FEL Snow PLow size?

[dstig1]

I'm going to start fishing on CL for an old plow to modify and adapt to the SSQA on my FEL. The question I had is what size is considered about right? It is a Kubota L3130 with Ags and the rear tire width is about 66-68".

I'm thinking 6' is not wide enough. Is 6.5' OK? Is 7.5' too wide? I think 8' is probably too wide, at least for my needs and space. I could add some wings if it turns out to be too narrow, but I'd like to get close out of the chute.

Thanks!:thumbsup:

 

[RFB]

Depending on the amount and type of snow you want to push, and the surface (packed snow, dirt, concrete, ice), you will need MFWD, lots of rear ballast (weighted and filled tires and rear attached ballast), and chains on all 4. The front chains keep the yawing plow force from pushing the front end sideways.

For your HP, I think the 6.5; I pushed a 7.5 with an L5030 and that has a few more horse. With my L5740, the 7.5 is even easier.

Plowing with a tractor is about traction/weight and power since you do not move fast enough to fling it off of the blade.

 

[Thomas]

When plow at 45 degrees I have 8" of blade push be on rear tire.

 

[71bronco]

I have a 6.5 ft plow on my 3240 and wish I had a 7.5. I have a curve in my drive and the tires go in the yard because the plow isn't wide enough. I have no problems pushing snow with this plow and I'm set up about the same as you. I might try some wings for next year.

Jeff

 

[LD1]

My vote is for a 7.5.

And that is strictly on popularity, because I have never had a FEL plow.

But the 7.5' plows are REALLY common and thus they are usually pretty cheap. Drop down to the 6.5 or 7 and they always seem to be more $$$. Kinda like 5' bushhogs are cheaper than 4'ers.:confused2: You should have no trouble picking up something like a meyer ST7.5 or ST90 (older but same plow) for $200 in pretty decient condition for just the plow ONLY. It is the pump, mount, wiring, etc that make them expensive. But the PLOW only with the older classic mount (2-pins @ 24" appart) are really common.

And if you need to, you can always cut that one down to 6.5 or 7' and still be money ahead:thumbsup:

 

[RoyJackson]

My vote is for a 7.5.

And if you need to, you can always cut that one down to 6.5 or 7' and still be money ahead:thumbsup:

This is the answer!

 

[nybirdman]

I had a six ft.on a L3130,sub-frame mounted.A lot depends on the snow type,lite and dry snow a 7.5 would be o.k.,heavy wet maybe not so.FEL mounted moves you futher from the tractor and more leverage.Seven ft. would be a good compromise,also load your tires or add rear ballast.
My current is an eight ft.FEL mounted but my new tractor weighs 7000lbs.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks for the responses, guys - Great help! Based on all this, 7.5' is probably the right zone. It may be a little bit big for the Hp I have, but I am aiming to upgrade the tractor sometime in the next few years too. Our snow is a mix. Dry in the winter, but sloppy in the spring fall. So we see the full range, but we usually don't get a ton. Average 60" a winter or thereabouts. The driveway has a couple of significant curves to it, so the extra width will help there (I didn't thank about that - thanks Jeff!)

Yes I have 4wd, loaded rears, and know I will need chains on all 4 (but don't have them now).

My plan is to do the 4shorts mounting method and tuck the plow in closer to the FEL SSQA mount. My plan is to pick up a used plow and bracket (hopefully with hyd angle cylinders already) and then modify it to mount onto a SSQA mount like Paul (4shorts) did. And yes, I know I need the plow only, not the hydraulics or anything else. That appeals to the cheap SOB inside me...

 

[nybirdman]

You may not need chains;unless you get a lot of ice.With mine I could plow three feet of new/dry snow and never lacked for traction (with R1 AGs).

 

[Diamondpilot]

I have a 7' old Meyer Plow on my Jinma 284. Its a heavy tractor, 3,003# alone. Add the FEL thats 800#. With me on it, loaded rears, wheel weights, 4 front suitcase weights, and a 7' grader blade on the rear its 5,600#. I have R1's and never meet a snow I could not move. Never needed chains either but its pretty flat around here. biggest hills are only maybe a 10% grade.

Chris

 

[dstig1]

Eh Maybe I won't need chains. Time will tell... Ice would probably be the issue, plus slope.

 

[71bronco]

I leave my ballast on when plowing (about 900 lbs) and haven't felt the need for chains. Of course we haven't had much snow this year. Before this year my plowing rig was a 8n with a backblade so anything was a huge improvement.

Jeff

 

[RoyJackson]

Eh Maybe I won't need chains. Time will tell... Ice would probably be the issue, plus slope.

Nothing wrong with waiting to see if you need 'em. The only downside I see is if you decide you need them, they may not be available when you need them (especially if you have a popular sized tire such as 15x19.5 Industrials).

 

[dstig1]

Yeah Roy, that thought crossed my mind too. I'd hate to really get stuck needing them when it's too late. But for now, I just need to find a cheap plow as the project donor... I'll deal with the chain issue later.

 

[Cantoo]

Kubota L35 with loader mounted 7'-6" poly blade with 12" steel wings on each side, chains on rear only. 7' rear mounted blower for ballast. No problem moving lots of snow, take smaller bites if snow is wet.

 

[RFB]

And when you need them...like having the front end sliding sideways down an ice covered compound grade to a dropoff, with lots of weight (L5740, loaded rears, 600lbs of wheel weights, a 1100 pound foot rear blower, and a FEL mounted 7.5 foot blade) and R1's, and the only thing that stops the slide is to dig in hard with the front blade....yikes.

 

[foggy1111]

I have a "new" converted 80" Meyer plow mounted on my FEL. Just plowed with it for the first time in the past days.....as we had no plowable snow until now. We have about 6" of snow. I had plenty of traction with my R1's and I thought the plow width is just fine. My plow sits back close to the loader arms due to the way I configured the frame that mates the plow to my loader.

If I had to do allot of plowing I would definately add chains to the front wheels as I had some problems steering and the front end was being pushed to the side. I have fluid in the rears and a box blade on the back for ballast. I didnt operate very much.....so my technique likely needs honing. Maybe steering with the brakes would help too.

The tube over the cutting edge seemed to furnish enough float for the plow instead of skid shoes. I wish I had more time to work with the plow....

 

[204saskman]

I know i wanted to go bigger when i built my pusher, but im glad i only went a foot bigger than my bucket. I find with a full plow bucket of wet snow its a good push when im plowing out place. But i actually run out of traction before power some times and then others i run out of power before i run out of traction.

 

[dstig1]

Thanks for the tips. I'm looking for something in the 7-7.5' range based on what I've read. I'll probably end up with chians somewhere down the road, but maybe not to start.

 

[dstig1]

So i finally found one. $175, which I thought was fair. Appears to be a meyers st-90 though the label is worn. One break in a brace on the back. I need to weld anyways for the conversion...