Exaust Smoke, Stalling and Radiator Fluid Leaking

[Red55]

The FarmPro exhaust elbow should have a drain hole on the underside. Sounds like yours is obstructed.

//greg//

That's another somewhat broad brush declaration

Just to quote you!

 

[greg_g]

That's another somewhat broad brush declaration

Just to quote you!

No. A broadbrush statement applies a single premise to multiple objects. Tommy's post would lead everyone believe that no Y385s ever had such a drain. I on the other hand, was referring to one specific tractor. But perhaps you'd like it better stated this way;

MrFarmall's FarmPro 2425 exhaust elbow MAY have a drain hole on the underside. Those WITH drain holes - have known to become blocked.

//greg//

 

[biggerten]

Following Bob Rook's advice, I put a coolant filter in my Jinma 354.

Coolant Filter Mod

 

[Affordable]

Farmpro Tractors came out in 2003, and none of them had a drain hole, other than the 2-cylinder TY290 model, it's pointless to argue the issue,I keep both the old style and the new style exhaust 90's and have never seen one with the hole. Just a correction //greg// I started in 2002 selling Jinmas,yours "may" have had a hole I'm not doubting you because I never saw it.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[mffarmall]

Um, most folks have a flapper on the exhaust stack,

And if the truth be known, WD-40 is a lot less volatile than atomized diesel. Why?

I did have a flapper that was two big. Put a soup can to take the difference in size. One morning it flew off and hit me in the head. I got it with the front loader. Smashed it good. Just have not gotten around to getting the right one.

I love WD-40 wipe it on any items that I'm selling. Gives a good shine.

 

[mffarmall]

The FarmPro exhaust elbow should have a drain hole on the underside.
//greg//

If it doesn't then can I drill one in or am I back to a flapper?

 

[greg_g]

I'm pretty sure the drain holes are cast in. I'd be afraid to drill in that stuff, it's pretty brittle. I'd personally go the flapper route. But don't you already have the (factory) side deflecting exhaust tip? They did a decent job of keeping most of the rain out of mine. The rare exception was when the tractor happened to be parked where the opening was facing one of those occasional sideways rainstorms.

//greg//

 

[Rich Waugh]

It is plenty safe and easy to drill a hole in a casting, if you use the proper bit and don't push too hard. Cast iron actually drills easier than mild steel in most cases. Use a bit with a standard grind, rather than the split-point bits that everyone seems to favor these days. If you have to drill a pilot hole, make certain that the diameter of your pilot hole is the size of the point web on the larger drill, and not bigger. Too large a pilot hole will cause snagging and chipping. If you're going to use lube, I suggest dry graphite rather than oil, but water is usually the lube of choice for drilling cast iron.

You only need a small hole, so you should be fine drilling it.

Rich

 

[Diamondpilot]

If it doesn't then can I drill one in or am I back to a flapper?

Here is a idea, put it under a roof. You will be money a head. Not only are you allowing the tractor to sit in the muck but its getting water in the tranny, engine, and hydro system. The tranny and hydro system are know to leak over time.

Really get it in out of the weather. You will be glad you did down the road. Even a simple lean to will save you lots of grief.

Chris

 

[Flex4]

Well gentlemen I have been doing some maintenance on my Jimna 284 and she sounds a whole lot better, I think she thanking me for taking care of her since she's been slightly neglected. The engine oil was thick and black and the radiator fluid was rust brown, discussting. She's now parked under a carport that I made and is out of the weather, the only thing I have to do is put down a gravel or concrete floor, whichever I will be able to afford at the moment. I am changing out the fuel filter today and I hope it will help on the responsiveness of the acceleration, which is somewhat poor. It appears that I still have some learning to do with this tractor, but maybe you guys can give me some pointers.

When operating your tractors (Jinma 284) do you set your idle speed with the hand accelerator before you use the foot accelerator? If I pull my hand accelerator all the way down is the engine supposed to quit or stall? I have noticed that I have to really get my rpms up to operate my loader, granted before I changed the oil my oil pressure was below 2.0. My tach has a green zone marking on it, is that supposed to be the red zone area that is normally seen on other tachs. When i'm in high gear, 1st speed, even taking aturn or going up a hill will cause or almost cause a stall. Any advice is highly appreciated.

Today I will also change out the radiator cap to a 7 psi cap instead of the original. BTW I discovered the problem with my fuel guage and it was a disconnected wire due to the plastic connecter being completely broken off.

Thank you again gentlemen for everything, this is a great site for newbies like me, i'm always picking up some new tips or tricks people have discovered.

Peter