Did I purchase the right trailer?

[RollTideRam]

I'm glad you got a better trailer and your happy with it. I'm also glad you kept your receipt so you take back the other trailer. Be careful towing with your Jeep, don't get in a hurry and you should be okay. JC

 

[SamWalton]

I just got off the phone with my trailer dealer and the 9950 GVWR option is a California thing and in Oklahoma no CDL is required for the 10400 GVWR.

 

[SamWalton]

I picked up our new custom trailer and encountered some problems. While connecting the trailer to my jeep, the diodes smoked. I am sure they miss wired the breakaway battery circuit. After removing the battery and the burnt charging circuit all signals worked fine. After getting the trailer home I took some photos and inspected the design and workmanship. I found what I consider a major problem. The ramp storage was changed by the MFR from side removal to rear and from 5' to 6' ramps. When they did this they may as well welded in a solid axel with no suspension because the axel has a 1/4" before it hits the ramp storage frame. I think they should build a new trailer I don't want a cut and hack for $3600. I should have ordered a 2 dovetail and they would have put the ramps in the side. What should I do?

 

[ed fewlass]

My trailer dealer will trade up no problem. I will bring the old one back tomorrow. The trailer I am concerned about is constructed as follows: Frame: 4x3x1/4, Top rail: 3x2x3/16, Cross members: 3x2x3/16, Tongue: 5" Channel, Uprights: 3x2x3/16, Tongue Brace: 3" Channel. This is a nice trailer but when I pull facing front, my rear tires land on the center of the only large span cross support between the two axles. Top Hat Trailers


I think I am going to order the Deluxe Car Hauler 7000 Series found at the following link Top Hat Trailers The trailer is constructed as follows: Frame: 5" Channel, Front Bump Rail: 2" Square Tube, Cross members: 3x2x3/16, Tongue: 5" Channel Wrap, Tongue Brace: 3" Channel, Floor To Fender Height: 10" I was going to add the following options: Spare Tire & Wheel, Surge Brake 7K, Diamond Plate Tear Drop Fenders (Radius), 7000# Drop Leg Jack. For and additional $300 I could upgrade it to a 9500# GVWR. This option would add two 5200# Axles, 2 5/16" Bulldog Coupler, 225/15 Tires, 7000# Drop Leg Jack and 3" Channel Cross members.

Do you all think this trailer will move my B26 safely? Also is the 9500# GVWR necessary? I am worried about adding to much weight for my Jeep Liberty. I have the 5K tow package and I know I will be over by 1500 lbs. I only plan on a few short trips and later I will purchase a truck. Thanks for all your advice!

you can pull 4000# of tractor with a jeep liberty thats sounds kind of small

 

[SamWalton]

you can pull 4000# of tractor with a jeep liberty thats sounds kind of small

I will purchase a truck if and when I need to haul my B26 any distance. Currently I will move it about 5 mile to the home site.

For now I am more concerned about the axle having no travel.

 

[ed fewlass]

I picked up our new custom trailer and encountered some problems. While connecting the trailer to my jeep, the diodes smoked. I am sure they miss wired the breakaway battery circuit. After removing the battery and the burnt charging circuit all signals worked fine. After getting the trailer home I took some photos and inspected the design and workmanship. I found what I consider a major problem. The ramp storage was changed by the MFR from side removal to rear and from 5' to 6' ramps. When they did this they may as well welded in a solid axel with no suspension because the axel has a 1/4" before it hits the ramp storage frame. I think they should build a new trailer I don't want a cut and hack for $3600. I should have ordered a 2 dovetail and they would have put the ramps in the side. What should I do?

so let me get this straight you spent 3600.00 to move a tractor 5 miles and you are still not happy with it

 

[Rara Avis]

I just got off the phone with my trailer dealer and the 9950 GVWR option is a California thing and in Oklahoma no CDL is required for the 10400 GVWR.

Don't cross statelines with a 10400 GVWR trailer...

Check with your insurance company...to see if they'll deny coverage if you happen to get into an accident with your grossly under-rated tow vehicle...

