can check out this type of barn.

 

[crazyal]

Is this something you need to have someone else build for you? I probably have about $8k into mine if you subtract the cement and the i-beam and second floor decking. The two garage doors were about $2k so the basic shell dried in costs about $6k. The trusses were a little pricey, a little over $2200 but up here I had to go with 80lb snow load. It's amazing how quickly the extras bump up the price.

 

[milkman636]

The inside of you new barn will look huge. You'll end up with about 20' of headroom at the ridge. I agree that they look cool on the inside.

When talking sturdiness, if everything is "engineered" they should be able to produce all the snow and wind load criteria that they are designed to.

Have you considered 2' overhangs on the eaves? I find the extra foot worth the cost.

Do they offer any type of guarantees on their fabricated structural members?

 

[BeezFun]

Besides not having a lower truss cord the price is the advantage. I want options such as ability to have or add a second floor for storage, which I can do with the 7/12 pitch and a loft.

If you think you want to add a loft, you're going to have to add posts in the middle of the structure to hold it up. If that's true, you might think of a traditional pole building with rafters instead of trusses. That keeps the upper area clear for later loft, and also has all the structural elements in place to support the floor of the loft. I think you'll end up paying more to add the loft to the design you're looking at than you would to a pole building with a steeper pitch.

 

[olds67]

The barn design is patented by Branstock. I talked talked with another guy who works with the owner and he was telling me how they are a small company but supply and build steel buildings and these "clearspan" buildings all over the US.

I am planning on doing the barn in stages, the first stage is the barn, then concrete, then loft which I plan on using a floor truss or steel I beam so I wouldn't have posts in the middle. The reason for the stages is money, I am trying not to finance and just pay cash. I sold my 67 cutlass to get the first stage done. I can't do much of the work because I have a demanding job and not too many weekends I want to give up with the wife and kids.

 

[olds67]

Have you considered 2' overhangs on the eaves? I find the extra foot worth the cost.

Do they offer any type of guarantees on their fabricated structural members?

I have thought about the 2' overhang and I am asking for how much additional the extra foot would be. Other then shedding rain water further away from the foundation, what are the other benefits?

I haven't asked about the garentee but I will. Thanks!

 

[milkman636]

With the 7/12 pitch there will be alot of roof draining off only one foot from the bottom of your doors, walls, and your windows. Two feet starts the water draining farther away and also gives twice the shade, soffit vent area, and shelter from the elements than one foot will. After opting for 2' once I wouldn't go back. Having my entry door and a 9x8 side door under my eaves, the extra foot is a noticable improvement on my newer barn over my old one.

 

[fowllife]

The box beam looks like a interesting design. It's essentially a wooden ridged frame build, similair to a metal building but just smaller frames. The strength comes from the gusset plates at the post/beam connections. I may have to look into them a little more before I put up my next building.

If your worried about water coming into your building through the doors, a gutter and downspouts will help you more. The larger the overhang to more rain/sun will stay off your building.

 

[SandburRanch]

Back in the day a clear span structure may have been called timber framing.

 

[gwjd]

if you dont want gutters but want a dry area over the door they make diverter strips you place on the roof that shead water to each side