Don’t think the surface material shown will pack or hold its shape. You require a crushed well graded gravel.
A rear blade with gauge wheels would work best for bringing in the sides and shaping the road. Scarifying well first would really help. The gauge wheels will really help with a back blade.
The stages:
scarify
pull up the edges and define ditches
roll a windrow of material back and forth to fill in hollows and get
nice smooth grade. This is very important. One pass just doesn’t
do it. Rolling a windrow will also help mix the aggregate on the road. The vertical angle of the back blade is important to do this
correctly.
You may end up up with a few larger rocks on top. Blade these into the ditch.
Then a vibratory drum compactor.
Now you would be ready for additional crushed gravel. ( 3/4 in. And less )
The tilt of the blade and the angle can be varied so certain tasks can be carried out. Again one setting just don’t do it.
If you fill ruts and other low spots as I understand the comment about wind-rowing material back and forth to fill low spots, expect as heavy trucks come down the drive (ups and others) for the gravel even hard packed to be pushed out of those ruts.
Runs and other low spots need the soil that is higher ‘busted’ up and reshaped. Point in case, if your county maintenance routine is to grade grave into the potholes, how long before the potholes are back often worse than before graded? Depending in traffic a few days!
Number 1 (it also occupies 2-10) thing in my opinion of living on gravel most of my lifetime and having gravel drives!
WATER!
You need at least one ditch (2 is 10x better) beside the entire run of your drive. Drive needs to be sloped so water quickly runs into the ditch and not length of the drive. The drive needs to be at its lowest point (edge(s)) higher than the lip of the ditch next to the drive.
Until the water is dealt with, you will always have issues with your drive way rutting.
A good condition driveway is in my opinion a great selling feature for a home, but may not be an expense that will be recouped in the selling price.
I am a firm believer that their are implements that really shine for a given purpose but may not be worth much in other activities. (A tiller being a point in case, if you need to break up soil for any variety if purposes, it is the implement to have, but to break up gravel covered potholes is pretty useless as the gravel prevents the digging, and if gravel is removed, it general breaks the soil much more finely than desired for a drive way base.
The best implement for routine drive way maintenance in my opinion is a land plane with scarifiers. While not a 1 trick pony, it pretty much is limited to leveling and redistributing material. You can not move material as you could with a box blade.
When you build the new house, make sure the new drive has Water dealt with, a solid compacted base that is higher than ditch lip.
Educate yourself, so that you know what you need in your area. This will let you know when that ‘professional’ is blowing smoke. You can understand the process through education without having done the work.