DIY Tire chains

   / DIY Tire chains #21  
You might want to try just fronts first; there have been comments that front chains are hard on it but I don't see how chains on snow/ice can be any worse than loading a bucket of gravel... My dad had major problems with his rear blade stuffing him into the ditch on his Kubota L3400 - set of front chains and the problem was fixed. The rear end might get pushed around but at least he can steer into it.:thumbsup: His tractor was useless in snow (hilly drive) until he put the front chains on.
 
   / DIY Tire chains #22  
My one experience in serious snow saw me stuck numerous times, sliding into trouble, not driving into it. Nearly everything around here has off-camber sections. My R4s just slid sideways. Chaining up the fronts helped a lot, but not enough. The only things that were getting around were 4X4 trucks and Jeeps with chains. I resolved at that time to not get caught out like that again. No one else is going to be plowing the driveway for me and my neighbors. We are 1000 feet from where the county plows, and we need to get that far.
 
   / DIY Tire chains #23  
My driveway is about 1000 feet also but flat. I want chains but can't realy justify them (yet :cool:). Have chains on all four wheels of my atv though! wouldn't be without them. I love tire chains :cloud9:
 
   / DIY Tire chains #24  
Well, I took a trip out into meat space today, and nowhere did I find the prices I found on that website 3000 miles away. I may go with 1/4" chain.
 
   / DIY Tire chains #25  
I like the z shape or triangle design diy chain. Has anyone ever tried to make chains that look like the skidder type chains with the large circle link on the tread. I have r4s and I'm afraid normal chains will simply fall between the lugs and be of no use.
 
   / DIY Tire chains #26  
I think with the triangle pattern they will work ok - at least better than just straight bars. If you leave a little slack in the chains then they will fall out of the lugs and get driven on by the tire tread. I think they will work fine.

I tried to think of a nifty way to make rings or add additional radial links to improve ground contact but everything seemed to add a lot of work and expense.

If you really need skidder quality chains (with cleats) then it might be more economical to buy them.
 
   / DIY Tire chains
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#27  
Well i was gonna get chain the other day but 5/16 was almost $2.49/foot for grd 30. So im gonna wait for it to go on sale as the one guy said it goes on quiet often and its usually a buck less per foot. Now im having a hard time finding 7/0 side chain. Might just end up Harrow chain as its plenty big.
 
   / DIY Tire chains
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#28  
Well i got some extra clamps for installing more cross chains. I also broke down and bought a pair of pliers for working on chains. its gonna cost me about 250 to modify my chains in the end but it was gonna be almost 500 for the chains if i had bought them new. So im not doing to bad. Ill post some pictures once i get the chain all cut up this weekend and i start modifying mine to work better with my tires(original chains on tractor were free so really its costing me 250 for new rear chains)
 
   / DIY Tire chains #29  
I'm holding out for a set of used chains off a bucket loader from one of the City Garages I deliver new Canadian Chains to. All these ideas will come in handy when it comes time to start modifying.
 
   / DIY Tire chains
  • Thread Starter
#30  
I'm holding out for a set of used chains off a bucket loader from one of the City Garages I deliver new Canadian Chains to. All these ideas will come in handy when it comes time to start modifying.

Ya man. Im only making them wider cause of the simple fact is the chains wont stay on right now as they are to narrow. Im making the crosslinks 18" so it will be just about 21" by the time i am done. My tires are 14.00 wide and my current chains were for 11.00-24.5 truck tires and they were only maybe 15" overall so adding the 3" to each side will make a big difference. Im going with 5/16 chain for the back but im gonna use 1/4" chain for my fronts as there not very big.
 
   / DIY Tire chains
  • Thread Starter
#31  
Well my camera died on me so i couldnt take pictures of my modifications. I ended up getting 45' of 5/16 chain and i cut them into 20" instead of 18" as i found 18" was just barley enough and i wanted good side wall wrap. It took me 4 hours and some sore arms after to finish them. In the end chain cost me 50 bucks(found some on sale) so im into my chains for 200 bucks so far. And the best part is, i didnt realize that the old cross links on my back chains will work on my front chains. So i just killed 2 birds with 1 stone there as my front chains are pretty worn out. Ill try to get some fresh pictures up tonite.
 
