Dump Trailer

   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#51  
I picked up the pump. It wasn't exactly what I was expecting, but it will do.

The bad news is that it's a manual valve. I was originally planning to just run wire up to the seat for a switch that runs an electric servo valve. Now I'll have to mount the pump where I can get to it to run the valve.

The good news is that the way it's set up it's double acting. It will run the cylinder up and down.

I need some help on specs for the pump. It's a Monarch Dyna Jack M310. I've looked it up and found all kinds of dimension specs and parts diagrams, but I can't find anywhere that lists pressure and flow specs. for this pump. Does anyone have these pressure and flow specs.?
 
   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#52  
I've got a question for those who know about hydraulic connections...

The threads on the hoses are smaller than the threads on the cylinder. I'm going to need a reducer. The question is about making the connection. Is it a good idea to use teflon tape on hydraulic systems. Is there some other compound that is better for sealing connections.
 
   / Dump Trailer #53  
You shouldn't need any sealant for a hydraulic fitting. Its a compression fitting.
 
   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#54  
2310 guy said:
You shouldn't need any sealant for a hydraulic fitting. Its a compression fitting.
Thanks.

The compression fittings on the pump worked well. What I'm most interested in are the reducers that I had to put on the cylinder. I had to use 3/8" X 1/4" reducers. Right now I just have the fittings in without any kind of thread seal.
 
   / Dump Trailer #55  
Ah I think I get it. You're reducing it at the cylinder. You could use teflon tape but I personally like the pipe dope stuff
tefpaste.jpg
 
   / Dump Trailer #56  
I am kind of curious about the reducer you used at the cylinder. Did you use a regular pipe fitting going into the cylinder or did you buy a hydraulic fitting that went from pipe thread to a hydraulic coupler. I have read in other threads and have a tendency to agree with them that regular pipe fittings are not designed for hydraulic pressures. You can use teflon tape on the pipe fittings at your cylinder if you want to.
 
   / Dump Trailer #57  
Model M-310 Dyna-Jack®
SPECIFICATIONS

Performance Specifications
Operating Pressure (psi) 500 to 4000
Flow (GPM) 0.2 to 4.5
Power (HP)
Reservoir Capacity (gallons) 0.3 to 5.2

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Physical Characteristics
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Stages 1-Stage
Power Source Electric
Cooling Method None
Features Temperature Gauge (optional feature); SightLevel (optional feature); 12V to 72V Motor
Weight (lbs)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Notes
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
4-way manually operated valve with cam actuated motor start switch
Available from:
Monarch Hydraulics, Inc. Phone: (616) 458-1306


I got these off of a web site for engineers if you need to verify the data you coupld call or email monarch I would imagine.
 
   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#58  
gemini5362 said:
I am kind of curious about the reducer you used at the cylinder. Did you use a regular pipe fitting going into the cylinder or did you buy a hydraulic fitting that went from pipe thread to a hydraulic coupler. I have read in other threads and have a tendency to agree with them that regular pipe fittings are not designed for hydraulic pressures. You can use teflon tape on the pipe fittings at your cylinder if you want to.

I did just buy a regular pipe fitting. Is this going to give me problems?
 
   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#59  
Thanks, gemini5362!!

That helps a lot!

By the looks of those specs I got a better deal than I thought... 4000 PSI or 4.5 GPM. I know it's adjustable, but I haven't looked hard enough to find the adjustment.
 
   / Dump Trailer
  • Thread Starter
#60  
I'm throwing another picture in here of my progress. I've got the subframe pretty well started.

I think the bed is growing as I build the rest of the trailer. After I got the wheels all mounted up I got a better picture of what it's going to look like. If the wheels are 3 feet from outside to outside, and I allow 6" behind the wheels for the dump, that puts them dead center in the trailer. I think I'm going to build the bed 5' long.

Another thing I'm realizing as I look at this picture is I may have to get creative in the placement of the ram. The pulleys at the top of the axle gearboxes are going to get in the way. I guess I could also just remove the pulleys. It would be nice to save the option of using them later, but if I can't build the dump with them in place, they'll have to go.
 

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