Exaust Smoke, Stalling and Radiator Fluid Leaking

[Flex4]

Oh by the way, finding that "Fleet Charge" for the radiator was almost impossible until I looked where I should have looked from the begining, "Tractor Supply." ;>)

Peter

 

[Red55]

Pete your not alone, I experience the same thing and I believe it is the crappy loader valve that came with my chinese loader. Something that I plan on fixing when I scrape together the $600 for the ranchhand valve upgrade kit

The green zone for tach is for the proper rpm speed when using an implement

 

[greg_g]

• responsiveness of the acceleration, which is somewhat poor.
• When operating your tractors (Jinma 284) do you set your idle speed with the hand accelerator before you use the foot accelerator?
• If I pull my hand accelerator all the way down is the engine supposed to quit or stall?
• I have noticed that I have to really get my rpms up to operate my loader, granted before I changed the oil my oil pressure was below 2.0.
• Today I will also change out the radiator cap to a 7 psi cap instead of the original.

1. If this is your first diesel tractor, don't expect it to respond like a highway vehicle. You're only talking 24 horsepower tasked with operating a 2800 pound machine. It's a low speed workhorse, H2 and H3 are travel gears, and H3 really not much good other than downhill with the wind. Don't expect to get any work at all done above H1.
2. I use the hand throttle almost exclusively, even when doing loader work. Trying to keep a steady rpm on rough ground with the foot throttle is a losing proposition. When starting a cold tractor, set the hand lever for about 50% throttle.
3. Minimum hand throttle should take you down only to idle speed, which on your tractor I think may be around 900 rpm or less. To stop the engine, you pull the kill knob. I think it's under the steering wheel to the right. When working the tractor, I set the hand throttle to the green mark that Red mentioned. If/when the engine bogs down under load, it's then a simple matter of mashing down on the foot pedal to compensate.
4. Your oil pressure gauge has nothing to do with the hydraulics, it's strictly an engine monitor. That 0.2MPa you're observing converts to ~29 psi, by the way. It's hydraulic fluid that operates the front loader, the rear lift, and the steering. Yours may be thick and dirty, it may be the wrong fluid altogether (AW32 is typically recommended). Or the suction screen may be partially obstructed. Both the fluid and the screen are in the housing onto which the operator seat is bolted. The fill/vent and dipstick is behind the seat
5. 7psi is good. But - unless the seller put an incorrect cap on your machine - be advised that yours came from the factory even a lower pressure cap than that. OE caps marked with a 0.3 (bar) stamp are actually ~4.4psi.

//greg//

 

[Flex4]

Thanks Red55, the only problem is that I did replace that valve with an aftermarket valve and it was replaced by a local tractor dealer/repair center. Thank you for the information ref. the green zone. I'm wondering why it wants to stall when I'm in high gear, 1st gear and it wants to stall on a small incline or making a turn. I'm wondering if due to its weight, that I should not be in a high gear driving up any incline and keep it in a low gear, low speed. It seems odd since I have used other tractors such as my neighbor's Case and a Massey with hydrostatic trans and I never had any issues driving the same inclines in 1st gear, high speed. Maybe it's just the tractor, and I have allot of adjusting to do.

Peter

 

[Flex4]

Thanks Greg_G, that's some great information, ha, like I said I have allot of learning and adjusting to do, to get comfortable with my tractor. Does your tractor smoke any during operation, I know it will definately smoke when first started and cold, but as it warms up I have a little bit of smoke, when it's warm, and I don't see any smoke or very little as I increase the rpms? I apologize for the 5 million questions, :>)

Peter

 

[Flex4]

Hey Gregg, how can I adjust my throttle or idle speed, because my minimum throttle level stops/stalls my engine?

 

[greg_g]

Off road diesel emission requirements lag behind on-road. So some exhaust smoke is still normal. Expect to see white when starting a cold engine. That's condensation in the exhaust path cooking off. After a few seconds expect it to turn white-grey to grey-white to grey as the fuel mixture evens out. How long that takes is a function of how cold the engine was to start with. It should only be white for a matter of seconds, shades of grey while the engine is warming up, then completely clear at temperature. When under load, a temporary spurt of black smoke is also normal as the governor compensates for a suddenly increased load. That too should only last for a matter of seconds.

Obtaining idle RPMs is a mechanical adjustment of the throttle linkage. Follow the linkage down to where a lever sticks out of the governor. Somewhere in that area should be a threaded adjustment to hold that lever in a position consistent with the desired idle revs.

//greg//

 

[nuffer460]

I have been reading this thread. If the past owner did little or no PM Work on this tractor. Is it possible that the oil has never been changed or is even low in the Injection pump/ govenor. If there isn't enough oil in the govenor section of the injection pump, could that make your engine responce sluggish. Someone with more knowledge would know. Just a thought. I'm not new to diesel tractors, but I have only had my NorTrac 254 for a couple of years. Not allot of time with these tractors.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would adjust the throttle linkage at the injector pump. My 254/284 will idle at 600 RPM's with the hand throttle all the way back.

Good point on checking or even changing the hydro fluid and also the injector pump oil. Most use AW32 in the hydros and engine oil in the injector pump but you can search that out and decide what you want to use.

As for the loader being slow remember the hydro pump is ran off the engine. RPM's of the engine effect the hydro flow and pressure.

My Tach has a green line and a red line. Red line is just that, MAX RPM or RED LINE. The green line is the proper engine RPM to achieve PTO RPM. You can chose 540 or 1000 RPM's at the rear so by setting you engine to the green line you are now achieving the desired RPM's.

Change you air filter and Fuel filter and this may make the engine more responsive.

Here are the filters I use on mine.

Air= Purulator A42019
Oil= Fram PH3950
Fuel= Fram P6503


Chris

 

[Flex4]

Thank you gentlemen for the advice, FYI I have changed the engine oil and it was filthy, but I have not changed out the hydro oil and I have not checked the injector pump. I read in my manual which is not very clear and the photos were missing as to where I check and fill the injector pump.