DIY Tire chains

[204saskman]

Now there is a sale on chain and im wondering if 3/16 chain is heavy enough. Now i kinda did a quick measure for my rear tires and i need 2x10'(20' of chain) and im guessing 20 18" cross links(30' of chain) So now i figured i needed about roughly 100' of chain but i was gonna get extra 50' as it never hurts to have extra chain around(might even get 100'). Now there is onlt about $0.60/foot from 3/16 to 1/4" chain but i was wondering if you really need the heavier chain. I could go to heavier no biggie, just wondering one weather or not its really needed. I figure i could build the rear set for under 250 with all of the cams and connectors. I currently have rear chains for my tractor but they are not wide enough and its gonna cost more for new cross links than it is to build new. I might reuse the sides but im not sure yet.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Now there is a sale on chain and im wondering if 3/16 chain is heavy enough. Now i kinda did a quick measure for my rear tires and i need 2x10'(20' of chain) and im guessing 20 18" cross links(30' of chain) So now i figured i needed about roughly 100' of chain but i was gonna get extra 50' as it never hurts to have extra chain around(might even get 100'). Now there is onlt about $0.60/foot from 3/16 to 1/4" chain but i was wondering if you really need the heavier chain. I could go to heavier no biggie, just wondering one weather or not its really needed. I figure i could build the rear set for under 250 with all of the cams and connectors. I currently have rear chains for my tractor but they are not wide enough and its gonna cost more for new cross links than it is to build new. I might reuse the sides but im not sure yet.

Why don't you just put new cross chains on your existing chains instead building a whole new set? You can increase the chain witdth that way. I'd use as minimum of 5/16" chain because they take a beating especially if you use deicing chemicals. If your tractor has R1 tires then make what they call a "duo" cross chain; two cross chains held several inches apart with repair links about 1/3 of the way across in two places.

 

[Destructo_D]

The Duo grip has what is called a "H" pattern... It is probably the best way to go.

I agree that 1/4 inch is too small... the cross chain hooks would probably pull off before the side or cross chain breaks, but either way, 1/4 inch is far too small for that size of tractor... it is fine for small garden/lawn tractors tho.

I too recomend 8mm (5/16) side chain and minimum 7mm (9/36) cross chain, but 8mm (5/16) is a better plan.... most duo grip is 8mm

 

[mwb]

You will need heavier for sure. If you are going to brew your own consider this design; I made a set for my F250 using this pattern. You don't need a welder, no cutting and splicing, chains are easier to put on because they don't slump as much as a straight bar type, and the anglular pattern runs smoother. You would get better traction with 'real' chains with v-bars, etc but I you want a cheap easy solution this might work for you.

This pattern is made from one continuous length of chain and the triangle tips are joined by clevises. Your local Princess Auto will have both go on sale periodically so you don't have much invested. If decide you don't like the tire chains, just undo them and you still have a nice long chain and a bucket full of clevises to play with

 

[Chilly807]

I agree, 5/16 minimum for any kind of strength or lifespan.

Sean

 

[204saskman]

Why don't you just put new cross chains on your existing chains instead building a whole new set? You can increase the chain witdth that way. I'd use as minimum of 5/16" chain because they take a beating especially if you use deicing chemicals. If your tractor has R1 tires then make what they call a "duo" cross chain; two cross chains held several inches apart with repair links about 1/3 of the way across in two places.

Only real reason i was gonna start from scratch is cause i have a use for the other chains. I might re use the outers of them and just replace the cross links. I called the local semi shop and at 8 bucks a cross link its cheaper to just use chain. I was gonna double up the amount of crosslinks. Im gonna call a different supplier about some chain today if i get time as i use chain around the farm for a bunch of different stuff.

 

[Keltic]

You will need heavier for sure. If you are going to brew your own consider this design; I made a set for my F250 using this pattern. You don't need a welder, no cutting and splicing, chains are easier to put on because they don't slump as much as a straight bar type, and the anglular pattern runs smoother. You would get better traction with 'real' chains with v-bars, etc but I you want a cheap easy solution this might work for you.

This pattern is made from one continuous length of chain and the triangle tips are joined by clevises. Your local Princess Auto will have both go on sale periodically so you don't have much invested. If decide you don't like the tire chains, just undo them and you still have a nice long chain and a bucket full of clevises to play with

View attachment 244891

Interesting! Did you use a normal clevis or an "add a link" sort of thing? And are the sides of the triangles of equal lenght?

