Did I just get screwed?

[Devildog77]

So, I just picked up a used 2022 Branson 2400H today with 28 hours on it. Test drove it, all the hydraulics, PTO… looked fine. I couldn’t find the window to check the hydraulic fluid and the guy didn’t know where it was either. I opened the fill plug and look in the case and it looked low to me, but he didn’t think it was. Ok, everything else checked out and it ran smoothly and it only has 28 hrs.

I finally get home two hours away and after scouring the internet and useless owners manual I find the transmission fluid dipstick and it is bone dry. How big an issue is this if the hyrdraulics were all still working in all directions? Just fill it and forget it? Why would it not be at least full enough to wet the dipstick if it only has 28 hrs? Do these have slow leak if the tractor sits for awhile outside in all weather? Thanks for any insight.

 

[Citydude]

With only 28 hours and if no visible leaks, chances are the dealer who sold it didn't fill it to the full mark. I'd fill it and check for leaks periodically.

 

[Devildog77]

With only 28 hours and if no visible leaks, chances are the dealer who sold it didn't fill it to the full mark. I'd fill it and check for leaks periodically.

Thanks City dude! Now if I can just find the fancy transmission fluid…

 

[Citydude]

Thanks City dude! Now if I can just find the fancy transmission fluid…

Should be stated in the manual what to use.

 

[CalG]

The stick being "bone dry" means very little. There are Gallons of fluid in a typical tractor transmission/ hydraulic sump.
The stick may show "dry" only a few liters low. (I can't say about any particular model)

Just think of the volume exchange if all the hydraulic systems are fully extended (3pt and loader etc.) vs fully collapsed. The systems are accommodating, as long as the pump doesn't run on air. That's why the fluid pickup is placed low on the sump.

Get a service manual (might cost a hundred bucks, but will save you thousands!)
Fill to the level under the prescribed conditions.

UTTO works! The premium stuff might be less noisy!

 

[Yander]

As others have stated, nothing to be concerned about. The tractor simply wouldn't have operated correctly before it would have done damage.

Not the same as engine oil.

Congrats on a nice tractor, post pics and start enjoying it.

 

[Devildog77]

As others have stated, nothing to be concerned about. The tractor simply wouldn't have operated correctly before it would have done damage.

Not the same as engine oil.

Congrats on a nice tractor, post pics and start enjoying it.

Thanks for the response, do you think it is safe to use the Mag 1 transmission/hydro oil at Ace Hardwear, that or the Tractor Supply Company Premium? Both seem to meet the requirements, but hard to tell without a direct comparison to the recommended Texaco the manual says.

 

[Devildog77]

The stick being "bone dry" means very little. There are Gallons of fluid in a typical tractor transmission/ hydraulic sump.
The stick may show "dry" only a few liters low. (I can't say about any particular model)

Just think of the volume exchange if all the hydraulic systems are fully extended (3pt and loader etc.) vs fully collapsed. The systems are accommodating, as long as the pump doesn't run on air. That's why the fluid pickup is placed low on the sump.

Get a service manual (might cost a hundred bucks, but will save you thousands!)
Fill to the level under the prescribed conditions.

UTTO works! The premium stuff might be less noisy!

Thanks very much for the insight.

 

[aesanders]

When you check this, you need to make sure you relieved all hydraulic pressure, ie after turning engine off, play with the loader stick, and lower rear pt hitch to settle the fluid.

 

[oldnslo]

As a point of reference The 2400H holds a little over 3 gallons. I don’t remember exactly how much.
On mine you have to pull the dipstick, wipe it off and then recheck since the tube will occasionally trap oil and give you a false reading.

Also do not recall volume required to go from add to full mark. I would add half gallon check, add a little more check since it fills up quick.

3 point up or down is not enough volume difference to matter.

 

[DynamicD]

Here is a list of TYM/Branson "official" approved fluids. Id say any quality Tractor Hydraulic fluid is fine

 

[dodge man]

I agree, nothing to worry about. I suppose if the fluid was so low it was sucking air and you continued to try to use it damage could be done but it sounds like everything worked when you tried it out so you should be good. Let us know how much fluid it took to fill it up. It might take as little as a quart or two.

