Floating top link on a box blade?

[Riptide23]

I have a box blade for driveway maintenance, but I've gotten mixed results, mainly due to how the blade pitches down as the tractor pitches up when driving over bumps and piles of stone. I've been contemplating buying a tow-behind box blade instead...

After using my brush hog the other day and observing how the floating top link allows a limited amount of float for the mower to follow the ground contour independent of the tractor, I got to thinking about how an added floating top link might allow the box blade to work better in grading out the stone.

Anybody ever try this? Is there something fundamental that I'm overlooking? (I often find out there's a reason why no one does something after I have a burst of inspiration, sometimes with spectacular results.) I might just disconnect the top link altogether prior to a run down the driveway.

This is cheap and simple enough that I'm going to try regardless, but would like to poll others first.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Diggin It]

I use a piece of chain on my landscape rake. Limits the down travel, but allows some up travel. That avoids driving it downward as the front of the tractor goes up on small rises, but lets it float as the nose drops lower. Seems to make leveling material work out better by reducing the washboarding.

 

[Tinhack]

I have a quick hitch and a stirrup as well as top and tilt cylinders. I put the stirrup on the top cylinder side (right behind the QH) so the "float" is available for all my implements. I'm putting pedal shaft seals on my Ford 3910 and will try to remember to snap a picture of the setup. Works great!

 

[npalen]

I have a quick hitch and a stirrup as well as top and tilt cylinders. I put the stirrup on the top cylinder side (right behind the QH) so the "float" is available for all my implements. I'm putting pedal shaft seals on my Ford 3910 and will try to remember to snap a picture of the setup. Works great!

I'm thinking that the "stirrup" is some kind of floating link? Did you mean (right AHEAD of the QH?)

In regard to letting the implement "float", it probably makes a big difference whether the 3PH is at a set position or the lever is all the way down letting the 3PH itself float.

Letting the 3PH itself float seems like it would result in some implements trying to "roll over" on themselves.

 

[3gunr]

Without a top link you will not be able to adjust the angle of the blade for cutting or smoothing , But if your just wanting to drag gravel for smoothing then that should work ok.

 

[Riptide23]

I use a piece of chain on my landscape rake. Limits the down travel, but allows some up travel. That avoids driving it downward as the front of the tractor goes up on small rises, but lets it float as the nose drops lower. Seems to make leveling material work out better by reducing the washboarding.

Hmmn. That might be a better idea. And as npalen states, the connected toplink prevents the implement from tripping over itself.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I have a box blade for driveway maintenance, but I've gotten mixed results, mainly due to how the blade pitches down as the tractor pitches up when driving over bumps and piles of stone. I've been contemplating buying a tow-behind box blade instead...

After using my brush hog the other day and observing how the floating top link allows a limited amount of float for the mower to follow the ground contour independent of the tractor, I got to thinking about how an added floating top link might allow the box blade to work better in grading out the stone.

Anybody ever try this? Is there something fundamental that I'm overlooking? (I often find out there's a reason why no one does something after I have a burst of inspiration, sometimes with spectacular results.) I might just disconnect the top link altogether prior to a run down the driveway.

This is cheap and simple enough that I'm going to try regardless, but would like to poll others first.

Thanks in advance.

Floating top link won't work. If you want it smooth, set the lift when you start a run and don't touch it and go over it several times. Or you can go painfully slow and work the lift handle You might do that the first few times to knock the bad spots down a little. Box blades carry dirt, so if you leave the up down handle alone, the dirt you carry will fill the holes as you go.

Bush hogs work with a float top because it has a wheel on the rear. If you didn't ever pick it up, you can leave the top link off. You need a top link on any type blade or plow to force the rear down. I use a chain floating top link on my break plow ... I don't think so, I know that ain't gone work.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Hmmn. That might be a better idea. And as npalen states, the connected toplink prevents the implement from tripping over itself.

Land scape rake is long and gravity keeps it down. A box blade will roll toward tractor soon as it hits the ground.

 

[Riptide23]

Land scape rake is long and gravity keeps it down. A box blade will roll toward tractor soon as it hits the ground.

Yeah, as I'm thinking about the geometry more, I can understand that happening. Thanks for this.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Yeah, as I'm thinking about the geometry more, I can understand that happening. Thanks for this.

A box grader works wonders.

 

[/pine]

I have a box blade for driveway maintenance, but I've gotten mixed results, mainly due to how the blade pitches down as the tractor pitches up when driving over bumps and piles of stone. I've been contemplating buying a tow-behind box blade instead...

After using my brush hog the other day and observing how the floating top link allows a limited amount of float for the mower to follow the ground contour independent of the tractor, I got to thinking about how an added floating top link might allow the box blade to work better in grading out the stone.

Anybody ever try this? Is there something fundamental that I'm overlooking? (I often find out there's a reason why no one does something after I have a burst of inspiration, sometimes with spectacular results.) I might just disconnect the top link altogether prior to a run down the driveway.

This is cheap and simple enough that I'm going to try regardless, but would like to poll others first.

Thanks in advance.

Is it not your intention to level said "bumps and piles of stone" ??...if so methinks you are moving too fast and not allowing the cutting edge of the bb to engage...one of the main benefits of having a hydraulic top link is being able to make adjustments on the fly...

 

[big bubba]

ignorant question: would draft control come into play in OP's situation? if fully retracted, would that achieve similar effect as float chain? what about a hyd top link? i'd never part with mine & 7' hd box blade, regards

 

[oosik]

I have a hydraulic top link on my M6040. Works very well for ALL my land engagement implements. LPGS - rear blade - ROBB First I lower the scarifiers and rough up the area. Raise the scarifiers and lower the implement just enough to clip off the tops of the humps. Lower the implement and drag until smooth. This works with the LPGS and ROBB. Rear blade can be a real bear to get a suitable finish. Rear blade is best for snow and cleaning out the driveway ditches.

 

[Tinhack]

I'm thinking that the "stirrup" is some kind of floating link? Did you mean (right AHEAD of the QH?)

I guess it depends on which end you're standing on.

Forgot to mention--The 3PH is all the way up in this photo.

Here it is:

 

[big bubba]

agree w/oosik HTL is the answer for fine tuning depth control for soil engagement implements

 

[oosik]

Honestly - my LPGS and ROBB worked pretty well with my manual top link. However - with the hydraulic top link it's so much easier and I can fine tune to a gnats eyelash. I use to think - OH, well - that's good enough. Now with the HTL it's so easy to go from that condition to perfect - never give it a second concerning thought.

If a prospective buyer could see the difference - there would be no hesitation about purchase.

This whole situation revolves around this. I'm 80 years old and DO NOT enjoy all the time/effort involved in fine tuning a manual top link. The stopping - dismounting - twisting the top link - start again - etc, etc, etc. The HTL allow you to make adjustments "on the go" and see the results immediately. It is one "tool" that makes a land engagement implement as efficient as humanly possible.

 

[JohnnyMX]

The EA landscape rake I have has the usual connection point for quick hitch l top link and an extended "slot" where you can connect the top link to allow for some floating. I'm still learning how to use it best, but combined with gauge wheels, it does a good job. I am never eager to remove the quick hitch to mount it this way, but I will if the job is large enough.