Fencing Recommendations

   / Fencing Recommendations #31  
Mike:
Terry and Cowboydoc are certainly right that screws hold better than nails. Particularly if you have to pre-drill. however, galvanized screws are not a lot better than serrated nails set by a nail gun, but take infinitely longer to put in. After the first couple of hundred, you'll really appreciate the nailer.
I have several miles of post and rail wood fence, which is a bear to maintain and is in desperate need of replacement. I recommend against wood, as have others. The main danger to our horses and ponies is getting hit by cars after they have gotten through the old wood fence. Follow Cowboydoc's recommendation - put posts in with a pounder and string wire or wire reinforced plastic tape.


Charlie Iliff
 
   / Fencing Recommendations
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Are there places that rent post drivers?

tractor.gif
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #33  
Mike,
Around here noone would rent one because too many people get hurt on them. I'm not sure where you are at.

18-35034-TRACTO~1.GIF
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #34  
If you go with screws pick up some "Deckmate" screws at Home Depot. These screws have a Phillips/ square drive combination head that uses a special bit. They supply one bit with the five pound boxes of screws. Anytime I've used deck screws with just the Phillips head I've had major problems with cam out if I don't pre drill a pilot hole and you better forget it if you have to run the screw back out. With the Deckmate screws you can run them in and out and in again without any problems. They are more expensive than regular deck screws but well worth the ease of use. I had gotten a McFeely's catalog to order square drive screws before I found these screws, they screwed McFeely's out of a major sale! :)
 
   / Fencing Recommendations
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Kencove quoted me the HPD16 crank tilt for $1811.35.

From their email...

You could be around $6,000 for materials and small driver - delivered. That would be 3 rails of the 4.25" plastic rail.
http://www.kencove.com/plas.htm

It would be less effort to use electric 1.6" ribbon or Hotcote.
http://www.kencove.com/electric-horse.htm

Good deals?

Also, do you all recommend round posts or square?

tractor.gif
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #36  
I agree with bgott about using the square head screws.

Also, I'd suggest using a 1/2" drill vs a 3/8" drill. Yes a little heavier to hold, but very effective at driving in the screws. It actually takes a little less effort because of the torque.

Terry
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #37  
Mike,
I first used Horseguard when I set up a new corral for our horses. I liked it so much that when I rebuilt an older corral I decided to use it again. They use stainless steel strands in the fencing as well as the other hardware. It is very visible and would be much less traumatic than single strand wire if a horse decided to go through it. We have a good charger (2 Joule) attached to the fence and the horses WILL NOT mess with the fence. I highly recommend it from my own experience.

Dave
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #38  
Just thought I would pitch back in on this thread and bemoan the fact that my 10 strand high tensile wire fence came within a hair of cutting the back half of my thoroughbreds left front hoof off today. Seemed like a good idea, but when I'm done with the vet bills, we'll see how good the idea is. Be sure that the high tensile is backed up with electric, high to keep their noses out of it and low to keep their hooves out of it.
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #39  
It's only recommended that you go five maximum of six strands with horses for that very reason. With the strands spaced out horses can get their legs out with them binding up and cutting. With that many strands their legs get caught in the fence.

18-35034-TRACTO~1.GIF
 
   / Fencing Recommendations #40  
bgott,

Your right. Square drive is the only way to go.
Philips will slip out. The square drive will not slip out except under extreme torque.

Fred
 

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