CUT vs PT

Trojan6 · Apr 27, 2004

IrTxRx,

You've got to get out here and see the little 180. I've been getting home around 1700 lately, and with the light and nice weather there's plenty of time to give you a demo. I think that seeing mine (and all the various attachments) work on terrain that is probably very similar to yours will answer most of your questions. I know you said you couldn't come on another weekend, so PM if you'd like to try it out during the week. Dust is present, but not bad. Also, I haven't had to lift up the bush hog yet to mow saplings/tall grass, so projectiles haven't been a problem. Let me know if you can get off early one day, and I'll try to do the same.
/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Stefan

PTRich · Apr 27, 2004

I have an explanation. It may not be true but it seems right to me. The distance between the back of the mower and the tractor (wich is square in front and wider than you) would be measured in inches, and not many. I often call my rotary cutter a "Rock Hog" because I hit and split so many rocks. I also have used it as a farmers wood chipper, pile the brush up and lower the cutter onto the pile. I have not been hit by anything yet but dust is sometimes a pile. Because of your sitting position I do not think you can be hit by anything but remember, you can easily throw things 40 feet or more so no spectators are ever allowed at our house.

Charlie_Iliff · Apr 27, 2004

Charlie, I guess one question I have is regarding the rear discharge mower. How can a rear discharge rough cut mower not be more dangerous if you are behind it (compared to a CUT 3 point shredder that you are in front of and above of) ??? 
The discharge is through a fairly heavy skirt which keeps stuff down, and the front of the PT blocks the line from the center of the deck to the operator. The risk from a rear mower is primarily something thrown and bounced back at the operator. As I've noted above, I've not seen things thrown by the PT mower, but I suppose there's some similar risk with a front mower.

 - I wouldn't describe the portion of my property going down to the creek as "steep." I would call it sloping with lots of terrestial irregularities 
I have a fair amount of steep work and some irregular and rough. The PT is a better mower for every type of condition than the 3-point 6 foot bush hog on the JD 950 or the belly decks on the 755 JD and the recently sold Kubota 7100. You can see what you're doing better and work tighter areas. There are some places where 72" is a bit too wide and scalps a little in rough areas of lawn, so my Exmark 48" walk behind is better. The PT is a big rough cut, not a lawnmower. Mostly, I want wide pasture cuts for regular maintenance of about 15 acres of pasture and occasional of another 30 or 40 if we can't get anyone to do them with the other tractors. (The PT 1845 is mine. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)
The point about the cost is valid. My 72" rough cut was $2900. Last year I bought a 48" rear mount brush hog for the 755 JD for about $500. The PT will cut heavier stuff, and I think will last longer, but it isn't cheap. (Neither was the Exmark, but this isn't a walk-behind lawnmower forum. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif)

MossRoad · Apr 28, 2004

The PT425 brush hog and finish mower that I have use the same castering wheels up front, but the rear wheels on the brush hog are heavier and use thicker axle bolts.

SnowRidge · Apr 28, 2004

( ... the rear wheels on the brush hog are heavier and use thicker axle bolts. )

Out of curiosity, how does their diameter compare with the finish mower's rears?

SnowRidge

IrTxRx · Apr 28, 2004

Looks like this thread is winding down,
Just wanted to say 'Thanks again.' /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

MossRoad · Apr 28, 2004

Just for clarification, the 48" brush hog on our PT425 is FRONT discharge.

With that said, I have been tempted to raise it and plow into things, but that seems like a death wish. The most I ever raised it is a few inches at most. If something is too big to get pushed over while the mower is at normal cutting height, I'll stop the mower, wait for the blades to stop, then lift the hog and push the stuff down with the power down of the lift arms. Once it is leaning away from me, I'll back up, lower the hog, start it up and attempt to run it over again. If it won't go under the deck that way, I just skip it and move on. No point in injuring myself. I can hit it with the chain saw a lot easier and safer.

