Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX

   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #301  
Appreciate a report back after you change from the Kubota SUDT/SUDT2 hyd fluid as to noticeable change in performance. Also what is the cost of a qt of the engine oil that you are changing to?

It works out to about $6.00 per quart....
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #302  
Nightforce--I do not have a BX so am not specifically aware of that series but many Kubota owners use gear oil in the front axle. You can use either gear oil or trans fluid and I use gear oil because I think I get better protection during hard use. Just my two cents here.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #303  
Nightforce--I do not have a BX so am not specifically aware of that series but many Kubota owners use gear oil in the front axle. You can use either gear oil or trans fluid and I use gear oil because I think I get better protection during hard use. Just my two cents here.

Great information, thank you!
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX
  • Thread Starter
#304  
OPINION.jpg
Going around today on Facebook.

Also going around today on facebook.opinion 3.png
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #305  
Nightforce--I do not have a BX so am not specifically aware of that series but many Kubota owners use gear oil in the front axle. You can use either gear oil or trans fluid and I use gear oil because I think I get better protection during hard use. Just my two cents here.

I always run gear oil in my front axle on my Kubotas. My dealer strongly recommended it 5 or 6 years ago, when I bought my first unit. I do prefer the synthetic or semi-synthetic 75w-90 as it flows a bit nicer in the dead of winter. While not proven by any science I know of, it is generally thought that the gear lube stays inside the seals a bit better as well.

SUTD-2 pours just about like water. LOVE it in the trans. Not so sure in the front axle. Just me.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #306  
While we're on synthetic and non synthetic, let me mention something non related but it's what shifted me to synthetic about 15 years ago. I had a Brillion seeder with needle bearings in the axles and they were growling so I took things apart for a look. What a mess with bearings needing immediate replacement. Trouble was, I had 30 acres to seed and needed the seeder before the parts would come in.

I cleaned the bearings up and decided to regrease with Mobil One grease just because I had it and I was desperate. Anyway, I was shocked that the growling disappeared and the bearings began to roll again. That should not had happened and I'm convinced the synthetic grease had everything to do with it.

So now I use synthetic oil in everything I can and while I don't use Mobil One grease on a regular basis I do use it for special projects where I need the grease to do Herculean work.

Just my two cents here on what worked for me. :)
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #307  
While we're on synthetic and non synthetic, let me mention something non related but it's what shifted me to synthetic about 15 years ago. I had a Brillion seeder with needle bearings in the axles and they were growling so I took things apart for a look. What a mess with bearings needing immediate replacement. Trouble was, I had 30 acres to seed and needed the seeder before the parts would come in.

I cleaned the bearings up and decided to regrease with Mobil One grease just because I had it and I was desperate. Anyway, I was shocked that the growling disappeared and the bearings began to roll again. That should not had happened and I'm convinced the synthetic grease had everything to do with it.

So now I use synthetic oil in everything I can and while I don't use Mobil One grease on a regular basis I do use it for special projects where I need the grease to do Herculean work.

Just my two cents here on what worked for me. :)

okay my two cents... yes synthetic is better and you get what you pay for. More frequent oil changes with 'real' oil will, for the most part, accomplish the same thing but it breaks down faster and can't protect as well. The fact that you cleaned the bearings was probably the biggest reason you were whistling. I too am a big fan of synthetic but it is pretty much a break even if you change as prescribed. But when you don't... the synthetic wins. IMO. That said, I think higher performance engines benefit more from synthetics.
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX
  • Thread Starter
#308  
okay my two cents... yes synthetic is better and you get what you pay for. More frequent oil changes with 'real' oil will, for the most part, accomplish the same thing but it breaks down faster and can't protect as well. The fact that you cleaned the bearings was probably the biggest reason you were whistling. I too am a big fan of synthetic but it is pretty much a break even if you change as prescribed. But when you don't... the synthetic wins. IMO. That said, I think higher performance engines benefit more from synthetics.

I mostly agree with this. My added words are that: Most high grade regular oil will perform just as well for the 98% of us AVERAGE TO BELOW AVERAGE users that don't do EXTREME USAGE with our machines whether they be cars, trucks or tractors and change the lubricants on the recommended schedule. I think the average high quality lubricants will ensure, in regards to lubrication, that my machine will out live me, again with regular scheduled changes.
Growing up some people inserted Motor Honey in their auto engines and then told the incredible stories of how their new car lasted as long without extra service as those of us that didn't use Motor Honey (well, yes, I did use some a couple of times with no measureable difference in performance or length of time till I had to add more oil to my oil burning 1935 Dodge). The non users laughed at the users and the users swore by their usage and continued the stories on until it became family tradition to use addatives in their oil.
I used to change my auto oil at 3000 miles. After years and years of sticking to this schedule I have finally creeped up to 4500 to 5000 miles but start sweating after 3000 miles. Owners manual now says 7500 but i'll probably die before I can creep up to that many miles between changes. So, synthetic or regular high quality oil, I'm changing at 5000 miles so synthetic or high quality, I believe will make no difference in my auto lubrication for my life or the life of the auto in my hands. I trade autos/trucks more often than tractors.:D
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #309  
I always run gear oil in my front axle on my Kubotas. My dealer strongly recommended it 5 or 6 years ago, when I bought my first unit. I do prefer the synthetic or semi-synthetic 75w-90 as it flows a bit nicer in the dead of winter. While not proven by any science I know of, it is generally thought that the gear lube stays inside the seals a bit better as well.

SUTD-2 pours just about like water. LOVE it in the trans. Not so sure in the front axle. Just me.

That's interesting and great to hear!

I have 6 quarts of Red Line 75w 90 synthetic gear oil in my garage and now I have a use for it! :thumbsup:
 
   / Do your own Fluids and Filters on a BX #310  
I was in a Deere dealer today and happened to see a quart of JD synthetic gear oil. Just for chuckles I asked how much a 5 gallon pail would cost. He took a while and we each guessed while he looked it up. He said $200 and I said no way...maybe $170 max. Guess what? A five gallon pail of synthetic gear oil was $300. Ouch.
 

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