Desperately need to fix driveway

   #61  

Snobdds

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LoL...ditches are not the surrounding terrain...duh...! like I said if the road was higher there would be no need for ditches (in many cases)...

You build the road then cut the ditches...you don't dig the ditches and then build the road up higher...LoL...!

I spent 40+ years as a GC...educational background was a plus but never certed as a CE...late in life I went back and studied computer science (UNIX system admin)....what I've learned about AI has mostly been from reading and listening to lectures

Not surrounding terrain? Does surrounding terrain even matter beyond the ditches?

So all your tale of being an AI expert is just from reading? Gotcha.
 
   #62  

CoyPatton

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"Crusher run" (usually defined as 3/4" minus) packs tightly together and is what works best.
"Creek gravel" is small rounded stones, and will not stay in place!

Glad you agree on creek gravel!

I agree crusher run holds together best.
However having had those sloping curves (please go back and look at OP’s photos post #1), I have watched the fines in my crusher run, wash right down the slope with running water, this after it was compacted. Reality is reality!
 
   #63  

/pine

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Not surrounding terrain? Does surrounding terrain even matter beyond the ditches?

So all your tale of being an AI expert is just from reading? Gotcha.

You really should take your own advise and read more slowly...!

The replies I was referencing stated that the road bed needed building up...it's much easier to lower the ditches...like I said you don't cut the ditches and then build the road up...!

About the surrounding terrain being significant...it does when the grades determine where the controlled water (ditches etc.) can be "turned loose" ...

Whether you realize it or not...true AI is still at least a decade away...what you refer to as AI is like the analog version of artificial intelligence...The first true quantum computers are still at least ten years away...

BTW...There are bots swarming the Internet that are 10 times more sophisticated than IBM's watson...!
 
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   #64  

fried1765

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Glad you agree on creek gravel!

I agree crusher run holds together best.
However having had those sloping curves (please go back and look at OP’s photos post #1), I have watched the fines in my crusher run, wash right down the slope with running water, this after it was compacted. Reality is reality!
My solution to the fines being washed away on a slope was to grade with my rear blade, and fold the larger crushed gravel pieces into the areas tending to wash out.
 
   #65  

CoyPatton

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My solution to the fines being washed away on a slope was to grade with my rear blade, and fold the larger crushed gravel pieces into the areas tending to wash out.

And my point which again you agree with is there is no easy fix it and leave it with the slopes and run off, it will have ti be touched up from time to time. With a low rider vehicle, the interval will not be long term during heavy rains.
 
   #66  

DaveD1944

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Try lengthening the top link all the way so the box blade rides on the rear blade only.
Bruce, this is standard practice and I did this many years ago when I was trying to make the box scraper work, but it made no difference--the box still filled up with gravel. Yesterday I removed the scarifier shanks, the front-facing blade, and the hinged rear gate, slightly over 150 lbs. total, tilted it all the way back with the top link fully extended, lowered it to the ground in float mode with only the rear-facing blade in use, and it still dug in deeply and collected massive amounts of gravel in the box.

As described by Land Pride in their user's manuals, the box scraper is made to move lots of material from place to place. If I could control the height of the box scraper with the 3-point hitch controls it might work. But every part of my driveway and especially the part that needs the most maintenance is either a convex or concave curve of varying radius, and the only thing that will work is allowing the implement, whatever it is, to float on the gravel surface.

Coming to terms with what I need to do to make this less work as I grow older, I am seriously thinking now of a grader scraper. It is made to float on its skids and would have to be used that way. But from several threads in TractorByNet I gather that these are also not without their problems, especially with loose gravel, so I need to research further.

If I need to go much farther with this I may start another thread. TractorByNet has several on the subject, but they are getting old and don't answer all of the concerns I have, and I find this forum to be very helpful.

A photo of the most difficult part of the drive, the ~350 ft. over a drainage area, is attached. The drop to the drain pipe is about 12 feet, so washout was a problem with heavy rains and a crusher run surface until I had it re-graveled, and the heavier gravel stopped the erosion completely, but it moves about more freely.

2021 06 front drive.jpg

Thanks for your help, Dave Dalton
 
   #67  

/pine

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If a box blade is still cutting aggressively moving forward with the top link fully extended...something is wrong... likely too short of top link...

BTW...the 3PH is always in float...there is no need to detent a T&T cylinder into float....
 
   #68  

deezler

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Here's my recent thread about wanting a land-plane scraper, and being advised by forum members to try extending the top link and using my box blade instead.


Long story short, it mostly worked. You need to get the box blade tipped wayyyy back, so that the front facing blade doesn't scrape much at all, and so that the sides dont hold material.

OriDHKMh.jpg


OFtToDbh.jpg
 
   #69  

CoyPatton

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Using the rear blade on a box scraper can have the desired effect mentioned, but can be difficult to obtain as many times the top link will not extend enough to obtain the desired effect.
When you think about it, often people want to shorten a TL to get the most aggressiveness from the BB scarifiers, thus they end up with a short TL and can not obtain the desired effect.
The desired effect might be simpler with a rear blade reversed. The length of the TL can have an effect on the results but much less drastically. This was often my go to for a quick dress up. Basic blades can usually be found on marketplace. Price varies widely with width, condition and functions. If you want an offset tilting blade, they will be less common, less availability, and cost more. If you want a simple reversal blade they are usually readily available and reasonably price varying usually by age and condition.
 
   #70  

fried1765

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Here's my recent thread about wanting a land-plane scraper, and being advised by forum members to try extending the top link and using my box blade instead.


Long story short, it mostly worked. You need to get the box blade tipped wayyyy back, so that the front facing blade doesn't scrape much at all, and so that the sides dont hold material.

OriDHKMh.jpg


OFtToDbh.jpg
A box blade is absolutely not the proper tool for driveway maintenance!
A box blade simply cannot properly bring material back to the center that has migrated to the driveway edges.
A rear scrape blade is the proper driveway maintenance tool!

That driveway looks decent, but should definitely have more fines to help hold it together, to lessen surface material migration.
 
 
 
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