I've had great success with stuff up to an inch and a half just bending down and sliding under the brush hog. You have to be careful that the hog doesn't ride up a tree if it is in float. Just go slow and take it easy. It will do lots of work in short time.

RegL · Apr 30, 2004

mr, when clearing very thick brush I have, without osha approval, lifted the brush hog quite high, eased in and gently lowered it. I'm not talking about material that to big to push over, but brush and vines so thick they just hang there and won't go under the deck even after being cut. The draft control makes it a lot easier because you can lift the deck by pulling back on the stick and when you release it the deck floats down very slowly. The thing I don't like about the pt deck is that it's heaver in front so when you lift it the back pivots up and stuff is more likely to be thrown back toward the operator. I'm trying to figure a way to add weight to the rear of the deck so when you raise it, the back will pivot down and shield stuff away from the operator, me.

I'm also still thinking about that expanded metal windshield we talked about some time ago.

PTRich · Apr 30, 2004

I just curl the "bucket" up with the joy stick when I lower it onto a pile. This keeps the deck facing away.

MossRoad · May 1, 2004

Too scary for me! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

I hit an old metal ratcheting tie down strap contraption in the tall grass by the highway two years ago with the brush hog. It blew the left rear wheel OFF the brush hog and threw the metal ratchet across the highway! Had any car been there, someone could have been injured and I could have been in deep legal doo doo.

Many times with the brush hog flat on the ground large pieces of wood have flown out about 30-50 feet, turned around boomerang style and come right back at me. I've also seen pieces bounce off other trees and shoot around.

The worst thing that happened was I hit a large hidden rock and sheared the bolt off that holds one of the swinging blades to the center spindle. The blade took off and burried itself in the sand knife like and the whole mower started shaking violently.

Anyway, any time that mower is up off the ground, we take the chance of something flying out. The higher we lift it, the more room for escape the debris has. The more room for escape, the better chance that it will destroy property, or worse, life. Yes, I've done it. But no, I will not do it again. It is your choice. Please be careful. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Have you all seen the brush hog videos at my web site? They really show the great capabilities this thing has in deep weeds and brush. And the multiflora rose didn't stand a chance! The out front design is superior, in my opinion, of course. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Charlie_Iliff · May 3, 2004

A typical Spring weekend afternoon with the Power Trac:
Started about 1:00 PM, Sunday. Trammed a mile each way to till a garden patch for my brother because our antique JD tiller had finally lunched its gearbox. Switched to Lackender hoe and dug up a bunch of stubborn decorative bush roots to make way for the newer, better decorative bushes. (This was in a tight area with a 6' section of fence removed - requiring a 90 degree turn within 7' after the fence - and other decorative bushes to avoid) Switched back to tiller and tilled the bush area, switched to large bucket and carried a bunch of new potted bushes to the staging area for planting, switched to the 4 n 1 to remove the heavy root balls of the old bushes to a dump area. Mowed lawn with Exmark walkbehind.
I suspect that if I had CUT rather than the PT, I'd have gotten the first bit of tilling done, and then postponed the rest until the weather or something was better. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

(Can't let this thread die, can we?)

smartguyz · May 3, 2004

OK, now that Charlie has started us off again, here's a typical day for my property:

Did some hand weeding - using the large bucket on the PT425 as a big yard cart - carted off the remains to the compost pile. Switched to the 'ultimate sprayer', filled up with herbicide, and then went '4-wheeling' up to spray some errant weed piles that are unreachable by any other method (on top of some terraced slopes). Switched to the 48" finish mower, did the grassy areas. Switched to the brush hog and cleared a number of weedy patches, and then went to the forest and cleared out a walking path and a picnic and play area - took down blackberry brambles that were, in some cases, 6-7 feet high. Pulled out the pressure washer and leaf blower and cleaned up the PT. Done for the day.