I'm NOT saying you can't do it...I just want your to be aware of pitfalls...

 

[dknarnd]

I don't think everyone heard the entire story from the start. Only hauling 5 miles and not even a daily thing, using a Liberty as a tow vehicle.

I would think he could have gotten away with the first trailer for now then when he buys the truck get the appropriate trailer at that time. Since it is only five miles more than one trip is possible if he needed to bring more "stuff" to the site. If you were concerned about the wood on the first trailer during tow all you had to beef up was that particular area.

That trailer is overkill for hauling materials behind a Liberty the first trailer would have been ok for materials and hauled his tractor the five miles when needed.

 

[RollTideRam]

I beleive I would take the trailer back and start all over with a new dealer. JC

 

[NHbotanut]

Are you sure about the 1/4"?? It looks like a litte more in the pic. I don't know enough about steel, but I don't think the trailer would flex that much.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would take that trailer back asap. Actually I would not have left the dealership with it but thats me. I am a trailer sales man, boat trailer, but its relevant. The wiring is crap, no conduit or grommets, no undercoat or paint on the trailer, too many red flags for me.

Looks like you got a $1500 trailer for your $3,600


Yes, I can buy that trailer for $1500 or so in my parts with used tires. Maybe a few dollars more now with the price of steel but I know its not over $2,000. I know its going to need some work on the wiring and some undercoat applies plus new tires in a year or so. But spending $3,600 I would expect better.

Take it back and do your research before buying another.

Chris

 

[SamWalton]

Are you sure about the 1/4"?? It looks like a litte more in the pic. I don't know enough about steel, but I don't think the trailer would flex that much.

It may be up to a half inch before the rear axle bottoms out on the ramp storage angles.

I don't plan on using my Jeep Liberty to do many moves and will get an appropriate vehicle in the near future. I will get lots of used out of this trailer for the many task of building our new home and we will register our hobby farm as soon as I complete our land purchase. Also it is perfectly legal to use our Jeep Liberty to pull our trailer and a load provided it doesn't exceed the max rating of our Jeep. This is not to say that pulling the trailer and the B26 is under the 5000 lbs rating.

 

[SamWalton]

I would take that trailer back asap. Actually I would not have left the dealership with it but thats me. I am a trailer sales man, boat trailer, but its relevant. The wiring is crap, no conduit or grommets, no undercoat or paint on the trailer, too many red flags for me.

Looks like you got a $1500 trailer for your $3,600


Yes, I can buy that trailer for $1500 or so in my parts with used tires. Maybe a few dollars more now with the price of steel but I know its not over $2,000. I know its going to need some work on the wiring and some undercoat applies plus new tires in a year or so. But spending $3,600 I would expect better.

Take it back and do your research before buying another.

Chris

I was unaware of the ramp storage interfering with the rear axle movement at the time of pickup. I am not too worried; my credit card will pull back the funds if we can't settle this problem. I am not too happy with the workmanship but in Oklahoma this is great quality compared to may of the trailer manufacturers.

If you don't mind I would like you opinion since you are quite knowledgeable in the trailer businesses. How do you feel about the rear axles travel limited by the ramp installation? I felt it is a big deal. Do you think I should accept a cut and hack repair or should they build a new one from scratch or maybe return and get a full refund?

 

[Crash101]

Sam
Hopefully the trailer purchase will result with a happy ending. I'm having a trailer custom made for me here in north west Mississippi. It should be done in a day or so and I hope to get some pictures when I pick it up. They've done some work for me before and I couldn't be happier with their work. I've looked every size trailer built all over the country and havn't seen anything better for less than these guys build. You have a bit of a tight specification with needing something light and short enough for the liberty to pull and big enough for the B26 (love that B26). Let me know if you can't get satisfaction from your dealer. I guarantee the guys at Good-Man trailer in Horn lake Mississippi can make you something a whole lot nicer and for less money than what you're finding out there.

