Converting Top Link To Hydraulic

[Bird]

Bob, either cylinder will work well Personally, I used the plain cylinders with no check valve and was happy with them. But if one type has an advantage over the other, I think I'd have to give the advantage to a cylinder with a check valve; just a little less likely to bleed down and change your adjustment on its own.

 

[kennyd]

Hi guys, I am considering installing a hydraulic top link on my new JD 2320, and have followed this thread with great interest. I am puzzled ,however, by the fact that two distinct styles of cylinder seem to be used. The cylinders pictured in post #35 by 8404 and post #29 by kozak show the hydraulic lines going directly into the cylinders. On the other hand the cylinder used by jinman in post#12 and the cylinders referred to in post #22 by kennyd show cylinders with DPOCV's.
Are there adfvantages to one or the other system?

Cheers Bob

PS first post....but this is an amazing forum....lots of great advice and helpful suggestions.

Welcome to TBN

Cylinder's with the DPOCV's will NOT drift at all whereas the ones without can and due. That is the real difference. A search of the term "dpocv" should turn up more reading...

 

[jinman]

Bob, as Vic (Kozak) found out, CCM will not ship to Canada. To get a HTL with the DPOCVs, you need to order from Surplus Center. They won't be as helpful as CCM is with getting all your fittings and hoses, but I have been completely satisfied with all my purchases from them and they show international shipping as one of the things they do on their website.

I have had both HTLs without the DPOCV and with it. I will not go back to the one without. To me, it makes that much difference. I don't think it's as critical on the tilt cylinder because the 3PH arms float up and down anyhow and a correctional adjustment once per hour is not much. However, having the HTL stay exactly where you put it just like it was a screw adjustment is a big advantage with grading, plowing, or tilling.

I'm baffled by folks who balk at the added price of the HTL with DPOCVs. They pay $500 to $1200 for hydraulic remotes and thousands of dollars for quality implements (cutters, blades, tillers) and then have a problem paying $75 more for the cylinder with an DPOCV. To me, it's worth every penny of the extra expense. So are good hoses and quality fittings. I don't think you would ever regret it.

 

[8404]

I only use my tractor for bush hogging and my top link stays in the full out position with no weight on it wile im mowing, the only time i lift the weight of the hog is for exscapeing from mud holes and loading on the trailor or driving down the road. so for me i just didnt bother with the extra check valve but i did use my box blade the other day for a few hours and still didnt notice any change in the angle of the box after hours of use.
If i was road grading with a two way hydraulic blade then i can see woring with having all the check valve for shure.

 

[cannyscot]

Many thanks for the explanations. I think from the advice given here that I will go the check valve route. This is a marvellous forum....great knowledge base and helpful people.

 

[beenthere]

I have the check valve, so know nothing about what it would be without.
I use the HTL often, but rely on it a lot with the forks on the 3ph and a pallet load of firewood.
That HTL is one of the handiest additions to the tractor. Couldn't get along without it. Now with a 3ph rototiller, it adds another dimension to "not being without".

Getting so I so seldom have to get off the tractor, that I'm thinking I need to set up a bar and lunch counter within easy reach.

 

[gerthal]

Hi,
I am new to this forum. I have a gas Deere 1010 and want to add an HTL. What size cylinder do I need? I plan to use it with a six foot Deere box scraper. I know my tractor uses Cat 1 stuff but what diameter HTL should I get? Also, a local Deere dealer told me that with the remote hydraulics on my tractor I do not need check valves. Any thoughts?
Please excuse me if I'm asking ignorant questions.
Thanks.
Al

 

[kennyd]

Hi,
I am new to this forum. I have a gas Deere 1010 and want to add an HTL. What size cylinder do I need? I plan to use it with a six foot Deere box scraper. I know my tractor uses Cat 1 stuff but what diameter HTL should I get? Also, a local Deere dealer told me that with the remote hydraulics on my tractor I do not need check valves. Any thoughts?
Please excuse me if I'm asking ignorant questions.
Thanks.
Al

Welcome to TBN Al

You will have to measure your existing TL both retracted and extended to find the proper length range you need. Most CAT1 HTL's are 2" bore with a 1 1/4"ish rod.
Check valves will ensure the HTL does not drift not matter what kind of remotes you have-and really do not cost that much more.

Surplus Center has these two to choose from, and a search of the term "ccm" will turn up hundreds of other posts about HTL's and the check valves.

 

[mcd176]

I agree with the others that my hydraulic link is one of the most useful additions to my machine, I added mine a few years back for my box scraper but have found that it is useful on my other implements as well.

 

[saskman49]

Welcome to TBN

Cylinder's with the DPOCV's will NOT drift at all whereas the ones without can and due. That is the real difference. A search of the term "dpocv" should turn up more reading...

Am I wrong in thinking this is not an issue if you are using an electric diverter like I have to control the top link as both ports are blocked in the diverter unless you press the button to move the cylinder. The default is loader operation.