Finally starting an addition on our shed

   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #101  
And this is probably the biggest reason I haven't bought scaffolding yet. I really want to own a bunch of it, but it's so cheap to rent it when I need it, and then I don't have to store it anywhere.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#102  
I just have renting stuff because it's a 3 hour round trip. Figure in another hour at the rental yard, if it goes fast, and you've lost half the day. Then repeat to return it. In this case, I'd probably be time ahead.

I could buy enough to wrap all the way around for another $1,000. If I thought I'd use it, I'd do that but, after this project, I don't think I'll have need for more than the 6 sets I already bought.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #103  
Makes a good deer stand...
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #104  
Looking good Duval County! Brings back memory’s of building our ranch house in southern liveoak county in the 90s.We built a lot of our own scaffolding.. We had used T111 siding and that was a mistake.. Two years ago we ripped it off and replaced with hardy. Best decision we have made. The contractor was from San Diego.. Any rain lately? put in good plots last weekend..
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#105  
Looking good Duval County! Brings back memory’s of building our ranch house in southern liveoak county in the 90s.We built a lot of our own scaffolding.. We had used T111 siding and that was a mistake.. Two years ago we ripped it off and replaced with hardy. Best decision we have made. The contractor was from San Diego.. Any rain lately? put in good plots last weekend..
What's rain? We had about 1/4" a little over a week ago, nothing since.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#106  
So I've had to work on paying projects the last couple of weeks and haven't made much progress. This afternoon is the first time I've been able to really do anything and I started getting the felt down on the roof.

The AC guys got most of the rough in completed this week, I need to finish up the shed attic space and run some wire for them to finish. I'm really hoping to have all.that done by Monday so they can get it all hooked up and tested. We did a 3.5 ton unit with a 15kw heat strip and 4" MERV 14 house filter, total is $5,950.

I got tired of moving the scaffolding so rented enough to surround the building, that's been a big help.

It's slow progress but, it's forward motion and that's the important thing. IMG_20171113_171207587.jpgIMG_20171116_162413276.jpgIMG_20171116_162420939.jpgIMG_20171116_162455508.jpgIMG_20171114_174205448.jpgIMG_20171116_172649392.jpg
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #107  
I know your struggle. Never enough time to spend on my own projects because of clients and life getting in the way. Looks like you've made a lot of progress.

I like to put a rope on the roof too. It's amazing how much safer and secure it makes me feel. Especially when working near the edge of the roof.

I didn't notice your drain lines for your AC unit. One of the things that I don't like about having them in the attic is that it's a real pain to add bleach to the drain line once a month when changing the filter. I've had quite a few jobs where the primary drain plugs up from gunk that forms and grows in the pipe, and then the secondary plugs up, and then the pan overflows and ruins the ceiling. One of my clients has three units in their attic, each uses two filters, and they had lived there five years when a a leak appeared on their ceiling. They thought it was hail damage from a storm, but it only took a minute to see that it was one of their AC units. The other two had water in their pans, but where draining enough so there wasn't more damage. Those filters where thick with dust and it's amazing that they where able to keep the house cool.

Pouring a little bleach down the drain line every month kills what's growing on the inside of the pipe.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#108  
Got some windows in yesterday. A couple were damaged beyond use, nothing is made like it used to be. I'm going to finish up the last 6" or so of OSB up top, get the last of the house wrap done on that side and get doors in today. Tomorrow I've got to get a little more scaffolding and exchange the damaged windows, then we start siding. I'm hoping that Tuesday I'll have the first couple of rows of siding up so I can poke the AC lineset through and to get the electrical for the AC run. I'd like to get them back out this week to connect it up and test run it. I'm SOOOOOOOOO looking forward to shutting these window units off for good.

Eddie, regarding the attic AC, code now requires a float switch that will shut off the unit if water accumulates in the pan. The main drain is running out the base of the S wall where my wife is putting a flower bed, I'm going to setup some soaker hose or someone off of it to distribute that water more evenly, I always hated sending condensate down the sanitary sewer, it seems like such a waste. The secondary drain is up high on the West side, where we drive in and park, so it can be seen. Technically, it should be over a window so a drip can be seen from inside, I'll probably move it over, just haven't gotten to it yet. We have a MERV 14 whole house filter in the return plenum so I'm going to have to go into the attic every 6 months to change that anyway. We've always had our AC evaporator and air handler in the attic and really haven't ever done a lot of maintenance on the drain line. If I see water in the pan, I drag an air hose up and blow some compressed air through the drain, followed by some bleach. I've only had to do it 3 times in 22 years of owning a home. I prefer the unit in the attic, it's quieter than having it in a closet plus, we really didn't have a closet to spare. We barely had enough room to run the supply and return lines downstairs.IMG_20171125_171707703.jpgIMG_20171125_160140301.jpg
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed #109  
Windows came out nice. It's starting too look like a house!!

I probably forgot, but seeing that upstairs door indicates that you are building a deck. Will you attach your ledger board before your siding? Are you going to use lag bolts or some of the newer ledger lock type of lag bolts to attach it?

I understand about putting the HVAC in the attic space. There is never enough space, and that's a good place to get it out of the way. In a lot of the houses I've worked on, it's resting right on the ceiling joists. Sometimes supported by a wall under it, other times, it's in the middle of the span and the sheetrock under it is cracking from the weight. Sometimes they are elevated so you can get a foot or two of insulation under them, but that's rare.

I change filters once a month. I never heard of being able to go six months.
 
   / Finally starting an addition on our shed
  • Thread Starter
#110  
Yes, we're putting in a deck and I am doing the ledger board before the siding. My plan is the through bolt it while I can get to both sides.

I put a piece of OSB on the ceiling joists to install the AC stuff, it's spread across 4 joists. It's not very heavy and we will put insulation in underneath it once the drywall is in.

We have 2 filters, the regular cheap filter in the returns that are mainly to catch big stuff like pet hair and the high efficiency MERV 14 at the unit. The one at the unit is a 4" cabinet filter and is for fine dust. The return grill filters get changed monthly, the cabinet filter every 6-12 months, depending on the environment. We have a lot of fine silt in the soil here so it'll need to be changed on the shorter interval. The cabinet filter media is about $40/ea, they're meant for longer run times. They are in a zig zag inside the cabinet so it creates a lot of surface area while still allowing high air flow. It's basically a high flow HEPA filter. We've put them on the AC units in every house we've had, they make a big difference in keeping the dust down in the house and keeping the evaporator coil clean so the unit can run more efficiently. They run about $300, or around $500 installed on an existing unit but, I think they save at least that much in cleaning time and unit efficiency.
 

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