Fencing Recommendations

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

In anticipation of this fence project, I got prices on a PHD with a 9" auger for installing the posts. Your thoughts on the best choice from the following for installing up to 180 posts.

Tractor Supply store brand - $449
Landpride PD15 - $725
Danuser G20/40 - $1,025

Just for the heck of it, I got a price quote from a local fence installer.

Type 3 rail 4 rail
Pr. Trtd Wood $9,000 $11,000
PVC $13,000 $16,000

Bird · Oct 31, 2001

Mike, in my opinion, the prices are ranked right in line with the quality of the implement. However, depending on your soil conditions and needs, a cheap one may be all you need. You might also want to consider Bush Hog and Rhino brands.

Bird

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

Hi Bird,

If I installed a wood fence, I will have 2000 - 3000 nails/screws to install the rails. I used a DeWalt cordless drill to install screws before, but for this many nails/screws I was thinking about getting either (1) Cordless nailer powered by a gas cartridge (2) Air nailer/screw gun.

If I choose option (2) I'd need a gasoline powered air compressor. Any recommendations?

TerryinMD · Oct 31, 2001

MikePA,

I would shy away from (1). Contractors I know only use them in areas where they have trouble getting air guns with hoses. They also need a little more maintenance.

I would use a screw gun before a air nailer. Why? Screws hold much better. They are less likely to pop out like a nail and hold a little better. Check out a deck that is screwed vs a deck that is nailed. No comparason. The downside to screwing is that it takes a little more time and is a little more expensive.

Terry

cowboydoc · Oct 31, 2001

Mike,
If you're going to go with wood I'd screw them in. Believe me they stay together alot better and if you ever have to fix a post or anything it's alot easier to fix with screws than nails. But that paslode nail gun would put them in alot faster.

As far as posthole diggers I'd spend another thousand and get yourself a post pounder. You can get that Worksaver 16 for under 2k. I know you said you had hard ground but I bet if you put them in in the spring you wouldn't have any problem at all. Difference between putting in those 180 posts in a weekend or 10 weekends. I can put in the posts at a rate of 3-5 minutes and that includes moving and positioning the tractor. ON my best day I can't put in a post faster than every 15 minutes and that's wearing myself out to the bone for the day. With the pounder there's very little work involved.

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

Would the post pounder require add'l hydraulics on my tractor?

You're right about the speed with the Paslode which is why I was considering it versus screws.

If I have to use a PHD, should concrete be used?

cowboydoc · Oct 31, 2001

No you sure wouldn't Mike. You can set it up as either open or closed. It comes from the factory open but they send the parts to make it closed which is what your regular hydraulics are on your tractor. For $1870 kencove has the worksaver 16 that Hess has. I got the hydraulic hpd-20 but you wouldn't need that one. I got it because I put in bigger posts and I wanted to be able to pound 10' posts. It comes with everything that you need. Plan on about 2 hours for setting it up. It's not hard to do at all. They only charged me a $100 to ship it so I didn't think that was bad at all.

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

Do you take the FEL off and mount it up front or is it a 3ph device?

cowboydoc · Oct 31, 2001

You can get either. The one I have is for 3ph.

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

For the 3ph version, where do the hydraulics connect?

Charlie_Iliff · Oct 31, 2001

Mike:
Terry and Cowboydoc are certainly right that screws hold better than nails. Particularly if you have to pre-drill. however, galvanized screws are not a lot better than serrated nails set by a nail gun, but take infinitely longer to put in. After the first couple of hundred, you'll really appreciate the nailer.
I have several miles of post and rail wood fence, which is a bear to maintain and is in desperate need of replacement. I recommend against wood, as have others. The main danger to our horses and ponies is getting hit by cars after they have gotten through the old wood fence. Follow Cowboydoc's recommendation - put posts in with a pounder and string wire or wire reinforced plastic tape.

Charlie Iliff

MikePA · Oct 31, 2001

Are there places that rent post drivers?

cowboydoc · Oct 31, 2001

Mike,
Around here noone would rent one because too many people get hurt on them. I'm not sure where you are at.

bgott · Nov 1, 2001

If you go with screws pick up some "Deckmate" screws at Home Depot. These screws have a Phillips/ square drive combination head that uses a special bit. They supply one bit with the five pound boxes of screws. Anytime I've used deck screws with just the Phillips head I've had major problems with cam out if I don't pre drill a pilot hole and you better forget it if you have to run the screw back out. With the Deckmate screws you can run them in and out and in again without any problems. They are more expensive than regular deck screws but well worth the ease of use. I had gotten a McFeely's catalog to order square drive screws before I found these screws, they screwed McFeely's out of a major sale!

MikePA · Nov 1, 2001

Kencove quoted me the HPD16 crank tilt for $1811.35.

From their email...

You could be around $6,000 for materials and small driver - delivered. That would be 3 rails of the 4.25" plastic rail.
http://www.kencove.com/plas.htm

It would be less effort to use electric 1.6" ribbon or Hotcote.
http://www.kencove.com/electric-horse.htm

Good deals?

Also, do you all recommend round posts or square?

TerryinMD · Nov 1, 2001

I agree with bgott about using the square head screws.

Also, I'd suggest using a 1/2" drill vs a 3/8" drill. Yes a little heavier to hold, but very effective at driving in the screws. It actually takes a little less effort because of the torque.

Terry

Anonymous Poster · Nov 1, 2001

Mike,
I first used Horseguard when I set up a new corral for our horses. I liked it so much that when I rebuilt an older corral I decided to use it again. They use stainless steel strands in the fencing as well as the other hardware. It is very visible and would be much less traumatic than single strand wire if a horse decided to go through it. We have a good charger (2 Joule) attached to the fence and the horses WILL NOT mess with the fence. I highly recommend it from my own experience.

Dave

HarveyM · Nov 1, 2001

Just thought I would pitch back in on this thread and bemoan the fact that my 10 strand high tensile wire fence came within a hair of cutting the back half of my thoroughbreds left front hoof off today. Seemed like a good idea, but when I'm done with the vet bills, we'll see how good the idea is. Be sure that the high tensile is backed up with electric, high to keep their noses out of it and low to keep their hooves out of it.

cowboydoc · Nov 1, 2001

It's only recommended that you go five maximum of six strands with horses for that very reason. With the strands spaced out horses can get their legs out with them binding up and cutting. With that many strands their legs get caught in the fence.