 

[George2615]

I agree with the others.
1) Longer ramps that store over the back axle will hit when the trailer is loaded. In fact you may not get them to store after you load the trailer if the springs compress too much.
2) If you keep the trailer the entire underside metal needs to be primed, painted, or undercoated.
3) Car insurance company may not cover you in an accident. An accident may not be your fault but a good lawyer would eat you up for hauling your load with the Jeep.
4) Wiring should not have fried.

I'd take it back with the above complaints and ask them to relocate the ramp storage, fix the wiring, and undercoat and/or paint the underside that's already rusting. For that kind of money it should be made right.

 

[SamWalton]

Sam
Hopefully the trailer purchase will result with a happy ending. I'm having a trailer custom made for me here in north west Mississippi. It should be done in a day or so and I hope to get some pictures when I pick it up. They've done some work for me before and I couldn't be happier with their work. I've looked every size trailer built all over the country and havn't seen anything better for less than these guys build. You have a bit of a tight specification with needing something light and short enough for the liberty to pull and big enough for the B26 (love that B26). Let me know if you can't get satisfaction from your dealer. I guarantee the guys at Good-Man trailer in Horn lake Mississippi can make you something a whole lot nicer and for less money than what you're finding out there.

I got the call from my dealer and TopHat is going to build a new trailer with the 6' ramps on the side to avoid this mistake again. I like that TopHat makes a very sturdy design with lots of extra welds, but on this trailer a factory salesman suggested moving the ramps from the side to the rear without checking for fit. They will make it right and I am fine with that. I don't understand why they don't paint all metal surfaces. I will offer extra to have it completely painted before they install the deck.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I got the call from my dealer and TopHat is going to build a new trailer with the 6' ramps on the side to avoid this mistake again. I like that TopHat makes a very sturdy design with lots of extra welds, but on this trailer a factory salesman suggested moving the ramps from the side to the rear without checking for fit. They will make it right and I am fine with that. I don't understand why they don't paint all metal surfaces. I will offer extra to have it completely painted before they install the deck.

You have them on the right track. I am glad they are building you a new trailer. There would be nothing wrong with them repairing your trailer if they made the right cuts and did good welds. But a whole new unit is much better. Make them fix that wiring. It should not run through metal with out some sort of grommet or conduit is even better yet. Chaffed wires is where we have the most troubles with wiring on the boat trailers I sell.

As for the ramps the way they were it would be a problem. Especially when going up or down a street curb or something similar like at the end of my fathers drive.

As for your Liberty I am glad you are getting a bigger truck. Here in Indiana it is illegal to tow a trailer that has a higher GVWR than the trucks tow capacity, even empty. That means if your trailer is rated at 10,200# you would need a truck with a 10,201# tow rating. Even if the trailer was just used to tow a 3,000# tractor and the trailer weighed 2,000# for a total of 5,000# you still need a truck with the appropriate tow rating. In your case you will need a 1/2 ton or larger with 10,201# plus tow rating. I know the F-150 and the Tundra fall in this category in certain configurations. Not sure about Nissan, GM, or Dodge but I am sure you can find out. Do your RESEARCH! Do not listen to the sales man. Verify all tow numbers and check your local regs.

Chris

Chris

 

[KeithInSpace]

As for your Liberty I am glad you are getting a bigger truck.

Concur. Liberty is too small. I'd feel like I have JUST enough truck towing that rig behind my Expedition rated for 9,400#.

Nice trailer, though. Very clean.

Here in Indiana it is illegal to tow a trailer that has a higher GVWR than the trucks tow capacity, even empty. That means if your trailer is rated at 10,200# you would need a truck with a 10,201# tow rating.

I've seen this many, many times and I just don't get that logic. Obviously, every state is different, but I wanted to satisfy myself that A) It is easy to find out the "truth", and B) I am towing legal in Virginia with my 10,400# trailer behind my 9,400# rated Expedition.

ｧ 46.2-704. Prohibited operations; checking on weights; penalties.

