Firewood processor build thread

[kiotiken]

Where did you find the tanks?

I'm guessing the belting will work fine as long as you don't have it on too steep of an incline.

At a truck place off carp Rd. They'll be one left after tomorrow if you want one for your processor build.

 

[kiotiken]

I don't see why that conveyer belt material would have any trouble moving wood as is. On our sawmill we have used smooth belting to move cut off wood and slabs for years.
Maybe try and buy both tanks, and then sell the one you don't use?

I really like the way you think! My wife, not so much. Its a really good idea though.

 

[kiotiken]

Take a look inside, the baffle should be visible and you should be able to see the holes in it.

Aaron Z

I wasn't able to see inside the tank because there's a strainer bolted in place. I talked to him about my concern and he says most baffles aren't sealed all the way around and that the corners are cut out to allow oil to pass. He didn't think it was a big deal. I was still concerned and I asked him if he knew it was 100 gallon tank. He measured it and looked it up, it's actually only 58 gallons! So, regardless of how tall the baffles are, 40 gallons will work and I may just buy another 10 or 15 gallons to top it off when it goes on sale again.

I also bought a piece of scrap plastic from him. I'll use it for the backer for my conveyor. He skinned me $20 for his obvious scrap piece, but I needed it and it's a lot cheaper than buying it new. I only need an 8" strip and I can easily cut that much out. I'll have some left over and I really like having some of that stuff kicking around, you can always find something to use if for.

So, I need to buy some steel and get busy again. I'm going to build a bracket for the tank and the top of it will be up above the top of the log trough. I'm going to add a little protection to make sure a stray log doesn't knock it, but with the bottom ports, I need some height to allow for the filter and I like having the oil as high above the pump as possible.









Plastic for the conveyor

 

[kiotiken]

The more I looked at the tank, the harder it was to believe it's only 58 gallons (which is also an odd size to build a tank). So I measured it and put the numbers in an online volume calculator. According to the calculator, the tank is actually 75 gallons. That still works a lot better than the original 100 gallons I was told, but still a little big. It means the gauge won't do me any good since it will be high and dry, but my 40 gallons of oil should be enough so the baffle isn't an issue, regardless of it's design.

I've been waiting on my last (said that before!) steel delivery so I can get the new tank on the machine and the conveyor built. I just got a call that it won't be delivered until tomorrow. I generally get the impression that I'm low on their priority list, might be time to call around a little. Anyway, I'll be building and posting pictures tomorrow.

 

[muddstopper]

If you decide to go for the smaller steel tank and it has rust in it, its an easy fix. remove the screen at the filler neck and insert a steel round bar, but dont let the bar touch the sides. Attach your positive DC (cant do this with ac)welding lead to the round bar. Take your ground lead and hook to the outside of the tank. Fill tank with water add a few spoonfuls of baking soda. Turn the amps of your welder down to 20amps and turn it on. It wont take but a few minutes and you will be able to see the water solution start bubbleing as the rust is pulled from the inside of the tank and deposited to your round rod at the filler neck. You can do this with a battery charger at lower amps, but more power the faster it works. I did this once to remove rust from inside a 1000gal hydroseeder tank. Left the welder running overnite, next day dumped the water and the inside of the tank looked almost like new metal. It might take a couple of trys to get the tank rust free, but once rust free, buy a can of gyptal paint and pour inside the tank and roll it around until you know the entire inside is coated, Drain out any excess paint, Let cure a couple of days before filling with oil. You tank will be rust free and the gyptal will keep it that way.

 

[kiotiken]

If you decide to go for the smaller steel tank and it has rust in it, its an easy fix. remove the screen at the filler neck and insert a steel round bar, but dont let the bar touch the sides. Attach your positive DC (cant do this with ac)welding lead to the round bar. Take your ground lead and hook to the outside of the tank. Fill tank with water add a few spoonfuls of baking soda. Turn the amps of your welder down to 20amps and turn it on. It wont take but a few minutes and you will be able to see the water solution start bubbleing as the rust is pulled from the inside of the tank and deposited to your round rod at the filler neck. You can do this with a battery charger at lower amps, but more power the faster it works. I did this once to remove rust from inside a 1000gal hydroseeder tank. Left the welder running overnite, next day dumped the water and the inside of the tank looked almost like new metal. It might take a couple of trys to get the tank rust free, but once rust free, buy a can of gyptal paint and pour inside the tank and roll it around until you know the entire inside is coated, Drain out any excess paint, Let cure a couple of days before filling with oil. You tank will be rust free and the gyptal will keep it that way.

Wow, very cool. Thanks, great trick to know for the future, but I went with the aluminium tank this time. It had about 20 gallons of oil in it that they dumped before I took it, so everything should be nice and clean in there.

 

[kiotiken]

Well, here we go again.


I started with the conveyor. Not sure why, just felt like building it. I started with the original log sled that was discarded after my first design failed miserably. It was the right length, so why waste the steel.


I started hacking up some steel and designing on the go. I had a general idea of how it would work and ordered some steel based on that, then winged it.


The end roller will be a tensioner. You can see a spring in this picture. There will be two larger springs when I'm done, this one was just to lay it out.


Once I got done assuring myself that my rough design was going to work. I started tacking everything together. Here's where I finished the night.




I'm off for the long weekend, I'll do some more Monday night and post my progress.

 

[kiotiken]

I spent some time working on the new tank and conveyor last week, just didn't get time to post any pictures. I won't have any more time to finish it for a week or two.




Spring tensioners.


Starting the out shoot. This will give the wood 2' to straighten out before being forced up the conveyor. This will also allow me to grab pieces that are too large and throw them back in to be split again without having to fight the conveyor for them.


It's getting HEAVY. It may be a little tough to see in the picture, but those tires are starting to squat a little. I'd say I'm close to 2000# without the new tank and all that fluid.








New vs Old

 

[woodchipper]

Nice to see your improuvements Ken. Still following your build with interest.
I hope you hydraulic issues will soon be something from the past... Your new jumbo tank will certainly alleviate your over heating issue! Are your connections done, so you could do a test run before going any further into your build?

 

[Wild Bill the 2nd]

One thing that I see that is concerning is the outfeed section. I'm wondering if splits will jam into the sides that taper in. You may already know that it's ok since you've already run yours.

We decided to narrow things up by funneling things vertically. Then we will be adding the wings to the conveyer as well. This is all in theory however, we still have not made any further progress...

Tried to add image from my phone and the app keeps crashing.... Here.