   / DIY Tire chains #32  
You will need heavier for sure. If you are going to brew your own consider this design; I made a set for my F250 using this pattern. You don't need a welder, no cutting and splicing, chains are easier to put on because they don't slump as much as a straight bar type, and the anglular pattern runs smoother. You would get better traction with 'real' chains with v-bars, etc but I you want a cheap easy solution this might work for you.

This pattern is made from one continuous length of chain and the triangle tips are joined by clevises. Your local Princess Auto will have both go on sale periodically so you don't have much invested. If decide you don't like the tire chains, just undo them and you still have a nice long chain and a bucket full of clevises to play with :D

View attachment 244891

Nice, that pattern certainly looks simple to figure through and actually DO, but;
I figured the amount of chain needed for each "side circle" plus the length of the 12 cross chains as follows.

The tires on my little tractor stand about 46 inches tall, but the part of the sidewall where I would want the chains to link up would be about a 32 inch diameter circle, OK so that times pi gives the circumference - times 2 because there is another circle on the other side.
201.06 inches so far (WAYyyyy too precise). Lets say 16 ft 9 in ?

These are 17.5Lx24 R4s and to avoid the cross chains going down into the gaps between the lugs I figured the best way to route them would be between the lugs near the edge and over the lugs near the middle, easier to see than to write about, but going from a gap on one side to the best available gap on the other side leads to almost a 45 degree angle along/across the tire.
Anyhow the number of lugs on each side and the offset between one side and the other got me to 12 cross chains each 32 inches long.
So another 32 ft for those makes 48 ft 9 in total without including the effective length additions of the joining links.
Seems 50 ft per tire would do it, 100 ft pail/bucket, so I can price that easily enough.

I think the number of joining links is equal to the number of cross chains per tire - plus one, maybe plus 2... anyway it is a couple of dozen or so.
Anchor shackles ain't cheap, neither are the E shaped links with a drive across roll pin. Round numbers, you need so many of them that they cost about as much as the 100 ft of chain )-;

So I am back to procrastinating and re-figuring.
Against this I looked at some VERY aggressive skidder chains for ~$900 and some much thinner "mesh" pattern tire chains for ~$600, which made the price of shackles look more acceptable (-:

The "mesh" pattern ones are by OFA and are probably FINE for ice, which would be my primary rationale.
They also have a low profile, so would work out for anyone with fender clearance issues.
My tires on that tractor are spaced out all the way, so this doesn't really apply to me.
I looked at them at B&B chain/Chappell Tractor in Milford, NH.
(locals take note)
~$600 is a lot for the small number of times I have lacked traction on ice, my snow clearing conditions are fairly easy/simple without any grades or re-freezing run-off, so somewhere in the back of my mind I guess I would like to get some mud duty out of them.
Maybe not, if I had enough forethought to put chains on I would have enough forethought to keep out of a muck hole anyway.....
Yeah, I ain't going in those places REGARDLESS of chains and winches (-:
 
   / DIY Tire chains #33  
:laughing: Maybe you are over thinking this - No matter how you cut it, it takes a lot of chain to make chains :confused2:. At least with the pattern that I described if you got stuck you can just remove the shackles and you now have two 50' (ish) chains to pull yourself out:D.

Seems to me that shackles go on sale and are very affordable; what's cheaper - using 24 shackles at $1.50 or less each, or spending hours cutting and welding links? Homemade won't be the quality of purpose made ones but they must be less expensive (shipping to Canada costs almost as much as the materials to make your own).
 
   / DIY Tire chains #34  
~$600 is a lot for the small number of times I have lacked traction on ice, my snow clearing conditions are fairly easy/simple without any grades or re-freezing run-off, so somewhere in the back of my mind I guess I would like to get some mud duty out of them.
Maybe not, if I had enough forethought to put chains on I would have enough forethought to keep out of a muck hole anyway.....
Yeah, I ain't going in those places REGARDLESS of chains and winches (-:

What you really want (like me) is 'tractor bling'!:thumbsup: Only jewlery on my tractor is tire chains.:D
 

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