Finally building a tower blind

[EddieWalker]

Congratulations on all your progress and Thanks for sharing!!!!!

I'm enjoying your pics and comments, and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished blind.

Eddie

 

[buck12]

I'm planning on working on the roof this week. My plan was to use metal roof panels but have questions about condensation. Since I plan on using a space heater inside I'm wondering if I'm going to have to worry about condensation on the inside of the roof? Any suggestions on the proper way to install the metal panels and prevent condensation or is this something I need to worry about at all? Would insulating the inside prevent this? Suggestions and tips appreciated. Thanks.

Jeremy

My experience has been to use wood under the metal. The first box stand I build I attached the metal to the rafters and condensation is a problem. One day I will redo the roof on this stand. The last stand I build and have helped a friend build three more using the same plan we used exterior siding on the top and attached the metal to the siding. The next stand I build I will likely put tar paper between the wood and metal.

 

[jk96]

Congratulations on all your progress and Thanks for sharing!!!!!

I'm enjoying your pics and comments, and I'm looking forward to seeing the finished blind.

Eddie

Thanks Eddy. I've got you to thank for finally getting the project off the ground. I've been wanting to build it for the last three years. I was re-reading some of your "over the top" thread and decided to go ahead and get it started.

I managed to sneak out for a few hours this afternoon and work on it. Didn't get as much accomplished today. My wife is starting to find better ways for me to spend my time. I did manage to get the trusses up and most of the purlins in. I think I'm going to take Bucks advise and go ahead and cover the purlins with osb and roofing felt underneath the metal to help prevent condensation. Muzzle loader season opens next Saturday so I'm hoping to at least get it closed up by this Saturday. That will at least give me a week to let things quiet down out there before the season opens. I'll get back out to finish up after the season ends on the 27th.

Jeremy

 

[Robert_in_NY]

I'm planning on working on the roof this week. My plan was to use metal roof panels but have questions about condensation. Since I plan on using a space heater inside I'm wondering if I'm going to have to worry about condensation on the inside of the roof? Any suggestions on the proper way to install the metal panels and prevent condensation or is this something I need to worry about at all? Would insulating the inside prevent this? Suggestions and tips appreciated. Thanks.

Jeremy

I just noticed this thread. Your doing a great job so far and I am looking forward to seeing the constant progress and ultimate completion. I don't like metal roofing for various reasons but one is noise. If you have a heavy rain it can get noisy inside there. If you saw my thread (I think you meant me when you referred to Eddie and Roberts threads) then you will see I went with plywood for the roof decking with asphalt shingles. I then set ceiling joists and insulated it and put OSB for the actual ceiling. Sitting inside that tower it is very quiet and comfortable. If you do use metal I would still consider putting a wood deck down then a felt paper before the metal. It will help with noise and any condensation.

One thing you will need to look at is when you turn the heat on your windows will condense and fog up. Its an issue I have been dealing with but I have found that a good ammonia based window cleaner helps with the fogging but its something you have to do each time you turn the heat on. I haven't looked for any long term solution to this problem yet. Another issue is with the one sliding window I have is that with all the condensation you get a lot of moisture in the window well that the window slides on. Well, on the very cold mornings that moisture turns to ice and has froze that window shut. Once you kick the heat on it will warm things up quickly and get rid of the that issue but it is something to be aware of. Just make sure you use plenty of insulation on all 6 sides so with your kids (and yourself as well) you don't have to worry too much about noise. Also it heats up quicker. Ava goes with me often and she likes to take stuff to play with and color so occasionally she drops things and I still have the plywood floor (haven't found any carpet remants yet). So the noise is muffled very well with the insulation.

A good staircase with hand rails is a must for the kids and a safe item for the hunter as well. Even with snow on the steps Ava and I have no problem walking up the stairs as there are handrails on both sides so she feels safe and comfortable.

Thanks for taking the time to share your project. Your kids will love going hunting with you if they can move around more, stay warm and dry and just be comfortable out there like they would in their house. I have found the greatest benifit to my tower is that Ava is able to enjoy going with me and looks forward to hunting with me every evening we went. Its been great

 

[jk96]

Hi Robert.

Yes - I was referring to your thread. I enjoyed following it. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions as well. My only thought with the metal roof was that it would be durable and easier to install than shingles. I may give shingles some thought again.

I'm hoping to get back out one more time either tomorrow or Saturday and at least get the osb on the roof and door installed so that it's closed up and will hold a little heat. Muzzle loader season runs from Dec 17th to the 27th so I'd like to be able to use it then. I'm not sure I'll have a whole lot of luck with since the deer wont have much time to get used to the tower but I enjoy getting out regardless.

I did see the 12pt buck I've been after since bow season yesterday. I'd guess he's a 160-170 class buck. He was bedded down at the entrance to the field just inside the timber about 300 yards from the tower. I got out of the truck to lock the hubs in 4wd and jumped him. I hadn't seen him since just before rifle season opened in Nov. so it's nice to see he made it past the orange army and is still in the area.

Jeremy

 

[forgeblast]

For the fogging of glass, we used just the normal, no aloe or other stuff, shaving cream.
You can put it on the glass and just rub it in and it keeps it from fogging up.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

For the fogging of glass, we used just the normal, no aloe or other stuff, shaving cream.
You can put it on the glass and just rub it in and it keeps it from fogging up.

