FEL Cylinder Leaking

[dooleysm]

I believe I have a leaky cylinder on the FEL on my 30 hp Kubota (though it's not a Kubota FEL). An O-ring or something of that nature is what I'm guessing, though I have very limited knowledge of hydraulics. I'm planning to take the cylinder off the tractor and take it to someone else to repair. So my question is about how to do this. It seems pretty straight forward, unbolt the cyclinder from the loader arm and then remove the hydraulic lines, or maybe vice versa. Is this all there is to it? Will the hydraulic lines start spewing fluid all over the place or is there some kind of ball bearing in there to prevent that? Should I disconnect the hydraulic lines first or last or does it matter? Anything else I should watch out for?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

[Diamondpilot]

With the tractor shut off and the loader on the ground with the bottom of the bucket flat, exercise the FEL valve a dozen times or so. This will bleed off any pressure. Then loosen the hydro fittings slowly with a rag draped over to catch any spray, there should be none. Also have a catch pan for the fluid that will drain from the lines. Now remove the cylinder.

First thing I would do is to check that your local hydro shop has the right seals and if not order them from the FEL manufacture so your down time is limited. Remember when that cylinder is off make sure your do not need the tracotor because it will be unmovable.

I had to have one of my cylinders rebuilt and the kit was $25 and $30 for labor.

Chris

 

[BigKansas]

Another word of advice is to try and keep everything as clean as you can when you remove your cylinder(s). Make sure you cap off your lines while your tractor is sitting waiting on the repair. Last but not least, make sure you check your hydraulic fluid level when you reinstall the cylinder.

 

[TBDonnelly]

I'm in the process now of rebuilding my curl cylinders. I have them dissassembled, have the new seals ordered and I'm waiting for the new seals to be delivered to finish the reassembly. The attached pictures show the seals on the end of the rod that were leaking internally, causing the excessive leakdown.

Don

 

[dooleysm]

Thanks for the advice...off to the manufacturer's site to check on new seals.

 

[dfkrug]

I'm in the process now of rebuilding my curl cylinders. I have them dissassembled, have the new seals ordered and I'm waiting for the new seals to be delivered to finish the reassembly. The attached pictures show the seals on the end of the rod that were leaking internally, causing the excessive leakdown.

Wow, Don, are those off your KL130? I wonder what caused the seals to
splooge out tlike that..... Excessive heat? Very interesting.

 

[TBDonnelly]

Wow, Don, are those off your KL130? I wonder what caused the seals to
splooge out tlike that..... Excessive heat? Very interesting.

Yes, they are off my KL130. The jury is out on what caused the seals to deform. I had a local hydraulic shop look at them and the comment was, it looked like the seal got hot to deform the way it did. I'm wondering if the material(urethane) the seal was made of could be inferior. Could the loader arms have flexed excessively, while the curl cylinders were extended and cause the rods to torque and cause the blow by? The pressure is still the original pressure as set from the factory.

There was no exterior leaks only interior.

Don

 

[dfkrug]

I have them dissassembled, have the new seals ordered and I'm waiting for the new seals to be delivered to finish the reassembly.

Although new seals from Kioti are probably reasonably priced (unlike JD), I
would try some other seals, like maybe from Hercules/Bulldog? What are
you going to use?

 

[TBDonnelly]

Although new seals from Kioti are probably reasonably priced (unlike JD), I
would try some other seals, like maybe from Hercules/Bulldog? What are
you going to use?

I've ordered(yesterday) from an aftermarket seal supplier. When they arrive and I confirm the seals are the correct replacements I'll post all the pertinent information. The pricing was way cheaper than Kioti's price so I want to be sure the new seal is the correct one.

Don

 

[Diamondpilot]

Be careful putting the new seals in. It is very easy to nick them and they are trash. That is why I took mine to a shop and let them do it for $30. He test with air at 3000 psi so he knows they are not going to leak. Air can get by where fluid will not.

If you do decide to do it yourself google on seal replacement. You will find some good tips like heating the seals to soften them in hot hydro fluid.

Chris