FEL plow vs. rear blade for 1 mile of infrequent chipseal road snow removal

[TPerini]

I live at the end of a 1 mile private road, which is chip sealed. We get anywhere between 0-3 "problematic" storms per year, usually between 4-12" of snow at a time. This doesn't seem like a lot, but it's a nightmare every time. The road has some steep parts and camber to it, with deep ditches on the side, and folks with lesser vehicles or lesser judgement always get stuck. Sometimes very stuck. After a day, the snow turns into ice and then everyone gets stuck for days and days until it melts.

Last year was particularly bad, and I used my loader bucket to clear out the worst sections of the road where people were getting stuck. This was very time consuming, and not the right tool for the job. I had to scoop it up one bucket at a time and dump it over the edge of the road. I was unable to push it anywhere, because it all clumps together and often freezes onto the inside of the bucket. It would take me all day to do the whole road.

I'd like to set my L2501 up to be able to clear these occasional storms, and I'm torn between:

• 7' rear blade with adjustable angle. Replace metal cutting edge with polyurethane strip. Let the "tilt" link on the 3 point hitch float, either by removing the link entirely or adding hydraulic top/tilt and floating the tilt valve, so that it can follow the contour of the road. Easy to find a rear blade used for $500.
• 7' quick attach snowplow attachment for front end loader, with either hydraulic or manual angle adjustment (I do have the 3rd function hydraulics). Hard to find used around here, would likely buy new.

The rear blade is definitely a cheaper option, and I get to keep my loader bucket or grapple attached for other tasks. I'm worried though that by not having my backhoe or chipper on the rear of the tractor (both at least 1200lbs) I'll be losing a lot of ballast/traction. The rear blade also doesn't have the springs of a snow plow, to give it relief if I hit an obstacle. There aren't many potential obstacles on the road, but these things happen. I'm also a little skeptical of how well the tractor will steer when pushing snow with the loader. The front end of this tractor is not particularly heavy, and I've noticed that when I'm pushing things around with the loader (stumps, piles of dirt, big rocks) it doesn't steer very well. It seems like the loader has too much leverage on the tractor, being so far out in front of the steering axle.


Thoughts? Similar experience? Any input is appreciated.

I have a 60 or 72 in snow blower, not sure on the width but I can check. It is in very good condition. It is a 3 point rear mount. I used it on my 1710 Ford for a couple of years but we don't get that much snow where I live now so it has been sitting in the shop for the past few years. Not sure where you live but I am in the Columbus, Ohio area. I would be willing to sell it for $1200.00. It has been repainted the Ford blue and white original color. I can send pics if you are interested. Timp1954-hd1@yahoo.com.

 

[Fields_mj]

The only issue with the back blade is there's no skids to keep you from scraping your road into the woods. Maybe a modification?

A friend of mine did exactly this. He had a friend of his fabricate mounts so that he could put feet on his rear blade, and then had me weld them on. He also bought a 3pt adapter for his quick attach plate so that he could mount the blade to his FEL. He's very happy with his setup.

 

[troverman]

...Got the 2023 Tesla Model Y dual motor long range this past January and it's the best ice/snow mobile I have ever owned. On wet ice I can take off going WOT and never spin a wheel.

That makes no sense. No matter how heavy or powerful a vehicle is, it still has rubber tires on ice. They will spin. Dual motor still means there is a differential between the rear wheels and the front wheels. The wheels will slip and then the traction control system will attempt to brake the spinning wheel(s) and automatically reduce throttle.

