dongfeng tractor with y385t wont start help

[reelnative]

yea it seemd to run right at 90 when its cranked up to 1200 or more rpms but when you bring it back down to 800 900 it wants to run about 95c it never goes into the red 100c im thinking that its still cutting rings and sleeve so it might want to run a little hotter then normal for a little bit until its broke in I just turned the 1hr mark so far and nothing has blown out the side of the block yet or no sudden lock-ups hahaha so thats all good the light smoke is all but gone now and it is running more quiet now, its about 95deg out now and about 110 in my barn so im only running it in 10 to 15min spirts at many diff rpms, bob do you think its running on the hotter side at low rpms cause of the break in

 

[Bob Rooks]

Yes, but the cooling system should compensate for that small difference. What I'm more concerned about is high oil temperature not being dissipated.
Have you checked the radiator cooling fins, don't remember. Are they clear? Fan belt not slipping?

 

[SPIKER]

Cooling is the biggest issue on these little Jinma tractors but do be aware what Bob stated.

Check you belts and hoses, check for clogged radiator (debris from previous owner brush hogging high hay can clog the fins pretty fast.)

The other part is the Battery in front of the radiator is a big problem it blocks 30% of the radiator cooling capacity. The new ones are a bit different design so not as much of an issue if your battery is in front close to radiator then.. Affordable have a re-designed battery mount that moves the battery down and out away if not mistaken. My 2002 has factory battery and factory location been going for 11 years with out much of issue other than ME leaving key on... I keep a trickle charger on it in winter but none in summer and always starts right up. (I charged the battery with acid from it's dry state as it came imported from china.) I did however use 2 bottles of the Battery Saver Chemical stuff which used to be available from HF and Napa.

On your tank if you repaint be sure to add good grounding strap on sender to keep gauge working correctly.

Mark

 

[reelnative]

haha thats funny guys I think were all on the same page, when i went out last to mess with the tractor i looked at the fins to make sure they were clean, and also there is a pre guard that slides in front of the rad fins, its an obstruction in it self so i took it out and then i looked at my big *** everstart deep cycle marine battery that was up against the rad and was about half the size of the rad i moved it forward about an inch or so and then started up the tractor, all of that did help i put my hand against the front of the rad when it was running and it did have good draw thru while running, it is wicked hot here in sw fla today its not fit for man or beast outside, you can only do about an hr outside before you are drenched with sweat and feeling dizzy and thats in the shade, in the sun maby 15min

 

[reelnative]

i went back out and messed with it some more it will hold at 85 to 90c at about 1800 rps and lower around 12 1400rpms but if you bring it up to 2200 it will stay at 90c or maby even 88c but when you drop it back down to 1000 it wants to climb and not catch itself, it went right up to 100c after putting it down to 100rpms for about 3min and i shut it down, maby im going to have to ck the inside of the rad I did pull the cap earlyer and it was getting flow but maby just not enough, moving the batt forward and removing that front screen seems to help a bit tho

 

[reelnative]

after i ate dinner i started thinking, i put my shop light up to the rad and could see light thru it so i was thinking it was clean but after i removed that front screen and moved the batt forward, when i started the tractor and was standing beside it a couple of things hit me in the face i didnt think anything of it, but that was crap that was stuck in the rad, and the extra pull from the screen and batt being away from the front of the rad made some of it break away so im guessing theres more in that rad, from what ive pulled off of this site the tractor should be running at 80 to 85c not 90c even tho 90c is in the green on the gauge, also do you guys think it being 97 outside today were i live and also that i was in a metal barn that was prob around 120f in there would make much of a diff on if it ran hotter then it normaly should or should it of over came the 120 deg temp that it was running in and still ran around 80c

 

[quicksandfarmer]

Congratulations on getting it going, I've been following your tale and rooting for you. When you took that diversion into futzing around with the torque on the connecting rod bolts I was getting impatient for you!

My Jinma has the 80C thermostat, and if the temperature goes above 80 I stop what I'm doing and check the radiator for blockage and the fan belt for slipping. The radiator gets blocked by chaff pretty often when I'm mowing. It holds 80 pretty consistently if everything is OK with the cooling system. As Spiker noted, the head gasket is the weakest part of these engines and you really don't want to let them overheat.

 

[reelnative]

thanks quicksand yea those peski rod bolts had me pulling my hair out for a while, we are still waiting to hear back from the factory in china about that, hahahha a little late tho, yea i never have run it for more then 15min at any given time so far, and when ever it started to climb in temp I would shut it down, it never spit out any fluid from the over fill or sounded weard, the last thing i want to do is dive back into the eng after just putting it back together, im going to take the batt out tomorrow and clean the heck out of the rad and also get some of that rad flush and run that thru too, and if the temp still wants to climb ill pull the thermostat and replace it, i dont know what the PO did to this thing so i have to fig the worse, I do know he overheated it and maby when he did that he blew out all the water in the rad and just let it sit out in the farm field dry for 4yrs, so tomorrow im going to start at the front and work my way back hahahah

 

[reelnative]

well i sprayed out my rad today, it was clean to start but i had the hose out so i said what the **** maby some of that invisable stuff everyone is talking about was stuck up there so i let her rip, and nada i could see my fan and the eng thru the rad before and after i did it, then i pulled the lower rad hose and dumped it and some funki stuff came out of there, so i flushed it till the water ran clear, I also opened the cocks on the eng and flushed out what was in the eng also, closed it all up and pulled my thermostat and it was stuck, and it was a 72c unit so i took it to the grinder and ground off the taps that hold the spring and plunger and took them out of the picture and reinstalled the thermostat body, now its working like it is open, but still giving the restriction that they want in the line, fired up the tractor and is ran at 80 to 82c and would hold that, work it up to 2400 and it would stay about 80 to 82c then when you slowed it down to an idle of 1000 it would rise up to about 85c and hold there, it was 97 deg out again today and in the barn were the tractor was running its about 115 deg so i guess the numbers are not to bad, but now i have a new problem that a reared its ugly head, after running for about 10min the throttle starts to feel mushy or slow to respond then it starts loosing power and will stall like Im having a lack of fuel, i wait 1 min and restart and off i go, I thought that it had to be fuel restriction so i changed out my fuel line from the tank to the ip and ckd the valve at the bottom of the tank, and cleaned the filter in the banjo bolt at the ip pump, and changed out the fuel return line on top of the injectors to a new one, and when i opened the ip pump oil ck hole to see how the level of oil was in the ip pump about 2 to 3 oz of really nasty looking brown stuff came out, it didnt smell bad and felt like slick oil, now i just filled that to the ck mark 2 days or 2hrs of run time ago, now theres more oil in it then i put or it looked that way, is there somthing going wrong in the ip pump that is making it feel like im loosing fuel pressure and making it stall, or seeing that the tractor sat for 4yrs could that of just been more nasty crap that is comming loose from inside of the ip pump, i cleaned it out and added new oil before the first start-up, well i drained it to the fill level and am going to go try it again tomorrow, any imput would be great guys

 

[quicksandfarmer]

It sounds like you're working through things one at a time and getting there. On the fuel pump, two thoughts: one is that a common problem is a seal fails and fuel mixes with the lubricating oil in the pump. The other is that Chinese tractors arrive in the US with "transport oil" in all of the gearboxes. Nobody really knows what transport oil is, other than it isn't a lubricant. Before running your tractor you're supposed to drain out the transport oil, flush with kerosene, and then fill with the proper lubricant. Could be that was never done.