 

[paulsharvey]

With only 28 hours and if no visible leaks, chances are the dealer who sold it didn't fill it to the full mark. I'd fill it and check for leaks periodically.

My assumption, it was full or near full, before they cycles the hydralics, and those hold several gallons. If you didn't hear the high pitched whine of the starved hydro system, I think your fine.

I would drain and refill before doing much more usage, and change filters too. I know it's only 28 hours, but I would rather spend the $100-150, and have an established baseline.

 

[paulsharvey]

While you are checking everything, check axles for gear oil, clean radiator/radiator chaff screen, grease fittings, ect.

Also, air filter, check that it doesn't have moose chewing, and then remove and blow out with compressed air, and wipe out air filter housing.

 

[Yander]

Thanks for the response, do you think it is safe to use the Mag 1 transmission/hydro oil at Ace Hardwear, that or the Tractor Supply Company Premium? Both seem to meet the requirements, but hard to tell without a direct comparison to the recommended Texaco the manual says.

I would consult your manual or call a tym dealer on that. I don't know much about the Branson

 

[paulsharvey]

It's Not 100% perfect, but you can look at what JD spec is listed on the "recommended" fluid, and make sure the oil you are looking at in store lists that same JD spec.

 

[oldnslo]

I chose to use JD hygard in mine since is small volume of oil and have JD dealers in every town around here. I am not a fan of using generic oils on hydrostatic drives. They may be fine but for four gallons of oil is savings enough??

Would also recommend using factory filter since once is a suction filter and there have been some reports of aftermarket causing pump to starve for oil.

 

[BleedingOrange]

If your fluid is clear, it is very hard to see the level on the dipstick. John Deere has a red additive you can add to it which helps a lot to make it much more visible.

 

[rScotty]

I chose to use JD hygard in mine since is small volume of oil and have JD dealers in every town around here. I am not a fan of using generic oils on hydrostatic drives. They may be fine but for four gallons of oil is savings enough??

Would also recommend using factory filter since once is a suction filter and there have been some reports of aftermarket causing pump to starve for oil.

I'd say the same thing. There are no standards for trans/hydraulic oil like there is for engine oil.
It makes sense to use a name brand oil. JD HyGard is reasonably priced and available everywhere.
The hydraulic filter is a suction type, so best stay with the factory filter.

BTW, since the hydraulics still worked I doubt you did any damage. As others have said, that system holds gallons of fluid. I think my Kubota holds somewhere around 12 gallons, and only the last gallon or two shows on the dipstick.

When a hydraulic system begins to starve for oil all the hydraulic unctions quit working and the noise is very loud - you wouldn't miss hearing it.

I like to change all the engne, trans/hydraulic fluid (which is also the rear axle fluid in tractors)) and the front axle oils along with all the filters. I do that for sure in the first 50 to 100 hours of operation and that is when I put in my top quality oils and filters. Doing that at low hours gets rid of all the manufacturing swarf and dirt.
And then I go to standard maintenance intervals or longer. If the tractor is used for light occasional chore work, and I have used top quality synthetic oil and OEM filters I will extend the intervals up to double.
However, I will shorten the intervals if the work is heavy, or high RPM, or if the machine smells like it has been running hot.

I personally buy the best oils because it seems like cheap insurance. But those real good fluids are costly - especially all those gallons of JD HyGard trans/hydraulic fluid. And honestly I must say in my 50+ years as a mechanic I have never seen a case of engine/tranny wear or failure that I could definitely blame on poor quality oil - as long as there was enough of it and it was roughly the right type oil.
....And I've drained some pretty funky oil - particularly out of old machines back when before detergent oils became the standard. Some I'm sure had never been changed -only added to - and even on hose the moving parts were fine.

I have seen wear and failure due to water getting into the oil - especially the trans/hydraulic oil which seems to attract water and turn milky and rust parts. And I've also seen failures due to poor quality filters as well as due to air leaks in hydraulic suction lines feeding the hydraulic pump.

Mostly it is just common sense.
rScotty

 

[sd455dan]

Op if you didn't see it one of the members posted a list of linked servicing manuals here:

Servicing Manuals for Branson - Google Drive

drive.google.com