OP
Creating a Workshop & Home
- Thread starter EddieWalker
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Nice work!
Side note on the saw, sounds like you should try a new repair shop... if it is a pro level Husqvarna it can be repaired (some of the cheaper saws are really Poulans and..).
beyond that running 2 year old fuel mix will kill any two stroke much less 4 year old...
Side note on the saw, sounds like you should try a new repair shop... if it is a pro level Husqvarna it can be repaired (some of the cheaper saws are really Poulans and..).
beyond that running 2 year old fuel mix will kill any two stroke much less 4 year old...
Eddie,
You have the world by the tail, and you pulled the teeth so it can not bite you back. Your work is fantastic. Getting done what you have is not easy, but I can tell you love doing it. Great work. As for the girlfriend, you best hold on to her real tight, she is a keeper.
You have the world by the tail, and you pulled the teeth so it can not bite you back. Your work is fantastic. Getting done what you have is not easy, but I can tell you love doing it. Great work. As for the girlfriend, you best hold on to her real tight, she is a keeper.
Kyle_in_Tex
Super Star Member
That's a neat low cost way to make a beam. I just want to know one thing. Where in the world can you get a straight board anymore like your 2 x 6? If I ever see an old house getting tore down, I'm going to beg for some "real" dimensional lumber pieces for some straight edges.
2 x 4's used to really be 2 x 4's....Kyle
2 x 4's used to really be 2 x 4's....Kyle
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks guys for the nice words.
Finding a straight board is allot easier then finding a "flat" one. The twisting and warping is really bad, even on grad 2 boards. Oh well, that's what my pipe wrench is for. LOL
This pic shows a 3 inch by 3 inch piece of oak 16 feet long. Even with the straight edge and guide, it's very hard to keep the cut straight for very long.
Fortunately I'm cutting smaller pieces from it to create the rest of the truss.
Here's one for the math experts. My roof pitch is 4 in 12, so I looked real close and set my chop saw for 19 degrees. It seem to work, but who knows what the exact measurement in degrees is for that pitch?
Finding a straight board is allot easier then finding a "flat" one. The twisting and warping is really bad, even on grad 2 boards. Oh well, that's what my pipe wrench is for. LOL
This pic shows a 3 inch by 3 inch piece of oak 16 feet long. Even with the straight edge and guide, it's very hard to keep the cut straight for very long.
Fortunately I'm cutting smaller pieces from it to create the rest of the truss.
Here's one for the math experts. My roof pitch is 4 in 12, so I looked real close and set my chop saw for 19 degrees. It seem to work, but who knows what the exact measurement in degrees is for that pitch?
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
johnday
Veteran Member
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Eddie; It's 18 1/2 degrees, I think your close enough. Very interesting what your doing, and looks like great work! Keep the updates coming. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Nat
Platinum Member
Eddie, how long does a chain last before it needs sharpening? I have some eastern red cedar that I'm going to cut like that for the front steps of the house I'm building. I don't have a guide, but think I can keep it straight enough for 4 feet. I want to make some 4 x 10" strp treads, and the stringers will be less than 4"
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EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
Thanks John. Now that I know I'm a little over, I can fudge it down a bit.
Nat,
It took two chains to do those posts. The real killer is the long, deep cut you need in order to get to a flat surface.
The first blade had been on the saw a bit already, so it wan't sharp to begin with. The second blade was brand new and it lasted through everything else I did.
As for cutting without the guide, good luck. Non of my cuts are straight. Some are better then others, but that's the best I can say for my skills.
Short pieces might be easier, but keeping the blade horizontal will be as tough a job as cutting in a straight line.
I'd advise cutting it extra big so you can plane down the gouges.
I wanted gouges in my beams and was worried it would be too smooth. I was even working out ways to distress it when I finished cutting it because I expected it to be smooter. Fortunately it all worked out just like I wanted it.
Nat,
It took two chains to do those posts. The real killer is the long, deep cut you need in order to get to a flat surface.
The first blade had been on the saw a bit already, so it wan't sharp to begin with. The second blade was brand new and it lasted through everything else I did.
As for cutting without the guide, good luck. Non of my cuts are straight. Some are better then others, but that's the best I can say for my skills.
Short pieces might be easier, but keeping the blade horizontal will be as tough a job as cutting in a straight line.
I'd advise cutting it extra big so you can plane down the gouges.
I wanted gouges in my beams and was worried it would be too smooth. I was even working out ways to distress it when I finished cutting it because I expected it to be smooter. Fortunately it all worked out just like I wanted it.
ScottAR
Veteran Member
Nice work!!
You guys should go over to the Forestry Forum and have a look around. There are some fellas doing chainsaw milling. Everything from freehand slab cutting to specialized frames/jigs. HTH...
You guys should go over to the Forestry Forum and have a look around. There are some fellas doing chainsaw milling. Everything from freehand slab cutting to specialized frames/jigs. HTH...