I suspect that I would have mowed the lawn and perhaps done a bit of spraying with a CUT and be done for the day. One reason is that with Spring here, the grass is so wet that it clumps up on the deck - with the PT, just lift the deck (brace with a 4x4 timber) and then pressure wash the bottom. Done. With the CUT, woe be it to those who need to clean the deck undersides. Usually, I needed to either put the tractor up on ramps, or drag the deck out (GRUNT) and then prop it up and scrape and hose it down. (GRUNT) Plus, there is NO way to get the sprayer to certain areas of the property if you are towing it. Even an ATV model would be hard pressed.

I agree, the PT is MUCH more industrious where you need to do multiple things in the day. I shudder when I consider what I needed to do on even the honorable JD318 to swap out the deck, the sprayer, and the FEL. No wonder it sits waiting for me to sell it.

Sincerely,

Rob /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

pajoube · May 3, 2004

I ended up renting an asphault cutter and cutting a three foot strip out from the front of the garages (42 ft). This had a sink hole under neath that needed to be corrected. I used the forks on the 425 to lift the 4 to 5 inch thick slabs out. 425 handled without any problem.
PJ

IrTxRx · May 3, 2004

Charlie,

Am i correct in understanding that with your 1845 you turned around / manuevered in a less than 10' X 10' area. I am having troulbe picturing your saturday worksite. Oh BTW my non-PT weekend was a lot sweatier, I am absolutely exhausted today and I didn't get anywhere near as much done. But it was still a great weekend and good kind of tired /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif.

It's OK with me if the thread doesn't die /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif. i'll take all the info I can get.

I sent a PM to some PTers so I guess i'll post the question on the board.

Is the $2000-$2500 for me am my mechanic to attend the training in tazewell worth the extra cost (approx +/- 10% above base price of PT 1445 with mower and bucket)???

Thanks

Bob999 · May 3, 2004

Is the $2000-$2500 for me am my mechanic to attend the training in tazewell worth the extra cost (approx +/- 10% above base price of PT 1445 with mower and bucket)??? 

No-- in my opinion. The training is a combination of an explanation of "how it works" combined with information on required maintenance and adjustments. While many of us have noted the "Manual" is very brief most of the info in the training is in the manual if you read/study it closely. The remainder can be gleaned from postings in this forum.

Charlie_Iliff · May 3, 2004

Am i correct in understanding that with your 1845 you turned around / manuevered in a less than 10' X 10' area. 
Nope. I had a narrow opening in the fence alongside a 7' x 25' bed, so I had to go through and turn immediately. Once in, I could go forward and back a bit, then back out and reenter turning the other way. Although I could till the whole bed, I did have to leave some tire tracks to be raked out, since I couldn't back beyond the ends.

KevinFleming · May 3, 2004

I have a PT-1430 with a 72" finish mower and a 60" rough cut mower. They both cut beautifully, are very maneuverable, and are easy to clean. Good luck.

davesisk · May 3, 2004

I helped a neighbor cut down a tree. Used the PT with the front-hoe and thumb to pick up the tree so we could cut it up easily, then switched to the stump grinder and removed 5 small stumps for him. He climbed one of my trees with a ladder to cut out a broken top...I'm more than happy to trade that kind of work! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

pajoube · May 4, 2004

I would not attend the maintenance training unless I was going to Tazewell anyway. As far as taking a mechanic that is your choice but not worth the cost. It's basic training that allows you to ask questions but all information was in the manuals.
PJ

IrTxRx · May 5, 2004

thanks for the information about the training course. I'll buy sight unseen if I buy.

Another question -
One nice thing about a tractor is you can throw a chain around something very big and put the transmission in Low-Low & Go. It may take forever, but you can move a house off its foundations even with a smaller tractor (obviously assuming your wheels don't spin and you don't flip the tractor over backwards).

How well does a PT "tug" since it doesn't really have a range of gears/outputs???

As always,
Thank you for your input

BTW - recent price increases make the 1445 about %50 more expensive than a Century 43HP 4WD 12f/12r + FEL/BB/shredder I can get here in Texas. I am drawn to the PT (like a moth to a flame /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif) but am having a hard time justifying $9K more for a PT with similar lift capacity.