I would think that would make a haze of its own. I will look into trying it though.

 

[forgeblast]

Try it on the bathroom mirror before a shower, or just do half a mirror as a test. Paintball masks were horrible with fogging up we used this way back when we first played.

 

[jk96]

My help couldn't make it this weekend so the roof should go on tomorrow. I do have a quick question. For the facia and soffits, what type of material should I use? I sided the blind with LP Smartside and have some cutoff strips. Any reason I couldn't rip the smartside to width and use it?

Jeremy

 

[EddieWalker]

I'm not a fan of smartside, but it's better then real wood. I like Hardi, but it's a bit more effort to work with. If you use the smartside, just be sure to paint the edges that you cut really good. If it's not sealed, it will expand when it gets wet like a sponge, and then rot on you fairly quickly.

Eddie

 

[Robert_in_NY]

If thats what you have then follow Eddies suggestion. Me personally I didn't want to worry about painting so I used pine for the facia then vinyl soffits and wrapped the pine with aluminum coil stock.

 

[jk96]

Thanks Eddie.

I would agree that Hardi would be better. I'm just being cheap and trying to save a buck. I've actually used the Hardi 4x8 sheets in the past. I'm in the pyrotechnics industry and we have strict limitations on the storage of explosives. One of the specifications is that the storage magazine has to be fire resistant. We've always used 40' shipping containers as explosive magazines since they meet the fire resistance specifications of the ATF regs as well as most other requirements with little modification. Since we can only store 10,000 lbs per location, we have over 15 containers. Several of the shipping containers have started to rust and leak in spots. We started replacing them 2 years ago with small 16'x36' buildings. I've built 3 so far using the Hardi cement siding.

Since fiber cement was not a material in the ATF explosive regulations, I had to apply for a variance to use the cement siding in place of metal. It was heavy to work with and a little more difficult as you suggested but has worked out well so far. The buildings have much more room for storage and are easier to get into and out of. They also have a pitched roof so we don't have to worry about the water pooling on the roof and rusting like the containers do.

I know I'm getting off topic, but if your interested, here's a video I made showing the heat transfer characteristics of metal over wood vs fibercement. I used this as part of the variance request to show that the fiber cement siding met the fire resistance specifications and was equal to or better than metal siding. It's a pretty generic test but was enough to get the approval. It clearly showed it was far superior as far as heat transfer.

FiberConcreteTesting.mp4 video by jk96 - Photobucket

Jeremy

 

[jk96]

I made it out yesterday and was able to get the roof on and install the door. I ended up using the Ondura panels for the roof. Probably not my first choice for durability but the price was right. My lumberyard had several sheets that were damaged (corners split, cracked, or missing). Since I needed to cut them shorter it didn't really matter to me. I was able to pick up the 6 sheets needed for $10/sheet. I'll see how these last. Even if they only last a few years I'm not out much and can redo the roof with regular shingles.

I will say that after installing them, I don't think I would use them on anything other than a blind or playhouse. I've never used them before and there seems to be a very fine line as far as getting just enough pressure when driving the nails. Not enough and the nails didn't seat well enough and just slightly too much pressure and the nail would crack the panels. I had a few spots I had to caulk after overdriving the nails.

I still need to finish trimming out the building corners, windows, facia, etc as well as insulate the inside. It's at least sealed up from the weather now. Eventually I'll add stairs but that will probably be a spring project.

Jeremy

 

[jonyyuma]

Nice building, be careful, someone will move into that one?

 

[EddieWalker]

Looks great!!!

Are you building stairs to get in to it?

Eddie

 

[buck12]

I would have to take my boots off to enter that stand. Nice work!

 

[jk96]

Thanks for the comments.

Eddy - yes I plan on building stairs eventually. If I don't get it done this winter it will be a spring project. Since I plan on hunting with my kids I'd like to get stars with railings built to make it as safe as possible.

I've only cut stingers one time and that was for the deck on our building. I had a really nice book on deck building at the time that helped a lot with the stairs and deck build. I need to dig it out again for a refresher course. Since I'm not a carpenter by trade, it usually takes me a little longer and a little more planning for projects like this. The deck and stairs turned out nice, but my wife was ready to shoot me by the time it was done. I think it probably took twice as long as it should have. lol.

Jeremy

 

[EddieWalker]

Most of the time, I just buy the stringers already cut, but for those times that I have to figure it out, I do a google search for a stair calculator. Here is one that I just found, but have never used before.

EZ Stairs Calculator

Eddie

 

[jk96]

Thanks for the link. I appreciate it. The only thing I don't like about the pre-cut stringers is that the steps are usually a bit steeper and not as deep as I'd prefer. I figure this would be important with sometimes wet and muddy boots.

Jeremy

 

[jk96]

I was able to use the blind for the first time yesterday afternoon. My youngest son came down with a fever last night so I didn't make it out today.

I only saw one small doe that was well out of range, but it was nice to be able to use it. I've got my buddy heater moved to the blind as well. I had to run it on high and was just enough to keep the chill out of the air. It should make a big difference once I get it insulated.

Here are a couple of pics I took from the blind. Had a really nice sunset yesterday.


DSC_6576 by jjk96, on Flickr


Here's a panoramic shot looking out from the blind. Three photos stitched together with photoshop.


land by jjk96, on Flickr

One more


Land5 by jjk96, on Flickr