A. No person shall operate or permit the operation of any motor vehicle, trailer, or semitrailer for which the fee for registration is prescribed by ｧ 46.2-697 on any highway in the Commonwealth, under any of the following circumstances:

1. Without first having paid the registration fee hereinabove prescribed.

2. If, at the time of the operation, the gross weight of the vehicle or of the combination of vehicles of which it is a part, is in excess of the gross weight on the basis of which it is registered. In any case where a pickup truck is used in combination with another vehicle, operation shall be unlawful only if the combined gross weight exceeds the combined gross weight on the basis of which each vehicle is registered.

B. Any officer authorized to enforce the motor vehicle laws, having reason to believe that the gross weight of any motor vehicle, trailer, or semitrailer being operated on any highway in the Commonwealth exceeds that on the basis of which the vehicle is registered, may weigh the vehicle by whatever means the Superintendent may prescribe and the operator, or other person in possession of the vehicle, shall permit this weighing whenever requested by the officer.

Clearly the foregoing states that you can't operate a vehicle in excess of the GVWR of the combination of the tow vehicle or the trailer on the basis of each vehicles registration:
---You can't LOAD your vehicle beyond its individual GVWR;
---You can't LOAD your trailer over IT'S weight rating (as OPERATED...registered weight being the upper limit here).
---You can't TOW over your trailer rating of your tow vehicle (as OPERATED...using the lowest combination of the GVWR of your trailer and tow vehicle);
This all seems quite sensible.

The code does NOT say that you can't tow a trailer that is RATED for more than your tow capacity. It clearly states "gross weight of any motor vehicle, trailer...OPERATED on...any highway...exceeds that on the basis of which the vehicle is registered..." The code further states that the officer can choose to weigh you out should the officer request to do so.

This all makes sense.

As I said...didn't check each of the 50 states, but this thing about illegal to tow a trailer RATED for more than your GVWR is easy to throw out there as a scare. CHECK YOUR CODE. As you can see, there is at least one state out there that makes sense in this regard...thank goodness I live in it...

 

[Diamondpilot]

Concur. Liberty is too small. I'd feel like I have JUST enough truck towing that rig behind my Expedition rated for 9,400#.

Nice trailer, though. Very clean.


I've seen this many, many times and I just don't get that logic. Obviously, every state is different, but I wanted to satisfy myself that A) It is easy to find out the "truth", and B) I am towing legal in Virginia with my 10,400# trailer behind my 9,400# rated Expedition.



Clearly the foregoing states that you can't operate a vehicle in excess of the GVWR of the combination of the tow vehicle or the trailer on the basis of each vehicles registration:
---You can't LOAD your vehicle beyond its individual GVWR;
---You can't LOAD your trailer over IT'S weight rating (as OPERATED...registered weight being the upper limit here).
---You can't TOW over your trailer rating of your tow vehicle (as OPERATED...using the lowest combination of the GVWR of your trailer and tow vehicle);
This all seems quite sensible.

The code does NOT say that you can't tow a trailer that is RATED for more than your tow capacity. It clearly states "gross weight of any motor vehicle, trailer...OPERATED on...any highway...exceeds that on the basis of which the vehicle is registered..." The code further states that the officer can choose to weigh you out should the officer request to do so.

This all makes sense.

As I said...didn't check each of the 50 states, but this thing about illegal to tow a trailer RATED for more than your GVWR is easy to throw out there as a scare. CHECK YOUR CODE. As you can see, there is at least one state out there that makes sense in this regard...thank goodness I live in it...

I agree that it is different in each state. I live near the Ohio/Indiana line and I sell most of my boats to Ohio residents. In Indiana all you have to do is get the trailer, register it, and tow it. In Ohio if its over 3,000# you have to have yearly inspections, ect. Some states like Kentucky don't even require brakes as where here in Indiana all we have to have is brakes on trailers over 3,500# but it does not say on how many axles where as some states require brakes on each axle.

What I am saying here is the rules change from state to state and my trailer manufactures know the laws for each state. I only know the two states I deal in. The first question my manufactures ask me is what boat the trailer is hauling and the next is what state is it going to.

Chris

 

[tlbuser]

I don't understand why they don't paint all metal surfaces. I will offer extra to have it completely painted before they install the deck.

See if they'll use weatherproof connectors too. The ones pictured have a tendency to cause corrosion.