DIY Tire chains

[mwb]

You might want to try just fronts first; there have been comments that front chains are hard on it but I don't see how chains on snow/ice can be any worse than loading a bucket of gravel... My dad had major problems with his rear blade stuffing him into the ditch on his Kubota L3400 - set of front chains and the problem was fixed. The rear end might get pushed around but at least he can steer into it.:thumbsup: His tractor was useless in snow (hilly drive) until he put the front chains on.

 

[Short Game]

My one experience in serious snow saw me stuck numerous times, sliding into trouble, not driving into it. Nearly everything around here has off-camber sections. My R4s just slid sideways. Chaining up the fronts helped a lot, but not enough. The only things that were getting around were 4X4 trucks and Jeeps with chains. I resolved at that time to not get caught out like that again. No one else is going to be plowing the driveway for me and my neighbors. We are 1000 feet from where the county plows, and we need to get that far.

 

[mwb]

My driveway is about 1000 feet also but flat. I want chains but can't realy justify them (yet ). Have chains on all four wheels of my atv though! wouldn't be without them. I love tire chains :cloud9:

 

[Short Game]

Well, I took a trip out into meat space today, and nowhere did I find the prices I found on that website 3000 miles away. I may go with 1/4" chain.

 

[yelbike]

I like the z shape or triangle design diy chain. Has anyone ever tried to make chains that look like the skidder type chains with the large circle link on the tread. I have r4s and I'm afraid normal chains will simply fall between the lugs and be of no use.

 

[mwb]

I think with the triangle pattern they will work ok - at least better than just straight bars. If you leave a little slack in the chains then they will fall out of the lugs and get driven on by the tire tread. I think they will work fine.

I tried to think of a nifty way to make rings or add additional radial links to improve ground contact but everything seemed to add a lot of work and expense.

If you really need skidder quality chains (with cleats) then it might be more economical to buy them.

 

[204saskman]

Well i was gonna get chain the other day but 5/16 was almost $2.49/foot for grd 30. So im gonna wait for it to go on sale as the one guy said it goes on quiet often and its usually a buck less per foot. Now im having a hard time finding 7/0 side chain. Might just end up Harrow chain as its plenty big.

 

[204saskman]

Well i got some extra clamps for installing more cross chains. I also broke down and bought a pair of pliers for working on chains. its gonna cost me about 250 to modify my chains in the end but it was gonna be almost 500 for the chains if i had bought them new. So im not doing to bad. Ill post some pictures once i get the chain all cut up this weekend and i start modifying mine to work better with my tires(original chains on tractor were free so really its costing me 250 for new rear chains)

 

[The Haymaker]

I'm holding out for a set of used chains off a bucket loader from one of the City Garages I deliver new Canadian Chains to. All these ideas will come in handy when it comes time to start modifying.

 

[204saskman]

I'm holding out for a set of used chains off a bucket loader from one of the City Garages I deliver new Canadian Chains to. All these ideas will come in handy when it comes time to start modifying.

Ya man. Im only making them wider cause of the simple fact is the chains wont stay on right now as they are to narrow. Im making the crosslinks 18" so it will be just about 21" by the time i am done. My tires are 14.00 wide and my current chains were for 11.00-24.5 truck tires and they were only maybe 15" overall so adding the 3" to each side will make a big difference. Im going with 5/16 chain for the back but im gonna use 1/4" chain for my fronts as there not very big.