 

[Short Game]

You will need heavier for sure. If you are going to brew your own consider this design; I made a set for my F250 using this pattern. You don't need a welder, no cutting and splicing, chains are easier to put on because they don't slump as much as a straight bar type, and the anglular pattern runs smoother. You would get better traction with 'real' chains with v-bars, etc but I you want a cheap easy solution this might work for you.

This pattern is made from one continuous length of chain and the triangle tips are joined by clevises. Your local Princess Auto will have both go on sale periodically so you don't have much invested. If decide you don't like the tire chains, just undo them and you still have a nice long chain and a bucket full of clevises to play with

View attachment 244891

I'd like to know what exactly these clevises look like, and the sizes of everything involved. This seems so simple and I like that. Can we get some pictures of them?

 

[mwb]

Just a normal galvanized clevis; you can also use lap link chain splicer (you crush or hammer shut). I made the triangles to fit the sidewall overlap that I wanted. Took me a couple of tries to get the combination I wanted - after that just count links, clevis, count the links, clevis... the length over the tire is longer than the triangle base (sidewall length) - my drawing is not to scale. My guess is that the triangle base I used (for my 16" tires) used four links on the sidewall (with the trianglar pattern this would be approximately equivalent to a 2-link cross bar). The cross-over length would have been maybe ten links. I don't have them a work to count them but your tire size will be different anyway.

Nice thing is that you can experiment with any chain you have - once you have your pattern 'fingered' out - make your shopping list. Heck, you could even build these using 1/2 inch bolts - cheaper?

edit: Sorry, not a clevis, a shackle like this 5/16" High Tensile Galvanized Shackle | Princess Auto

 

[Short Game]

I was searching and finding those double ended chain clevises in the $7 to $10 range. A bit much. Changing the search to "shackles," I've already found 5/16" shackles for $1 to $2.

Do you wire down each screw pin?

 

[Short Game]

I don't know yet how much chain or how many links would be required, but I got this from Ace Hardware:

Imperial 24451 Lap Link 5/16"X1-1/2"

Campbell Chain/Coopertools 0140523 Proof Coil Chain 92',5/16"

 

[mwb]

I did not wire them, just tighten with a wrench. Locktite might help if you are concerned. Also, check out "lap links". A little more permanent although I am not sure if they are as strong. If you are using 5/16 chain try using 3/8 lap links...?

 

[Short Game]

I've never had a lap link fail on a straight pull so I think they would do nicely. If anyone wanted to make them permanent, they would be a snap to braze.

 

[mwb]

Agreed!

BTW, sorry for missing your latest post when I posted (above). My internet was messed up and I did not see your latest post for some reason. Probably that "you recently joined TBN, please review your tractor" email that took out the internet.:laughing:

I have made chains by brazing before; with lap links I would think a button of weld from a stick or wire feed might be better? (if necessary at all)

 

[Short Game]

I just got my second notice to review my tractor. I don't know why I balk at it, I just do.

 

[harleyboy]

I have made chains and used regular chain on the side and #50 roller for the cross chain. I just ask farmer friend and he had lots of old chain for free.
I just welded it and it bit's very good
HB

 

[oldboyscout]

MWB that's a brilliant idea for chains. I've been avoiding cutting up my old tractor chains in case I ever want a set that big again, so I think I'm going to use your idea.
around here those lap links are called "cold shuts"

 

[kco]

MWB that's a brilliant idea for chains. I've been avoiding cutting up my old tractor chains in case I ever want a set that big again, so I think I'm going to use your idea.
around here those lap links are called "cold shuts"

I think lap links and cold shuts are two different things as shown in the attached pictures.

 

[oldboyscout]

my bad. must be using the term generically ; )

 

[Short Game]

I just measured my rear tires and computed the chain and links to make a set with 22 cross chains on each tire (which is about two per foot), figuring slightly long for safety. If I didn't screw up the figures, with the 5/16" chain and lap link prices from that Ace Hardware site I linked above, it comes to just under $200.

I'm guessing I can modify some small truck chains to do the fronts. I feel the fronts are necessary for good steering.