 

[ScooterBob64]

My situation is similar I have a mile of road (Dirt) to get to the state highway. We get quite a bit of snow December thru January and I have done most of the plowing since 2010. Since you only have occasional snow you can get by with a back blade once you get the blade set you shouldn't have to look back constantly, good mirrors are a neck saver. I started with an old 9n ford but the lack of 4 wheel drive made it tough on the hills I could often only plow down hill and getting back up was a krap shoot. I traded up to a Ford 1700 with 4 wheel drive which was much better. The problems with the back blade as have been mentioned are that you driving ahead of the blade and you have to drive through what ever you are plowing packing down the snow. In heavy wet snow the tractor will try to slide down the blade pushing you into the borrow ditch. You can turn the blade around which works well but your neck and back will suffer. When I upgraded to a Kioti CK3510 with a cab it came with a skid steer style quick coupler on the FEL and I purposely ordered it with a front remote. I bought a used snow plow blade with hydraulic tilt which made my life much simpler. The plow is much faster and easier but it does have a bit of a learning curve. On the early and late season storms when the ground is not frozen it can tend to dig in a bit but so will the rear blade. You just have to go slower and pay attention. Chains will pay for themselves quickly if you have deep snow or ice. I got by with the snow plow on the front and the blade in the back until last season when we had a super wet winter and I just couldn't push the snow berms any higher. I ended up buying a snow blower so I could get the snow completely out of the road. So my new winter configuration is plow on the front blower on the back and chains all around. A cab is nice especially with the blower.

 

[Keith Rosenfeld]

I have a New Holland TC48DA (4wd 48hp) in the Blue Ridge mountains in Virginia with FEL. I have a pretty heavy 7' rear blade and both a gravel and paved road to plow. I find the FEL is not a good approach at all.

I typically first go downhill along the center of the driveway with the blade perpendicular the the tractor. (If heavy snow, I sometimes have to angle it). Depending upon the crown, that typically moves about half the center snow to each side. I sometimes have to float the blade a few inches above the driveway to make it easier on this first pass (I just keep my hand on the lift control and adjust based upon how the tractor is driving). But, I've never had a problem with less than 15" of snow.

Then, I back up the hill, angle the rear blade to one side and go downhill along one side to further push snow to the side. Then, repeat for the other side. Depending upon depth and consistency of the snow, I take a full width bite or sometime overlap my cleared center area and just adjust steering to compensate for the partial drag.

Does a nice job and gets me down to the gravel without gouging.

Depending upon snow consistency and depth, I sometimes just reverse my blade and back up to clear the snow. It can be a pain in the neck, but eliminates the tire track issue.

If it's not windy/drifting I often go out and do a first pass partway through the storm, so I don't have to deal with the entire depth at once.

 

[oldpilot]

>"For a mile of road to clear, I wouldn't even think about a rear blade. Not because it won't work, but because I'd have to go to the chiropractor after every snow plowing session. Your neck will be killing you to look backwards for that amount of time."

That was my reaction as well, and my driveway is only 1/3 mile!

 

[troverman]

I've had an L2501. Mine was HST, but great tractor. Engine performs better than its rating. Obviously its not a huge tractor, but I think a 7-foot blade is fine. I ran a 7-foot blade behind my B2920 which is considerably smaller and lighter than an L2501. I also would go with the cheaper and effective rear blade. I live in New Hampshire and we average 100+ inches of snow a year.

 

[LouNY]

>"For a mile of road to clear, I wouldn't even think about a rear blade. Not because it won't work, but because I'd have to go to the chiropractor after every snow plowing session. Your neck will be killing you to look backwards for that amount of time."

That was my reaction as well, and my driveway is only 1/3 mile!

Why look back all the time, I check my pull rear blade once in awhile but I certainly don't watch it all the time.
Unless the driveway is thawed and soft.
Also a mirror or camera works good.

 

[Paul McILwain]

I use my 6 foot bucket on the front and 6 foot snow blower on the back of my LS 5030c (58hp front wheel assist) tractor that works quite well in our Manitoba Canada winters

 

[Robin Veerman]

I’m waiting on my new inverted pull-type, and I can’t wait for the neck relief. So no experience yet, but sick and tired of looking back to blow snow….and my lane is only 300’.

7000 Series | Agro Trend

Pull-behind snowblowers are designed for convenience and operator comfort. These blowers allow forward travel while blowing. This is a very cost-effective alternative to a front-mount blower. Built from the same time proven components are our regular 3 P.T.H. blowers.

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