Captain Dirty
Platinum Member
A lot of these hard to reach filter locations could easily be remedied if filter manufacturers would get together and start putting hex nuts on end of filters Imho.
Is that why K & N filters cost so much?
A lot of these hard to reach filter locations could easily be remedied if filter manufacturers would get together and start putting hex nuts on end of filters Imho.
Not completely sure on filtering capabilities on k&N filters compared to OEM however I usually change filters at least annually, To me anyway it's worth the extra cost to ease my four letter word removal frustration and messes I've made. and is usually same price or cheaper than OEM. I have also noticed more aftermarket filter manufacturers have started putting hex nuts on end of filters.Is that why K & N filters cost so much?
It's not that bad. It's got a 2 pedal HST so my boot is rarely back that far.What a horrible location, accessible to damage ur heel hitting it and bad spot to remove, that's crazy what we're they thinking
Never been fond of K&N filters simply because they pass dirty air when clean. You'll never find a big truck owner running them.
Had a K&N on one of my bikes and twisted the hex end off. I do believe the oil filters are TUV certified but so are others. Far as air filters, never. That 'oiled' gauze might stop pea gravel but that is about it Only time a K&N will filter is when they are dirty. K&N claims a power increase on their air filters but that is because there is minimal filtering, if any on a new one.Certainly agree with you on K&N air filters but he's talking about K&N oil filters here.
Imo the key to using k&n air filters from occasional experience is cleaning and oiling them at least annually, apologies for the drift.Certainly agree with you on K&N air filters but he's talking about K&N oil filters here.
So you just add filter oil over the dirt? 7.3 power stroke is a great truck. Now I'm drifting like a UP snowdrift lolDirtier the better actually. I have one on my 7.3 and I watch the filter minder and ignore the filter.
One final drifting hack if folks have an oiled foam element like I do on ATVs particularly, I will continue to do it this way, that has worked for me over the years Is put the clean element in a one gallon freezer bag pour or spray filter oil in bag and move it around a bit, carefully, being cautious not to damage element. Not only is it virtually mess free but it gets sufficient oil on the entire element.Not at all. I watch the restriction and clean when applocable. Nothing more.
You have an aftermarket gauge or is it a factory indicator?Not at all. I watch the restriction and clean when applocable. Nothing more.
replaced the FoMoCo one with a Donaldson years ago. Same gage, same spring, different logo. The FoMoCo one broke off.You have an aftermarket gauge or is it a factory indicator?
Nope I disagree. If you READ the instructions with these filters it clearly recommends NOT to use the nut when installing the filter. But everyone does anyways. So now that filter is too tight and upon removal the nut breaks off or is rounded. So unless the nut is ONLY used for removal….it’s fineA lot of these hard to reach filter locations could easily be remedied if filter manufacturers would get together and start putting hex nuts on end of filters Imho.
Imo I think a lot of folks don't clean the base off so if there's some slight seepage or even leaking caused by debris on the filters base so they torque it down way to much. In fact I remedied my folks car when they visited it was leaking oil all over my driveway not only was it way over torqued but the oil change place left the o-ring from the old filter on the base.Nope I disagree. If you READ the instructions with these filters it clearly recommends NOT to use the nut when installing the filter. But everyone does anyways. So now that filter is too tight and upon removal the nut breaks off or is rounded. So unless the nut is ONLY used for removal….it’s fine![]()